mikesc

cylindraceus is a perfectly cromulent word.

Whereas in UK English,( actually I think in any other country's English, other than the strange USA "variant" ) "suspenders" are what women wear to hold up stockings.. :) Btw..definitely not confusing Canada with USA..

No arms, for "work chairs" ( computers, sewing, leatherworking, whatever ) it is far better for your back to not sit with your shoulders "lifted".

You don't say where you are in your "profile", but presuming that you are in the USA Dupont list the places who manufacture or sell kevlar thread on this page http://protectiontechnologies.dupont.com/sewing-threads-manufacturers there is also ebay http://www.ebay.com/bhp/kevlar-thread

Personally, I would not dare buy ( nor dream of buying ) my wife an ironing board ( semi-pro , or not ) unless she said repeatedly that she wanted one.."practical" Xmas presents are what one buys for oneself, when thinking with your head. But, that said, if you also buy something "non functional" to go with it, like flowers, or something that says something like my "sig" here..then ... You might ( if you do buy her a "pro ironing board"..want to add to it, a "sleeve board" ( they are a small ironing board just for doing "sleeves" ) and a "tailor's ham"*, which is for ironing curves, like in princess seamed bodices etc .. *these are actually fairly easy to make, but can be bought ready made..and are very very useful to anyone who makes ( female ) "shaped" clothing..

Milk glue= latex ( natural rubber) glue..brand name that the Brits at least will know is Copydex..or "Blue Peter mystery glue".. Windsor and Newton or Daler Rowney sell it as a "resist" in art supply shops.. Often used to draw on water colour paper etc as a "resist" or mask..because it can be used for very fine details, you can use it in an "open nib pen"..the kind that many years ago ( when I was young ) we used at school and which had a porcelain "ink well" built onto the school desk top..The ink used was low grade "Indian ink"..the pens were scratchy.. If you have ever done any calligraphy, that is the same sort of pen, but when used for drawing has a "sketching nib". If you have access to any household ammonia ( be careful with it, it can blind you )..dilute it at 1 to 5 ratio..that is add one volume of ammonia to 5 volumes of water ( do this in a well ventilated area, with the air being pulled away from you with a fan or similar )..only mix up a small amount..Put some onto a soft absorbent cloth* ( cotton , lint free, old tee-shirt scrap ) and rub gently over the area where the latex appears to be just under the surface as a "bloom", rotate the cloth so as to present a clean ( but impregnated with your ammonia solution ) part of the cloth, you may get it out that way.. Make a test on a scrap piece of the same leather that already has your dye on, that will tell you if the dye reacts with ammonia even when weak..Another way which may work, without ammonia, try rubbing the affected area with a scotch pad ( the kind you use for dishes ), don't rub hard as they are abrasive, but you may be able to "catch the latex" with it..it will probably take off some dye and whatever finish you put on, you'll need to disguise that later with maybe more embossing / tooling or paint..emboss or tool dry ( yes I know that is not normally how you'd do it ) because a similar "bloom" can happen if there is a small amount of humidity in the leather when you put on any waxing or top coat.. You can usually get rid of the latter kind of "bloom" by doing as BikerMutt suggested above..warm the surface and use a soft cloth with a polishing action at the same time .. That kind of "bloom" can also happen when you work on a cold substrate..you can get it when varnishing / polishing wood..or in the clear coat when spraying vehicles if your air line doesn't have a dryer trap or humidity trap built in..or if the air in the spray booth is very cold.. Acetone would take every thing off..as Danne said..don't go there.. * If you have a clean microfibre cloth..that is more gentle than a scotch pad..try using it first..go slow, don't press hard. Some people use this stuff with very fine sable or artificial sable type brushes to mask out detail, it will gum them up and kill them eventually no matter how well they are cleaned out..IIRC in the USA custom painters can get it ( or something very similar ) in bulk quite cheaply as "spray mask".. True "milk glue" would be casein based, and is not the same thing at all.

I put the pages onto another HD ( not on this machine )..and forgot all about it, ( and of my "tax year" here,- business tax year, personal tax years are approximately May to May - and have been very busy too, I mostly look in and maybe post late at night ) so the translation is going to be late, but I'll get on it. The missing pages may well be the ones that cover where the bobbin goes ( I read through the pages very quickly and noticed that the missing pages were a "bit critical" to be able to thread it, but, we'll see ) I'll try and get it all ( the pages that Verc sent to me ) translated and assembled into a PDF with the original photos, up before Xmas hits us..

Yes.. :)Definitely.. :)

You might want to rethink that a bit, or wait until you have a 100 or so in place, before opening it up to paying punters ( 4 vids a month is two years "give or take" )..otherwise anyone signing up in the early months, will have far fewer videos to see than someone signing up 2 years from now ( and the "early birds" will have paid a total of £72.00 by then ( I'm rounding up the pennies to £3.00 a month there x 12 x 2 = £72.00 ) ..anyone who can do the maths, won't sign up today..and be paying a total of £72.00 to see 100vids...when someone signing up in month 24..will be paying only £3.00 to have access to all 100 vids.. Nice idea..and I like your youtube stuff ..you have a particularly clear speaking voice ..and you don't do all the visual "back flips"* and "zooms"* that plague so many videos..and there is no "evil music"* getting in the way.. *All "visual effects" and all "music" is evil on 99% of all videos..unless they are "music videos".. ps..I like the Bob Ross ( who just "free-wheeled" his videos ) and Tony Hart ( who rarely spoke in his ) styles of videos..but, I think you and most here are probably too young to remember either of them.. edit reason ..made a typo in my maths the first time , originally read £180.00 ( I was projecting over 5 years in the first draft ) corrected to £72.00..the original "wrong" £180..which BikerMutt "snagged" in his quote below whilst I was correcting..my apologies to you BM :)

Yes..what Uwe said :)

"Here" I had to order mine from the UK..otherwise 1" steps only..the main market here for "belts" appears to be for lawnmowers and garden machinery..or you can "order" one in half inch increments from a "sewing machine dealer", who will then order it from Germany or the UK , but they'll charge you ( take the money from your credit card ) when you "order"... at double or triple the price they ( or you , if you buy direct from say College Sewing ) are going to be paying.. I now have large stock of belts, ( I prefer the toothed ones ) and bungee cord to "bodge" with while waiting for a belt size that I don't have to get here from the UK. There is also the weird thing that belt size is calculated as the distance around the circumference of the belt, but the circumference is measured as being through the middle of the "cross section" of the belt ( so it is neither the inside circumference, nor the outside circumference ) , but for some reason, French sewing machine dealers quote the measurements in cm or mm ( despite most belts being sold as in "inches" ) and some of them tell you it is the outside circumference, and others tell you that it is measured from the inside circumference. So to get fewer "wrong size belts", it is simpler ( and cheaper ) to buy from the UK or Germany.

Some dyes which have "metallic salts" in them will react this way with some leathers, ( depending on the tanning of the leathers, and or the age or concentration, or quantity of the dye used ) or with other dyes..I've seen it happen more with black and purples, but have seen it with browns and reds, not much, if anything, that you can do about it without knowing the exact composition of the dyes and exactly what the leather was tanned with ( both "veg tan" and "chrome tan" as terms are actually pretty vague and really do not say exactly what was used, except that one involved chromium salts at an early stage in the process )..you could try various things ( like rubbing it over with a cotton pad moistened with a very dilute solution of hydrogen peroxide, or white vinegar at around 6%) to "mute" or attenuate the "effect" , but I don't think any of them would give an even result. You'd risk having a sort of "marbled" vaguely "insect wing" effect in some areas, could be usable, could be horribly patchy, you could also try rubbing very fine prismatic glitter ( the kind that is sold for Xmas decorations ) into the leather ( some black lambskin has the surface treated this way ) make it "sophisticated" or "festive"..a kind of potentially making lemonade from a lemon. If you know any custom painters and can get them to give you just a quarter of a teaspoon of "prismatic paint" ( it is very expensive when bought by the quart or litre ) that rubbed sparingly all over into the leather on the outside and then sealed could give you something very unusual. You could also "grunge" it, as above use either peroxide solution or white vinegar , but on a torn off piece of coarse natural sponge, dab it on, it should affect the dyed leather surface to leave a slightly marbled effect, do that in a few places ( work diagonally to make sort of marbled rough edged stripes about 15 to 20 degrees out of parallel to the short side of the wallet ), then seal again. If you are artistic paint a motif , skull or skulls or say a tribal tattoo type of thing in a contrast colour , or black around the middle line parallel to the long side , right along it.. No end of things that you can do to salvage it and make a "one off"..only problem then will be if it turns out "cool", you are not going to be able to be sure to get the background metallic effect every time if you get orders. :)

"Most" being the operative word..my singer 211 motor ( original motor, original table, original machine ) bought from new.. did not have that ( or any other means of adjusting the belt ) adjustment available, normal three point fitting to table..but single "pivot" bolt attaching the motor to the mount..if the motor was pivoted to fit available belt sizes, the belts either rubbed against the back end of the belt slot, or was waaay too "slack"( didn't turn the machine pulley )..the belt was badly worn, cracked and splitting, probably the belt that came with the whole set up from new..the "bungee cord bodge" above worked..2 months later I was able to find a toothed belt ( needed 1/2" difference rather than the usual 1" ) that fit.

Try "bungee cord"..the kind with an elasticated centre..wrap some around the two pulleys, so that you have some tension, mark the length that gives you , cut 10% shorter..hand stitch the ends together when they are butted together, avoiding as much as possible any "bump"..it will look messy..it will work.. HTH :) this "bodge" would never survive being run fast ( due to the difference between the driven side tension, before the machine pulley and the slack side tension, after the machine pulley ), but, as you'll be running it slow..it will work fine for as long as your stitching ( which joins the butt ends ) holds out..like using panty hose in place of a "fan belt" on a car..only this bodge can last for months if you stitch carefully enough through the braid that covers the elastic part of the bungee cord. The bungee cord should have a diameter which allows it to fit fairly ( doesn't need to reach the bottom completely ) snugly down into the VEE of the machine pulley..but which also fits "reasonably " into the VEE of the drive pulley on the motor..

Pomes de Touline "key fobs" ( like the ones I posted photos off in para-cord etc ) made from leather laces or leather cords..are a nice , affordable, quickly made item to add on a leather stand at "ren shows" or similar..especially with a little description as to what they are derived from ( anything "Frenchy" sells well, IME, "on your side of the pond" especially with the ladies ) ..You should be able to work out how to make the "knots" easily enough from the photos.

That is the kind of satisfied customer review that everyone wants..one can actually feel your pleasure in owning your knipknives there BikerMutt, brings a warm smile ..

Try a kilt..Heinlein recommended them too,.You can hide a lot of things under a kilt.

Rose knots etc are on another HD,on another computer, so, I'll have to track down which one, they are not all indexed, we took thousands of photos as usual when out, but I was able to find these on this machine, the photos are still as yet unedited / un adjusted apart from shrinking to post here. "knot yourself out" Pirate Day 2017 La Pome de Touline..The Apple of Touline. Decorative knot at the end of a cord ( approx 1/2 inch diameter cord ) usually formed around a small steel or iron ball ( to give it extra weight )..The other end of the cord was attached to the end of the "mooring rope" ( which was much thicker )..So the sailor could throw the "pomme" accurately to someone harbourside to then pull the cord and the mooring rope to a mooring ring or bollard. La Baderne..The Baderne Originally was made from old cords or chanvre cords , to protect wooden areas on the bridge and the rails from rubbing and impact by pulleys..Became more decorative over time..old badernes were placed as doormats in front of the entrance to the commander's cabin. The Artist's panel was hung on one of the booths, the text translates as "Buy from artists whilst they are alive, After it does them no good, and its more expensive" The 18th century Costume is being worn by a lady who makes authentic recipes from various historical periods, she makes the food, her mother makes the costumes to match each period from authentic materials bought from specialist dealers in old rare textile etc.They travel around Europe changing the recipes, the costumes and the booth decors each time. Not leather ( I have a lot of photos of leather in costumes etc taken that day ) but for anyone interested in "Ren Fairs" ( 18th century is not "Ren", but they also do true Renaissance recipes and costumes , we get a lot of authentic renaissance fairs here in France ), I thought these costume shots might be interesting?

If the stamps looked like broken ceramic at the break , they were probably "sintered"..bear in mind , not all stamps or other tools will stick to a magnet..most "stainless steel" ones will not ( although some "stainless steels" will )..You can make a lot of stamps yourself, bevellers, shaders, and grounders, camos and so on from stainless steel bolts, stainless steel bar, or engine valves ( beware of the ones with sodium in the stem end ..you don't want them ) .. a dremel and some diamond grinding bits, bench grinder, some files ( "checkering file(s) are very useful ) and some polishing pads and polishing compound for the bench grinder..and some abrasive paper 120, 240, 320.

Try leathercraftools.com They are in Japan.. Their stamps do stick to magnets..and are good..allow 7 days to 15 days from them to arrive ( USA customs delays permitting )..maybe a bit longer over the holidays. Special stamps..beautiful work..try arbalet12...member here..he is in Bulgaria..

OK..nearly 2.00 am Sunday morning here..so will be sometime during Sunday or Monday ( couple of cords of wood, I get mine as tree trunks around 3 to 4 feet diameter and and 8 to 10 feet long.. to cut shorter and split and stack Sunday, but I'll do my best to upload some "piratical" knots Sunday afternoon or evening ) ..

'Mutt and Flagship supply are closer to a realistic price..and even then yours looks nicer, appears more solid, so..I'd go for $250 to $300..the ones in France ( nowhere near as good as yours ) go from around the equivalent of $100 for "crappy" to around $250 to $300 for good..of course that includes the "made in France" ( well sold in France but made in China ) mystique cachet "surtax"...affects lot of tools ( especially leather working and fashion "mode" tools and items ) here.. The way I see making things like that is , price high and fair..you put your hands , your head and your heart into making them, and you always have to add some for compensation for dealing with people.. Jean Paul Sartre said, "hell is other people"..wise man ..

There was a "pirate festival" ( like a ren fayre ) in our village /town ( we are right on the coast ) this summer..lots of very neat rope work and knots there..many rose knots, loads of beautiful stuff..( and some very nice leatherwork ) I have some photos around, I'll try to find the some of knot ones and upload..they are not leather knots ( sorry , sometimes I canknot resist ) ..but, as a knot aficionado I think you'd like them.. Bretons are very very seafaring..knots are very popular here. There were also some very good costumes, and some very good authentic food made from recipes from the 17th and 18th centuries.

You are running creamjug on Joomla..adding a specific category should be simple.. Couple of things on your site are worth a"heads up" and your privacy page..which gives you the right to pass on any details given to you to anyone anywhere...hint..it doesn't matter what a "privacy page" says ..you cannot pass on details too anyone without written permission ..not in the UK..nor in the EU.. quote of your privacy page.. "Privacy Your privacy is extremely important to us This privacy statement provides information about the personal information that we may collect, and the ways in which we use that personal information. Personal information collection creamjug.com may collect and use the following kinds of personal information: information about your use of this website information that you may provide that is necessary for the purpose of registering with the website information about transactions carried out over this website information that you provide, that is necessary for the purpose of subscribing to any of our the website services and any other information that you send to us. Using personal information creamjug.com may use your personal information to: administer this website; personalize the website for you; enable your access to and use of the website services; send to you products that you purchase; supply to you services that you purchase; send to you statements and invoices; collect payments from you; and send you marketing communications. Where creamjug.com discloses your personal information to its agents or sub-contractors for these purposes, the agent or sub-contractor in question will be obligated to use that personal information in accordance with the terms of this privacy statement. In addition to the disclosures reasonably necessary for the purposes identified elsewhere above, creamjug.com may disclose your personal information to the extent that it is required to do so by law, in connection with any legal proceedings or prospective legal proceedings, and in order to establish, exercise or defend its legal rights. Securing your data We will take reasonable technical and organisational precautions to prevent the loss, misuse or alteration of your personal information. We will store all the personal information you provide on its secure servers. Cross-border data transfers Information that creamjug.com collects may be stored and processed in and transferred between any of the countries in which creamjug.com operates to enable the use of the information in accordance with this privacy policy. In addition, personal information that you submit for publication on the website will be published on the internet and may be available around the world. You agree to such cross-border transfers of personal information. Updating this statement creamjug.com may update this privacy policy by posting a new version on this website. You should check this page occasionally to ensure you are familiar with any changes. Other websites This website contains links to other websites. We are not responsible for the privacy policies or practices of any third party. Contact creamjug.com If you have any questions about this privacy policy or treatment of your personal information, please write: by email to mail at creamjug dot com " the days of directories who offer free listings , plus better paid listings for SEO purposes, plus give themselves the right to give away, sell or exchange your details with anyone..were over around two decades ago. some of us here have worked in SEO for longer than that..so such "enticements" make us smile.. I notice that one cannot see how much your rates are for a "paid listing" ..presumably one has to sign up, and thus give you details "which you think you can do with what you want" to see the paid rates ? No mention of who you think owns the copyright to any images or texts on your site..hint..it wont be who you think it is .. finally ..you are UK based..but your company details , or your website owner details are nowhere to be seen on the site..that is illegal under current UK and EU law.. plus..an obvious point.. the best leatherworker site is right here.. it gets massive SEO exposure. almost any question put into any search engine about leatherwork brings this site up on page one of any search engine. anyone who wants to can post on "show of" what they do..anyone can link to their site from their sig or their profile page. and we know who Johanna is..the leatherlady..

Interesting..here almost all pipe like that sold is HDPE..mainly because PVC ( can get it in "hard" or "soft" ) gives off some really nasty gases when burning, and HDPE doesn't..although "soft" PVC is sold as flooring, electrical insulation, soft tubes ( like in medical applications ), huge amount of uses, and when applied to cotton as "waterproof" textile all over the world and is what most inflatable pool toys etc are made from.The EU is more restrictive about it's use than the USA, mainly because of the Phthalates and outgassing ..We see HDPE more often in the rigid form..HDPE is what you have in "milk jugs" and other packaging in contact with food or water for human consumption .. HDPE is more dense..stands upto wear better, can support higher temperatures ( not much higher, but higher ), has better solvent resistance etc. A lot of people use HDPE bar ( or POM ) to make their home made mauls from.PVC in "bar" from is harder to find. If you use a solid bar you can get the "taper"* into the head which allows you not to have to lift your elbow so high ( the lower you have your elbow ), the less back and shoulder pain you get ) when striking the stamps for tooling. * You don't need a lathe to get the "taper" onto a bar of HDPE, you can do that in a bench drill with a sanding block..shaping the handle ( unless you have one already made ) without a lathe though could be awkward, re "don't need a metal lathe"..I think that the turned metal ( maybe brass ) on the expensive mauls is just for decoration, you can get the weight into the maul by using a piece of threaded bar as long as the maul and drilling the HDPE bar and the handle to fit the threaded bar..add a couple of heavy nuts and washers to lock it all together , ( and provide extra weight in place of the lead, lead is expensive unless you have some hanging around ).You could also drill and tap a piece of brass and fit that onto the end. Careful if you make a heavy maul out of PVC, for really "whacking" hard, when PVC "fails" it will splinter and shrapnel ( which is why it doesn't get used in fireworks and pyrotechnics anymore ) HDPE rips, less danger of any small "bits" flying off after a really hard whack on something.