Tina

A little tip...Put your new stuff in the "Show off!!" forum. Things will be moved after they've been there for a while to the right section by moderators :-)

Oki, I'll make a translation for ya :-) When it comes to slickers I'll agree to there's nothing here (Sweden/Scandinavia etc.) that's worth the money. If you're willing to put some money in to the best there is, check this out: http://www.leatherburnishers.com/ Ed is a member here (Ed the Bearman), I think it's his son that makes them. I do have them myself and they are outstanding, by now nothing I can be without :-)

Hej Anders. När det gäller slickers kan jag hålla med om att de som finns här inte är värt mycket om ens något. OM du är villig att lägga en slant på det bäst slickers som finns, kika in här: http://www.leatherburnishers.com/ ...Ed är medlem här (Ed the Bearman), jag tror det är hans son som gör dem. Har dom själv och de är helt out standing och inget jag klarar mig utan längre :-)

These are leaf liners (striped, not checkered) You make in-prints to the left & right of the middle nerve of the leaf.

I use Winsor Newtons yellow masking fluid without any problems (2 layers). I use it with both airbrush and hand coloring and it does not change the color of my hides at all.

Now, I don't use any of your brands which means I'm not informed about the color choises they have. To get a nice lavender in general use a light blue (delutet blue) or as Angelus have a "Blue Jean" and Very Slowly in small amonts ad some red. It will not take much at all. Then you delute it to the shade you desire. I would apply in in turns, one layer ontop of each other and let the surface dry in between until you like what you see :-) A little side note: Lilac/lavender is one of them colors that I have never manage to get nice after aplying it to leather. It looks perfect on the plate but gets a dirty, muddy, unclean look on the leather. I have almost giving this color up totally unless I have a very bright, pale hide to work with. Any normal to darker hide and the color will look crappy. Good luck//Tina

Här är 3 länkar som kanske kan intressera? Läderiet i Danmark: http://www.laederiet.dk/produkter/vistyper_dansk.asp?id=23&Uid=113 Boomsma i Holland: http://www.boomsma.nl/en/webshop/1/leather/41/various-kinds-of-leather Leather House i Danmark: http://www.boomsma.nl/en/webshop/1/leather/41/various-kinds-of-leather

You start with a yellow base and sloooowly ad a drop of red/or and pink to the mix until you're happy. Another way is to use a yellowish/green and then ad a drop at the time of red/or and pink.

The neutral is just an alcohol based deluter for the other colors.

There's no true white dye "out there". You have to use white acryllic paint. Use the acryllic paint in deluted thinn layers, many ontop of each other (and let dry in between) to get the best result.

My experience with black.... I'm using Angelus Jet Black spirit dye. I do have objects I'm using at home, more than 5 years old and still as black as the day I dyed them. I use their own Acryllic finisher ontop and I have not decteted any problems with bleeding either so far.

You just get a delutet, wishy-washy & in most cases uneven black. As far as I know there's no grey, true dye available.

I dye with spirit dye first then acryllic paint before neatfoot oil and sealer. The spirit dye makes the surface to paint on ideal due to the alcohol is cleaning away all fat from the surface and make the paint stick really good. IF I'm using red or yellow dye and planing to use white acryllic paint ontop...I'm making sure no dye ends up under the paint, it will show up thrue the white :-(

Angelus has both acryllic paint and true spirit dye. Here's a link to one of the places to but the real spirit dye, I'm sure there's more places but I love this one due to the pint size bottles *S*: http://turtlefeathers.net/text/angelus/dye.html

Don't forgett to buy a diluter (alcohol) so you can get the shade you want :-)

Now, somebody shoot me if I'm wrong...Fiebings oil dye is an alcohol based dye with oil in it. Which means you use alcohol to delute it to the shade/strength you like. To mix upp your own colors you need the Primary colors ie: True red, yellow and blue. These can not be mixed from other colors but is the base for any other color out there. Having black in your "library" is also most useful. If I remeber right from my earlier art classes you'll get black by using equal parts of the 3 primary colors. I did find some recipes online, try them out and see if it works :-) Navy blue: First, mix red and yellow together in equal parts to make orange. Mix one-fourth part orange with one part ultramarine blue. Since orange is the complementary color to blue, it will darken blue’s hue. If the color is too dark, add more blue. If it is too light, add more orange. Maroon: Maroon is a dark purple color on the reddish side. To get maroon you mix red, blue and a touch of black. Using primary colors the ratios are 8 parts red to 4 parts blue with 1 part black Dark Green: You can mix blue and yellow, with a tiny bit of black. First mix the blue and yellow to get the color of green you want, then mix in just a speck of black at a time till you get the green as dark as you want it. Good Luck and have fun :-)

There's several ways "out there" to help out...I use the blue 3M's tape (2 inch wide) in 2 layers, crossed at the back. I'm sure more tips will come in to help you out :-)

http://www.ohiotravelbag.com/PDF/P-214_Hardware-Finished_Goods_Catalog-web.pdf I don't know what sizes but, here's a couple of more pages from the catalogue; 66 & 96

Try HideHouse: https://hidehouse.com/products/ Write Designer Latigo 6-7 oz in the search window and just scroll down in the menu to white :-)

Ahhh...I see the smaaaaall dot now, I need new glasses *S*

I think this ended up a wee bit wrong, should be:1 oz = 0.4mm :-)

Here's one I use...

I have only used Drum Dried Latigo (7-10oz) and it's not toolable, nor can it be molded...It's very firm.

This one, just as the headline says :-) http://euroleather.no/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/The-Main-Techniques-of-Coloring-Leather.pdf