25b

I don't get it...are those supposed to be "challenge coin" holders? If so, just google leather challenge coin holders, then click on "images" and you'll find plenty of designs to copy. If you're making them to sell though, it would be better to come up with your own unique designs on your own...

You should look up rope cases...they're probably similar in shape and size to what a snare drum case would be...might give you some ideas for decoration.

There's the Leather Crafter's and Saddler's Journal, but I personally think it is extremely overpriced and boring. You could order an issue from them and see if it's something you might like and then order a subscription if so.

I don't care for straight stitching like that (vs. slanted stitches), but that's just personal preference. Also, it looks like your thread may be slightly too big for the SPI you used...and I'd probably use a higher SPI for wallets. The stitch line looks a bit too close to the edge. And I'd probably have put a crease line around the closure tab, but again that's all just personal preference. If you like it, that's all that matters.

Yeah, you and everyone else. lol

That tandy punch is a piece of garbage...the one I had broke when punching very thin leather...like 1mm or less. The part punches the hole broke through the back side of the punch where it'd been brazed / soldered in. Worked fine for about a month or two of light use and then broke as described above. Buy one if you want, but don't say no one warned you they were junk when it breaks.

Many (probably most, if not all) of your questions can be answered by doing a search on here. http://lmgtfy.com/?q=site%3Aleatherworker.net+%22stiching+pony%22+or+%22stitching+horse%22 You keep telling everyone to be nice to you because you're new. There's no reason people shouldn't be nice anyway, but it's appreciated when folks make an attempt to find information on here by searching first. It gets old answering the same questions repeatedly.....so much so that I generally won't answer at all anymore if it's been already been asked and answered to death here.

You did. http://lmgtfy.com/?q=site%3Aleatherworker.net+make+bag+6+minutes

What does the inside look like??

Have you watched all of Nigel Armitage's pricking iron review videos? Anyone contemplating purchasing these tools really ought to watch all of them first. It should answer pretty much all your questions.

This is quite true...I'm finishing up a ranger belt for myself and cut it from bridle back outside (black) and the inner layer is chestnut veg tanned tooling leather, also from the back...and it's beautiful. Now I think I am spoiled and will only use bridle backs for other things I make. Maybe not, but wow, does it really burnish nicely!!! Just wonderful to work with. Mine came from Wickett & Craig, but I know Herman Oak makes great leather too.

Good luck...they don't really lose their value, so I doubt you'll save very much vs. just buying them new. I've put WTB on here for them too before and instead of responding to my WTB, people just put up their WTS post for their used irons at close to new prices...so I just gave up and buy them new now so I'm not chancing buying someone else's failed attempts at sharpening / polishing them.

I use 207 for belts and collars...I am sure it would work well for holsters too. It is like rope compared to the V69 and V92 I use to make my military tactical gear.

http://store.ryansproducts.com/3gibustst.html

I've heard those are great if you can find one for sale... I really appreciate your sharing your knowledge with us here...the only way to get better (in my opinion) is to learn from others that are clearly better than I am...which is definitely the case here...

Oh, well it definitely looks great no matter how you do it... Curious which skiving machine you use...I am working on getting one to use here too...

On projects where you need to skive the edges, do you skive them by hand or do you have a skiving machine? Judging by the rest of your awesome work, I am guessing it is by hand, but was curious about that...

The unfinished edges on the brown ones really degrades the quality, in my opinion.

...you are skiving the edges before you turn it over to sew the flat seam......right??

Yay!

Never heard of it. Is there a website about the event? I probably wouldn't go...I try to stay as far away from DFW as possible. I'm closer to Houston.

Well...I usually install elastic like that into 1000D Cordura, but...you can sear the edges to keep them from unraveling...then, saddle stitch it on if you don't have a machine. I am a strong proponent of saddle-stitching areas that are visible...primarily because I am a very vain person and I want people to ask me if I machine stitched it due to how good it looks so I can tell them, no...I saddle-stitched it by hand. But I digress... The best way would probably be to stitch it onto the pigskin liner so that the stitching isn't visible from the outside. Rivets would be ok too, I think...up to you whether you want to just go through the liner or all the way through, but if the rivets will not pull through the liner, I would just go through the liner. The elastic will stretch a bit over time...best way to counter it is to make it a snug fit so it takes a little effort to put the items in, at first. Then after a while, the fit should still be ok when it stretches. Since it will be inside the pouch, it won't break down due to UV, so the elastic should last a good long time for you. Give it a shot...I think it will work well for you...

Can't answer that without knowing what you want to make...tooling or no tooling, etc. Many people have asked this question on here multiple times, so you'll probably get some good info if you search with the search box at the top right... In fact, here... http://bfy.tw/1MYu

You can use the elastic for your wallet too...just make that particular slot wider and maybe put in a vertical piece of elastic to keep it from sliding all the way down... Pockets are great, but in many cases they are just another (smaller) black hole for your stuff to go into...

Instead of a pocket, I probably would've gone with different sized elastic loops stitched to the back panel for organization...keeps stuff from rattling around, easy to retrieve and replace items... Don't know a good way to get around the exposed edges on your pocket design unless you were to skive them and do turned edges on those parts...