billybopp

You guys all had me in stitches reading this! Ok. Maybe that's a bad choice of words, but hey ... And no, bloodstains on leather or thread is NOT an added feature. It all goes to show that Murphy is alive and well in everybody's workshop. Bill

If the ring is valuable or meaningful to you and irreplaceable, I wouldn't risk it. That being said, Wikipedia says that the melting point for silver is over 1700F, so unless you have a very hot flame, it should be OK. Ian Atkinson has a video about hot stamping with his magnesium makers mark on Youtube, if you care to give it a look. Bill

A bit of philosophy: No tool is more valuable than the one that's used the most. If you wore out the old sheath by using it, that makes it pretty darned valuable.

Excellent advice from all three above posts. To add to DavidL's advice, find a few cheap but nice items at flea markets, ebay, or even lying around the house and study how they are put together, or even take them apart to learn how they are put together. Ask yourself why the maker made each of their design decision. Was it an engineering decision, aesthetic decision, or cost/time saving. Analyzing a few items that way will tell you a LOT. Consider finding a few patterns for free online, or buy one or two to see what others have done, and again, analyze their decisions. Once you understand this sort of thing, your own designs will come far easier. I agree with Jim, nothing beats hand-drawing designs for learning how to do it. Graph paper is a big help in hand-drawing and you can find it just about anywhere. When you are ready to do some computer based design, you'll find that there are a lot of advantages. Computer based designs can be done for cutting or carving. They are easily filed and organized without taking up physical space. They are perfectly repeated with every printing. They allow a level of precision that hand-drawing does not, although that is not always important. If you have a carving pattern, you can make a fresh pattern every time you want to use it by printing onto paper, or even better printer transparency film. By printing a fresh copy every time you want to carve that pattern, it prevents distortions from creeping into your work with repeated use of the same pattern. If you have a cutting pattern, there are a few options. You can trace the pattern into the leather to give you cut lines, much the same as a carving pattern. If you will use your pattern a few times, you can print it and then glue it onto thick cardboard, cut it out and use it a few times. George Hurst did a youtube video on this for Tandyleatherfactory. With time cardboard patterns can wear, but they are good for some things and limited use. Cardboard patterns can, of course, be remade from your original when they wear out, but that is an investment of your time. If you think you will use a pattern many times, it's worth investing in a laser cut plastic pattern. I've been very pleased with the work and pricing from www.blackriverlaser.com . The owner, Joyce is delightful to work with. Hi Im Joe suggested Inkscape, which is will probably do nicely, and the price is right! The important part, though, is Vector Based. It's the only good way to get nice smooth lines. Avoid pixel based or raster based software. The differences are much too technical to get into here, but trust us on this one. I managed to get an antiquated version of Adobe Illustrator that does all that I need it to do. If you go with Illustrator, there is an excellent tutorial in 19 parts on youtube by TastyTuts. There is a link to sample files which allows you to follow along with the videos in your own copy of Illustrator. There is not better way to learn than to do!! The videos are not leather-work oriented, and later parts not-so-applicable to what we do, but I watched them anyway and filed them away in my head as "good to know". When you are ready to take your earlier hand drawn patterns into the digital realm, you'll need a scanner. They're pretty cheap these days and useful for a number of other uses as well. I bought an all-in-one printer/copier/scanner and love it. You'll find the above-mentioned tutorials 13 - 16 useful. You can also find a short youtube video by Ian Atkinson on how to take a simple hand-drawn design into Illustrator, although it is a little difficult to follow until you've learned a bit more about Illustrator. The general principals should apply to any software you choose to use. PS. Jim. I'd love to take a look at your book! Where can we find it? I hope that helps more than confuses! Bill

Very nice work indeed. I have one of these in my project queue to be done. You could certainly have zipped through this project MUCH faster by machine, but nothing beats a hand saddle-stitch for strength and appearance. Sure, it takes a lot of time but it is a noticeable difference. Bill

Backing this sort of rived with a piece of leather or a leather washer as pictured is a good ides. The edges of the male or post piece are pretty sharp and can easily cut through material when stressed. Bill

Very nice work! I'm in the process of making a guitar strap as a gift for a friend, and LOVE the idea of deer-tanned hide for the lining. I know that he sometimes plays shirtless, so that's something I've taken into consideration, but I hadn't thought of deer-tanned. I bet that feels like buttah against your skin! Thanks for sharing! Bill

While making a test piece for an upcoming project this morning, I somehow managed to make hole in my rubber gloves without noticing and got a nice big dye mark on my hand. Off I trudged to the bathroom sink to see what I could do to remove it, muttering words that I dare not type on here. On the way I remembered that in a former life working with ink, we used to use a product called Dye Gone II to clean up, and went on a quest. There was still some Dye Gone lying around, so I tried it and it works great on leather dye too! It does leave a slightly funky smell on the hands that lasts a few hours, but takes the dye right off! I did a little searching online to see if the stuff was still around and gladly it is. One of the places that I found it is inksupply.com at $12.55 US a tube. Hopefully that will help with what I have no doubt is a common frustration for many of us leather folk. Bill

Word to the wise: If you intend to get irons in different sizes, stick with the same brand ... Or check them out carefully. I recently decided to give irons a try, so bought some cheap ones from China to see if I'd like them, and I did, although the quality was OK but not great. Then, I decided I wanted something in a little less SPI for other types of stitching, so ordered some Seiwas from GoodsJapan. When I got them, I tried them out and they are a different style and better quality. But I soon realized that something was odd: For lack of proper words to describe it, the holes in one set leaned forward, and the other set leaned backward!! I was floored .. It's just something I hadn't given any thought to! While I can adapt my stitching to work with either of these as long as it's consistent, it's a pain to try to adapt between projects!! On another note, I've bought a few things from GoodsJapan and have had good luck, however, you'll probably want to pay for the "standard" shipping rather than the free "economy" shipping. I've waited for more than a month with economy shipping, as opposed to a week or so for standard. Bill

Really nice work! How do you do the leather covered snaps and were can I find 'em! Bill

I make something similar to this in a smaller size as a beer can cozy. In my case, I use a French edger to bevel the edge of the round, and the bottom edge of the side part to about 45 degrees. It makes a very nicely finished piece. Full directions for this are found in Al Stohlman's "The Art of Hand Sewing Leather" which can be found at Tandy and other places.

Mike! Thanks for asking about this! It's something that I've been struggling with as well for some time. Bruce, I'm looking forward to your tutorial! Something that you might want to consider adding to it, or making another tutorial about is choosing and buying edgers / bevelers. There's a tremendous variety of types and sizes out there, and it's quite a task figuring out which one does what and which to use in different circumstances. Thank you both! Bill