Tina

Depending on the dye color...Sometimes I dye the whole piece and then paint ontop except for red/yellow, they bleed through the paint, black works beautiful and I can even use white ontop. I'm using Angelus dyes, I have no idea with the Fiebing brand.

I would like to say no, this does not look like veg.tan to me. The cracks (whitish web on the surface) makes it more look like chrome tanned leather (or something similar). If it would be veg.tan the cracks would be "filled in" with dye as well if they have not treated it in some way to make it look like that...Which might be possible??? My 2cents//Tina

I agree with cybertrasher too..Angelus dyes is very pigment strong and goes a long way, make sure you get some deluter at the same time (denture alcohol will work fine) What I also like is the ablity to mix them as you want, get a whole lot of small glass jars :-) I get mine from http://turtlefeathers.net/text/angelus/dye.html they also have the pint size bottles, very good for colors you use often.

Hi and welcome to the forum :-) The contrast will not show up enough, I've tried and was not happy about the result at all. It get's (in my book) a look of a dirty tan color at best. What I did to get the pattern to show up on black was taking white acryllic paint and a painting medium/extender that lets the paint stay open longer (http://www.joann.com/americana-brush-n-blend-extender/prd35491/)...Then I carefully used it as an antique. Of course this could be done with any color.

Gorgeous work as always

I use to by from them a few years ago when I lived in the US (MI). I only bought hardware and tools and such, no leather so I don't know thw quallity of that. I always called in my order and had no problems but... ...I do remeber seeing something "not to good" in the forums here about them some months ago...Found it: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=34989&hl=%2Bstleather+%2Bcompany

If you ever try some spirit dye (Angelus or Fiebing brands as a few examples) you will se the difference right away. EcoFlow is just an acryllic "paint" that lays ontop of the leather (like taking some hobbypaints and delute it with water). EcoFlow is in my book a to bigger compromise for getting a nature friendly product out on the market. Real dye penetrates the leather deep and the colors comes out vivid and bright. The real dyes is harder to work with, ther's no second chance and one has to be more careful, it will take some practice but the overall finish more than makes up for it :-)

I know some people does just that but, I don't want my stuff going dark on me so I only use the oil after dying. I just very lightly dash a few sprayes from the water spraybottle before dying, it helps to even the dye out and somewhat prevents it from spreadding outside the area I want to dye. Spirit dyes are hard to use but the benefits in the vivid beautiful colors moore than make up for it. Good Luck :-)

Fiebings pro dye is spirit dye with some oil in it, other spirit dyes require a coat of oil (ex. pure neatsfoot oil) after dyeing to rejuvenate the leather again, that's the difference. Both penetrate the leather just the same Watherbased "dyes" is like taking some hobby paints and adding water to a slushy mix...Enough said.

I don't care what the labels say, IF I want to be sure that I have covered every little bit then 2 layers is the way to go (could be thinned?). The risk of missing some spots so the product manage to penetrate is too great to destroy any work in my book :-)

As I read the description it reminds me of the Latigo I use to buy when I lived in the US from HideHouse CA. I always bought the black waxed version due to it's beautiful shine on the grain side but it also comes in a non waxed version. This leather is drum dyed but not veg.tan. Very durable and it holds it shape beautifully, several colors and thickness's to pick from :-)

I'm using Angelus spirit dye and yes, it's alcohol based (without oil) :-)

I use the oil after dying (I'm using spirit dye) to rejuvenate the leather again... carve dye/paint oil (let it sit for 24 hours) resist - 2 layers (let it sit for another 24 hours) antiquing (optional) top coat

The antiquing needs a few (2) layers of a resist before using it. Resist as an acryllic finisher such as: Angelus acryllic finisher/satin or super shene/resoline to mension a few. Then have the patience to let it sit for 24 hours before using the antique. The antiquing will need some protection/top coat after drying.

Angelus brand makes a Matte acryllic finisher for leather and it's flexible...

It's always easier to get a more uniformed result with a brush if you dilute the dye (even more than 50/50 in some colors) and put it on layer by layer until you're happy. This is the time when a hairdryer is handy to use in between the layers :-)

I also use Angelus acryllic finisher, comes in 4 different shines: Matte/Satin/Gloss & High Gloss. I buy them at turtlefeathers.net because they have the bigger containers (pint etc.)

This is probably one of the nicest pieces of horse gear I have seen, thanks for sharing the inspirational pictures

I have found that 2 layers of the masking fluid is the way to go, it has to be thick enough and that's not easy in just one go. I'm also checking after the 2 layers to see if it looks to translucent, then I know I have to ad some more on those parts.

The masking fluid can be found in any good art store...Maybe even Joanns/Michaels have it? I use to buy it from MrArt online in the US. Masking fluid blocks of something that you don't want to have touched at all. When doing antiquing the traditional way you put a resist on top of everything you want to antique, then the antique paste after that. I always let the resist (super shene or others in the same category) dry for at least 24 hours and I do put it on in 2 layers. On the picture of the chamfron there is no resist under the brown, I used the antique as a color for the leather in this case, putting it on in a cirkular fashion to get some movement going on in the color. Then I airbrushed the resist and more antiquing over it to get those black lines in to the groves. Only after doing all that did I remove the masking fluid and then I air brushed the whole thing again with an acryllic finisher (I use Angelus brand of resist and dye) so I did not disturb the antique/paintjob by using a sponge/rag or brush. I hope this makes sense, I'm not the best to explain things but I'll always try :-)

Thank You all for your comments, it's very nice when you hear someone liking your work :-) Truth is that this masking fluid is not going to shorten your worktime, possible even make it longer but, the end result is going to be worth the hazzle using the fluid in my book. Cybertrasher: I have only used the art masking fluid but I know of others here that uses the modeling stuff and recomend it and I'm farly sure it's a very similar product and one can use either one of them :-) I have another chamfron laying around just waiting to get dyed/colored but ever since we moved from the US in to our new house in Sweden, most of my leatherwork has suffered...Right now I'm more painting walls and staircases, laying down floors and trimmings than anything and hopefully I can get back in the leather saddle by the end of summer.

What you need to block out parts of your project is an art medium called "Art Masking Fluid". Winsor&Newton and Daler Rowney makes one. This is a type latex fluid that you paint on to what you would like to block out and when done you just peel it of. It does not leave any stains on the leather. I use the light yellow collored one, makes it easy to se where the maskig is at. Clean brushes with white spirit...Paint2 layers of it on to the leather. I enclose a picture where I have blocked out every natural color leather that's left on the piece, then I used the old style of Tandys antiquing. To be sure not to disturb the surface I have used an airgun for the acryllic finisher. Good Luck with your project :-)

You will find it it any (?) art store with a fairly good selection...I think my bottle says Winsor&Newton...English brand?

Try using: "Gum Tragacanth", (in Sweden it's "Gum Arabicum")

You can for sure use Angelus spirit dye underneath and they also have a few acryllic finisher to (matte, satin, gloss & high gloss). I get them from this place (not anybody I know, I'm just a happy cutomer) but I know ther's more places out there...I love their big containers & quick turnaround :-) http://turtlefeather...ngelus/dye.html