plinkercases

Well done and love the retention strap and sam brown combo.

Black Chicago screw sound like a plan and as to loosening as Richard mentioned you can put a drop of locktite (red forever - blue if you ever think you will need to open it again)

That's some piece of work i wouldn't want to conceal that (not that he could) definitely want his buddies to see envy and ORDER? Tap that market for sure... i build a lot for the airgun and airsoft folks up here. Nothing yet for the marker shooters. Lets see what you do next!

I was worried the degunker would de-decal but luckily not. They had actually been protected by the gunk.

So here is a before and after of the cleanup - not a tear down just de-gunk and de-rust since it wasn't seized or brown rust encrusted. Used Evaporust on some of the external removed parts and for the rest WD40 machine and engine degreaser foam a few times applied and scrubbed down and then finish a few passes with amazing "Corrosion Block" from a friend who runs a parts cleaning business - he has one of the few vapour blasting systems in Ontario anyhow... and a few new discs from College Sewing. I am very pleased that all the decals came up and the only wear is from the operator on the arm. so now back to the mechanics of the shuttle drive systems.... more will be revealed.

Classic stuff.. like looking at a live H H Hieser catalogue.

A classic clean design and execution beautifully photographed to boot! Well done.

don't need pictures thanks as I stumbled on this video specific to the 29K4 and also shows what the tolerance should be!

Can i see a pic of the long rack, pinion closest to the right and the bobbin carrier with with needle either full up or full down so i know how the go back in and will cycle properly? Mine plopped out before i could take note..

Yup.

Well as in say I know guys who would make a part for an airgun which is already available OEM and after market just to test themselves. I know guys casting and machining parts out of JB weld!!!!

I have a few friends who take this on as a matter of pride and rise to the challenge of " nah i dont think it cam be done...." and my thoughts exactly on trying to match the new tolerances of the worn out chasis. More will be revealed. Luckily it really is just a project machine for fun.

I got under the hood and found that the previous owner had also used thin brass strap to make springs/spacers to try to keep inward pressure on the racks and pinons. Perhaps the wear on the arm casting coupled woth the wear on the teeth just added up to a wobbler. I will clean the parts that came out and psot pics.. i also suspect the tolerance between the post on the carrior/pinion assembly and the hole they sit in has opened up as well. Have to admit the fellas spring system is clever and aparently worked for some time.. perhaps with some voodoo babying by the operator... it came you me running free and with a needle and loaded bobbin inside as if it was used up to the day they stopped using it so to speak. This my be a challenge I give my ecellent machinist friends.

How do I get the part out to get an eyeball on them? With no apparent set screw does it drive up from the bottom? I will tip her over and see what I can do from the bottom. Must admit not a reply I needed to start my day but I respect your experience. as fro College parts... the bobbins I order don't work and the tension discs were too thick fro the top tension assembly so I rescued the old ones.

So I have completed the cosmetic de-gunk and clean of my old patcher and now to get it sewing I noticed the old owner had installed a small/thin metal band as a sort of flat spring which appears to be there to keep the shuttle carrier stable and pushed towards the needle. Without it absolutely no luck picking up the lower thread and with it vary random luck. Without the spring the carrier wobbles more than I suspect it should so I believe the teeth on it and or the rack below are worn. I also believe there is to be a set screen on the lower front of the arm that appears to have been removed the hole has some more metal piece and filler in/round it (I assume to repair some damage to the tip of the arm). So how to I remove the carrier and rack (?) below and then confirm exactly which parts to order from College? it came with a piece installed that has the full round bottom (81953) and one in the box with the notch out of it (8605) attached to a part which look like either 82029 or 33513. I have not taken anything apart mechanically so I haven't put it back together wrong... its just seems to have been rode hard and but wet (and grimmy) Any guidance would be appreciated... it is so close to working! Murray

Excellent!!! Lets see more of your stuff

Lets call it a mock up... not even a prototype! I wqs on the phone with a sluggish son trying to get him out to sxhool while cobbling this together!

The machine is now mounted and almost ready to go so i cobbled together annild hand crank drill, a spring loaded pepper shaker, a paper towel holder/shelf thingy and an old thread stand and ta da! It really works. Last layer look like shyte as i re do it several times to sort out the final retention of the bobbin when the thread tension increased. I crank with one hand and tension and guide the thread with the other. I works! Doesnt need to look pretty.

Thats a lovely way to protect His Word. Well done good and faithful leatherworker!

No affiliation with seller but thought I would pass this on. On original stand but stripped down and driven by a clutch motor... has wax pot though! https://www.kijiji.ca/v-hobbies-craft/winnipeg/leather-harness-sewing-machine/1389989157?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

Just wow and awe

I bought my spring there.

They list the spring not the the slide/plate. Hence making one. I am seeigmng Henry this week and will ask him. Thanks.

Here is my final version. Wont really know how it works until i get the shuttle and run it back and forth. AND a question about the pin (screw?) that the plate spring is to engage to retain it in the box. Is it a threaded piece? Or a pin that can be driven further in? Right now it is too short to engage the spring. I tried a few SAE allen keys in the little whole on the fornt of the box but nothing engaged... however there is a lot of gunk in their which may not be helping.

And thank for the pictures and i think i will need to remove some material on my new piece which is currently square.