mikesc

No..to both your questions.. But, you can make a "lining bag" sewn to it out of veg tan, or you can add stiffener poly( ethylene or urethane ) panels to do the same.. You could even sew stiffener to each piece of your chrome tan, and then assemble your bag..and add another liner from other leather or textile.. Search the forum for various "how tos" by Brian "RockyAussie"..he's done some posts explaining ( with pictures ) how to stiffen bags.. Not chrome tan leather bags, , but the principle and methods are the same. if you only wanted your leather to get a little stiffer, you could paint onto the inside with PVA glue or similar, when it dries you'll gain some stiffness, but it will eventually soften again.

Sorry, no idea..but I love that machine :))

Denim is cotton..a piece of an old cotton tee-shirt is soft cotton..

cheifjason did indeed mention "drill press" and "drilling"..the latter word would indeed normally mean that he made his awl "rotate"..which would be what you were referring to..and as a "technique" would be weird, because you don't need to rotate an awl to make it make a hole..But maybe that was a "slip of his keyboard"..or maybe he does rotate the awl with the drill ? :)) Yes, we ( members ) all know the "mechanics"..But I'm also thinking of those reading / lurking ( now and / or in the future ) who are not / may not be aware of the "mechanics"..So..when posting..I tend to "spell it out"..for the "invisible audience", who come here because what to us is now ( because we have learned and gained experience ) "second nature"..may well be to them..entirely new..

But Rob..sewing machines don't drill holes.the needle does not rotate, it just goes up and down, piercing , like an awl does..except that an awl does it from side to side ....and the drill press is used just to hold the awl..and press..up and down..not to drill.. No one mentioned drilling..just using the drill press or the sewing machine, to hold something to make the holes with..in one case an awl..in another a needle..both of which are only "cutting" at their points..and both where they the get wider..are smooth, so after the initial "cut" they would both only spread the leather, just like hand sewing with an awl.. An arbour / arbor press ( if you could fit an awl or a needle into it ) would do just the same.. If you have to only push the awl in enough for needle clearance..then using a needle, in a machine..would seem to be ideal..as long as the needle that you used to pierce was not waaaay larger than the needle that you were threading..and an awl gets no larger when used in a drill press than it does when used in your hand.. Pliers, stitching irons, or punches on the other hand..do go "right through".. I agree with Fred.. Btw..Despite what many people think ..LVMH and Hermes do use a lot of sewing machines in what they make..I have seen work being done in their ateliers..some is hand sewn, but not nearly as much as they are happy for you to believe, there is tradition, and there is "woo"..I also have video recordings from broadcasts on French TV filmed inside their ateliers ..With their permission..showing them using far more machine work in assembly of their bags etc than people believe..They don't try to mislead anyone..But a lot of people read that the saddles are majority hand sewn, and some of the parts of some of the bags..and then extrapolate to, "all of it is"..Nothing could be farther from the truth.. I've thought in the past about posting those videos, but they are copyright to the French TV companies and to the LVMH and Hermes companies..so I have not..nor will I without their permission..One of them shows a member here, meeting an independent French saddle maker ( no connection with LVMH or Hermes ) ..in the USA.. I'll have to look again at the videos to get the name of the member here.. ps..At the risk of being "heretical"..Stohlman was very very good, but people have been doing leather work for centuries before him, again he was very very good, but his is not the only way..nor is his "word" on techniques, the only word on techniques.. I was reading a book earlier today that pre-dates him by nearly half a century, and covers almost all of what people tend to attribute to him..he didn't claim to be the last word, nor to have invented most techniques, but many seem to think he did both invent most of them, and to be the definitive word.. Kind of like "Sheridan", which is based very very heavily on the designs and patterns and techniques from Mexico and from Spain and from North Africa, and from Persia ( modern name Iran ) ..the influences from the Arab countries is why there are no people or animals etc in "Sheridan", because the principal religion from the countries where the "style" originated from, forbids depicting people, animals or other "animate" beings..But does not forbid depicting Plants..Which is what "Sheridan" depicts..It isn't "Western"..it is "non figurative leather decoration" based upon traditional Moorish / Persian designs and decorations..and some of theirs, came from the Greeks..either via Persia..or ..from Persia to Greece..Lot of "similar" work In some Mandalas from Asia too..

Btw..if buying leather from France..be very careful buying what you think would be "crust".."crust" translates as "croûte"..if you are translating "word for word".. But.. "Croûte de cuir"...means a "split"..and not the outer part left after splitting with the "good side".. it means the kind of splits that you see in low grade leather belts and that gets used for stiffening.. The good part left after a split..That is the "Fleur de cuir" ..and because it is usually used to describe the "top layer" of skins that have been split either multiple times , or split thin, it can be fragile ..Especially in Lambskin, Sheepskin and Goatskins.. Cow skins and Buffalo etc ..not so much..it can also be used to describe fairly thick good ( usable for carving ) skins / hides..

Woah..Ray..why take offence..all I did was say that logically piercing with a needle would be the same as piercing with an awl..because they are both only pointed at the ends, the rest of the shaft of each of them spreads the hole without cutting it..so your description of why an awl is better than a needle, doesn't make it "better", because that accurate description of what happens, also fits what happens with a needle.. You said up there "I think there needs to be some clarification."..but if you thought about it ..your "reason" fit both pre-piercing with an awl..and pre-piercing with a needle ( be it in a chuck or a machine ) ..especially as in both cases, after the pre-piercing, you then push a needle and thread through the holes that you made.. For me you just had a "doh" moment ( maybe posting tired ? ) ..like we all do..:) I read what you wrote, thought about it..and thought "wait a minute"..the two things are doing the same to the leather...and said so..it was not "opinionated"* any more than was your " clarification", no offence was intended. We all have our own "opinions"..but surely logic and experience count more than just "this is my opinion"..otherwise we'd be saying things like "in my opinion, you can make good solid working horse saddles from lambskin"..which wouldn't be true, nor would it be logical..and experience would prove that you can't. What you wrote wasn't what I "believe to be an error"..it was an error( we all make them ) ..it makes no sense..and experience proves it..why take it personally..Your advice is normally spot on, that one re "holes" surprised me.. :)

Why would that be the case ?..The tip of a leather needle cuts, as does the tip of an awl, but the rest of the leather needle is smooth, and forces the hole apart, as does the rest of an awl blade.So..logically, the holes made by both would close up the same way.. Example..if I take your phrase and substitute the word "needle" for the word "awl" like so.. "When it is pressed through the leather, only the tip cuts, then the needle tapers out but it is not sharp, it doesn't cut. It only EXPANDS the hole" That description of the action fits precisely that of a needle, and of an awl.. If a "needle" ( machine ) did not allow the hole to close up again..then neither would using a "needle" ( in hand sewing ) after the initial piercing with an awl.

Don't thank me..It was Trox and Constabulary who made it possible..I just knew where the thread was.. :)

Go to this thread..scroll down to Constabulary's post..they are now hosted here at leatherworker.net ..Trox kindly supplied them.. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/49326-juki-tsc-441-manual-and-part-list-download/ HTH :)

50,000 ..fifty thousand what ? ..currency ? ( which ? ) skins / hides..if the latter sq feet totals or sq metres..all skins ? or by type species ? The leather market in France is worth approximately 4 billion Euros per year..that is apparel, shoes, sacs, luggage..etc ..that does not include industrial uses ( joints in pumps etc etc ) ..if you mean 50.000 USD or the equivalent in Euros per year ?..that is not much at all to even the "medium level suppliers".. Try this search string in Google..copy and paste ..don't bother with " marks.. leather market world wide spend by country The market also breaks down further by type of leather sold / used.. I deal with mainly lambskin tanneries..a few suppliers of exotics..some cow, calf and buffalo ( not bison ) .. When I was designing and importing finished leather goods from "Asia", I was moving well over your figure " white labled" ( my brands ) ..my suppliers were trading into the west in 10s of Millions of Dollars / Euros worth per year, to big name brands ( apparel, shoes, sacs and accessories ) and "couture brands" ..50K per annum ( presuming you are referring to "gross spend" is "hobby level".. In the UK..almost all the apparel and footwear comes finished out of Asia or Europe, and a lot of what claims to come out of Europe is in fact white labled out of Asia..In my main area there are only a handlfull of actual genuine "made in UK" UK "makers"..the rest are importing made to order and either adding lables or stamps..or in many cases ( same applies to the USA , and to a large degree France, Italy Germany , Poland etc ) having items shipped fully finished in Asia pre labled made in UK / USA etc ..or the lables come separately shipped first..and the goods with no lables about "country of origin/ manufacture"shipped separately..but with size lables already in place ...."sewing in" of the "made in" happens in destination country..In many jurisdictions, the act of "sewing in" and or re-packaging, makes this practice legal..Usually around 5% "local" input makes it legal to say "made in". There are various trade sites that you can find which will show you just how much leather is moved by country, worldwide..as wet blue,raw skins for tanning, veg tanned skins or other stages..some have their info publicly available, some require joining with industry credentials or business registration, some of the world's leather trading platforms in particular are interesting..Bu then you are talking thousands , tens of thousands or hundreds of thousands of skins, everything from shark , croc, snake, to lamb, cow , buffalo etc. Almost every country has it's associations that you can join if you are a business,( will cost you though ) lots of info for members which is not released to the public. HTH Btw..shipping internationally from the UK is expensive..not as much as shipping from France..but still..So..and especially in the light of the Looming Brexit. IIWY..I'd begin in the UK ( Your home ground according to your profile info ) ..and consider "abroad" later, also bearing in mind that in almost all cases "abroad" get their leather ( all types ) cheaper than you do / can in the UK..There are a few exceptions, I deal with at least one of them in the UK, but they are long time established and their leather comes from North Africa..and they are "niche"..

Funnily enough, I know a guy who makes traditional bagpipes, he hand sews the bag..but has a walking foot machine just to punch the holes in the two parts ( which will be joined at the seams ) simultaneously ..in advance.Says it saves him a lot of time, and a lot of fiddling about with awls..He has shaped certain needles to replicate the holes that awls would make..

Same "pigs tails" exist on the Bobbin cases of Singer 20U zig-zag..Controls the thread better when the needle is moving over a large needle oscillation amplitude, as in some walking foot cylinder arms with horizontal axis spinning (as opposed to oscillating ) bobbins, some or zig-zag machines with large "bight" capability.When you think about it, a needle feed is a zig-zag with the feed dogs parallel to the oscillation*..as a opposed to at 90° to it. * Yes they also are moving up and down, but that would make the sentence too complex.. :) They'll work if you don't feed the thread through that "pigs tail" in some cases..and in others they'll work better if you do..In some cases on zig-zag machines, certain stitches ( such as when sewing straight lines ) will recommend not passing the thread through the "pigs tail"..If you do the stitching will still work, but the stitches will be less straight..they'll look more like "the slant" that you get with hand sewing..This can be an advantage. depends on experimentation, and what you want the result to look like.. Btw..getting the bobbin rotation direction correct is important...more so than in many other types of machine bobbin holder systems.

Usually..yes..However you can make life simpler by getting another bobbin case or two and adjusting each of them to use a specific thickness of thread in their bobbin.. So.. one bobbin case for 69..for when you use 69 on the top and bottom one bobbin case for 92..for when you use 92 on the top and bottom one bobbin case for 138...for when you use 138 on the top and bottom That way you'll only have to adjust the top when you switch thread thicknessess If you want to run 207 occasionally in the top ( the machine may not like it..except occasionally* ) then you run 138 in the bottom, because there may not be enough clearance for 207 in the bottom..the machine specs or manual will tell you the bottom bobbin thread max size.. Adjusting top tension is not complex, won't take you long when you change threads, just be careful about your thread paths on top and make sure that the thread is properly between the tension discs and through the check spring. *The machine may not like running thicker than 138 in the top at all..if that is the case, don't force it..Just accept that with this machine that you cannot go higher..You'll be getting more machines later ;)

I saw this thread..was intrigued by it..did a little research..found this.. https://theleathercrafter.wordpress.com/2015/03/08/in-depth-review-accademia-riaci-firenze-bag-making-course/

Funny the things one doesn't miss at all :) ..left the UK for good in 87.. :)) I remember that video by Harry..I remember thinking if he welded a really solid reinforcement flange into the "crook" of the "elbow" of the lever..and bolted the thing down to a bench with some additional weight low down ..it would be a useful bit of kit..resembles a stronger tee-shirt transfer press ( another tool, that I have here in "the collection" ) in many ways..minus the "hot bits"..

Thanks for spotting that Chris :) ..I'm cooking dinner whilst posting ( that is what comes of being in France ) ..Not my site here..( belongs to Johanna, we are her guests ) but if it were one of mine, that kind of spamming would have got a pm about businesses that offer no help, no advice, just spam and a suggestion to either become a supporter..or buy some ads ..any subsequent of what I consider ( again just my opinion ) "abuse of hospitality" would get an IP ban..any trying to get around such then would risk a "re-ranch to an optimess".. ps..I add all "HTML tags" to my posts here by hand..if I allow the boards scripts ( so as to see the interface where clicking on the various choices will add them ) my browser "crashes"..not Johanna's fault.. it is an incompatibility between my machine and browser "configs" ( Linux and heavily customised Firefox ) and the IPS forum software "push" system scripts..

It actually works better for SEO ( Search Engine Optimisation ) if that kind of information is not concentrated all in one thread, that way if the thread or it's page(s) suffers from any kind of "penalty" ( deliberate or otherwise from any search engine ) the site ( other pages will still show up for the search term(s) ..in this case the names of he various sewing machines.. My favourite(s) is / are what I use now..That may change..as other machines arrive "chez moi"..it is sort of like "Hotel California", they arrive..but none leave :) Madame mikesc has learned to accept this..applies to tools, brushes, welding machines, computers, many , many other things, books especially..:)

That is a cute sewing machine.. :)

The Sealey looks like you could weld the same kind of thing up from RSJs..I beams or C beams, or combinations thereof..some flanges, your bottle jack ( or a bigger one with more "tonnage" ), some steel plates and re-inforcers ( to avoid twist )..some lighter C beams or C section over 5mm, for guide channels..Hammerite*..few nuts and bolts .. Voila.."Bob est le frère de ta sœur." :) If you don't have a welder ( stick, MIG, TIG , Bottles, whatever )..you should..a welding rig ( and an "instant" black helmet and goggles ) is like a penknife, or tools ( hand or powered ) or brushes, ..or an industrial sewing machine ..everyone should have one, or two, or more..preferably more..or lots.. :) *May not actually be the correct spelling.. Nope..you need more beer..it is beer o'clock somewhere in the world..you are somewhere in the world..

@Stevejm1980..An observation..speaking on behalf of myself.. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/84649-tool-supplier/?tab=comments#comment-583851 my 2cts

An observation..speaking on behalf of myself.. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/84649-tool-supplier/?tab=comments#comment-583851 my 2cts..

^^^^@Stevejm1980..See my post in other thread here https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/84649-tool-supplier/?tab=comments#comment-583851 my 2cts

Just a thought, but you might want to approach Johanna about buying some ads, rather than spamming the threads..in the other thread that you just posted into, the guy in Cyprus said in his OP that he was only there for a few days..he's hardly likely to order from the UK whilst he is there for a few days then..and then be gone when the items arrive..there is "keen" and there is spamming..and then there is asking Johanna about advertising.. my 2 cts

Only the supplier would know who is where ( in percentage spend terms ) in their customer base..unless they give a buyer ( despite my being on good terms with my suppliers, if I asked any of them this they would rightly tell me it was "none of my business" ) access to the supplier's trading accounts.. You are better off asking , what type of goods are produced, what type of leather is bought, what quality, how much, what price monthly / annually ..