Uwe

thanks for that video! It looks to me like the front to back movements of both feed dog and needle are just about right. It’s the up/down movement of the feed dog that’s not right. I’d recommend rotating the feed dog lift eccentric to have the other set screw seated inside the groove. It’s possible that both the feed lifting eccentric and hook driving gear have the wrong set screw inside the groove on your machine. The difference is that the hook driving gear can be adjusted to make it work correctly in either position, since you can “disconnect” the large hook driving gear from the small gear on the hook shaft by sliding them apart to rotate the hook into the correct position before re-engaging the gears. The feed lifting eccentric on the other hand can only work correctly in one position relative to the groove on the hook driving shaft. Remove each set screw entirely, one at a time, and inspect the tip. Make sure that the set screw that will rest inside the groove has the pointy or domed tip, the other should have a flat tip. Make sure you tighten the set screw inside the groove first, before the other one. The second screw on each gear with the float tip that rests on the rounded part of the shaft just adds additional holding power to the gear to make sure the main set screw inside the groove doesn’t easily wiggle loose. Since you disassembled the shaft, you may also have inadvertently re-installed the feed lifting eccentric backwards (flipped 180 degrees around the vertical axis) which may be a problem if the eccentric isn’t symmetric relative to the groove. I’ll have to look at my machine in storage to see which way the feed lifting eccentric is oriented on my machine.

In general, on Singer based machines the set screw marked with “S” is the one that goes into the groove on the shaft. Other manufacturers have different rules. Make sure you tighten the set screw in the groove first (to properly seat it,) before you tighten the other set screw. The set screw that goes into the groove also generally has a pointy or domed tip, whereas the other set screw usually has a flat tip. If you remove the set screws, pay attention to that when re-inserting them. You also have (or had) a loose set screw on one of the timing pulleys poking holes into your timing belt, by the way. What we really need is a video, not still images, to debug the feed timing. Take a short close-up video of your feed dog and needle moving very slowly, upload it to YouTube and share the link here (easier said than done, I know - it’s the price you pay for crowd sourcing help.) On many machines the key feed timing position for maximum forward feed is as follows: When the feed dog is in the very front and rising, it is supposed to reach the top of the throat plate at the exact same time that the descending needle and vibrating presser foot also reach the top of throat plate. If that’s not the case, you have to figure out which of these movements is out of synch and adjust that. Sometimes it’s more than one thing out of synch. Again, we need to see the movement to give meaningful advice.

Since you have both machines and can’t answer that question yourself, you don’t really need the small diameter cylinder arm machine. In general, the smaller diameter cylinder arm allows you to sew things that the larger diameter cylinder arm can’t (like small three-dimensional objects, whatever they may be - Barbie Doll purses, baby shoes, pencil cases, arrow quivers, etc.) Since you apparently don’t sew anything that the large diameter cylinder arm can’t handle, there’s no real reason for you to use (or buy more of) the small diameter cylinder arm machine (other than the fact that you already have one - might as well use it.) Many engineering compromises have to be made to squeeze all the moving parts into the small diameter cylinder arm (e.g. limited feed dog movement and stitch length, smaller bobbin, limited thread size handling, etc.) There’s no need to put up with those compromises unless you have to. Sometimes it’s the available accessories like binding equipment that makes the difference. Small diameter cylinder arm machines sometimes have better synchronized binding accessories available.

On my Juki LS-341 that button actually does work for both re-setting and popping (on many machines that button only works for resetting, not for popping.) The Juki LS-1341 may have a different mechanism. Using the hand wheel to pop the clutch puts stress on the belt, which may be a problem if the belt is not in good condition. You can also use a screwdriver to pop and reset the clutch, similar to what you showed in your last video. I made a short video to show how I use a screw driver to pop and reset the clutch. This technique might be useful in certain situations.

Some metal surfaces corrode over time and no longer move smoothly against each other - especially if they don’t move at all for long periods of time. Sometimes oil evaporates and leaves behind a hard varnish that acts like glue. I’ve encountered several clutches that were complete ceased up and wouldn’t release no matter how much force I applied. It took several oilings over a day or two to get things moving again. Heating things up with a hair dryer also helps if dried oil varnish instead of corrosion is the culprit. “Exercise” the well oiled clutch by purposely making it pop and then re-setting it several times. This will wear down any surface corrosion and get oil in the spaces that need it. Once the clutch pops in and out the way it should, test it once a month or so to make sure it actually still works.

Just a little fact check: The Seiko CH-8B is NOT a clone of the Juki TSC-441. They may look similar at a superficial glance, but upon closer inspection they turn out to be totally different designs. It seems Seiko looked at both the Adler 205 and the Juki TSC-441 to design a new machine that incorporates a few design elements from both Juki and Adler, and then added their own design elements. For example, the arm and shuttle design looks almost identical to an Adler 205, but the presser bar arrangement and top feed mechanism on the Seiko is totally different from both Adler 205 and Juki 441. The Seiko uses a rear presser bar arrangement that is offset to the side instead of in-line with front presser bar and needle bar, like both Adler and Juki use. Presser feet from all three machines are definitely not interchangeable with each other. Seiko detail (notice the offset rear presser bar and foot):

I’d recommend trying to get the machine working as it is before making any modifications. Removing automation parts is not always trivial and may have unintended consequences. You can ignore the automation functions but you may find it very useful, actually. there’s no need to remove the hardware unless it causes problems. Much depends on how you’re intending to use the machine. By the way, your machine is not a double needle machine, those have two needles and two hooks. Mitsubishi did make a double-needle version of this machine, so the manual may cover both models. Your machine is a single needle, medium duty walking foot machine with top, bottom, and needle feed. It’s not a machine intended to repair horse tack. The video below shows how this machine operates when it’s properly set up. It’s a very nice machine, actually. Also, please share what useful information your already found on the machine, like links to the manuals.

You may have to bend the needle guard inwards (away from the needle) a little so that you can properly adjust the hook-to-needle distance closer to the needle. Right now, if you move the hook closer to the needle, the needle guard would bend the needle away from the hook. Once the hook-to-needle distance is correct, bend the needle guard outward again to brush up against the needle right when the hook tip is closest to the needle.

(This is a copy of my reply to a personal message I posted before I realized there was a public post as well.) From what I can tell in the video, your hook tip arrives at the needle too early and it’s actually too far away from the needle. Maybe it’s the angle but what I see does not match what you described. In the bottom dead center position the hook should be roughly pointing at the corner of the casting as indicated in the photo below. Your hook is already half the way advanced to wards the needle. Also, it really looks like the tip of the hook is not close enough to the needle when it needs to pick up the thread loop.

I'm guessing 1950's. Pfaff started making the 145 in the mid-1930s, but they introduced the various H1/2/3/4 versions later in the 1950's. Hammered paint and formica pattern also hint at the 50's. I have a Pfaff table with that same spool holder, a heavy cast iron base and a solid wood top with nice wood inlay ruler. They sure don't make them like that anymore.

If the 10x32 screw fits both threaded holes, then that’s your tap size. That size very close to a metric M5, so that may be a candidate. Sewing machines are notorious for using oddball screws. Some machines happily mix metric, imperial, and custom screws. Some manufacturers tell you what screws size it is in the parts manual, but many don’t. If they don’t, they want to you to buy that screw from them, not from the local hardware store. Not sure what the foot pedal temperature question is about. If it gets warm during use that may be normal. If it gets hot, it may be faulty. If it catches fire, that’s really bad. Also, going forward, it’s good etiquette to just provide all the information you already have, like a photo, screen shot or a link to the parts manual you are talking about. Otherwise a bunch of people will spend time and effort looking up information you already have right there in front of you. A photo really helps a lot because we can’t see what you are looking at unless you show us. Sailrite apparently based their machines on the Thompson, so they may have some answers if you contact them (Sailrite.com) Best of luck with your new acquisition!

You can always replace the needle bar itself in case you can’t get that screw out. Needle bars are not expensive, but installing them is often a bit of work. Usually only one screw holds the needle. That second screw you see is likely just holding the thread guide in place - that screw should not need to be turned unless you replace the thread guide. I’ve used a Dremel in the past to grind a new slot into the broken-off screw to try and extract it. It worked, but the area around that screw wasn’t going to win any beauty contests. Buy a couple OEM Juki needle screws and replace them when they start to wear. Some people need to change needle several times a day, for others a needle lasts several months. Needle screws are cheap, even if you pay $2 each. Don’t buy the too-cheap ones - they’re likely made with inferior metal and are more likely to shear off. In general it‘s better for the screw to shear before the female thread strips because screws are usually cheaper than the part it goes into. Pictures are super helpful when crowd sourcing help. I’m sure it’s all obvious to you since you’re looking at it, but we don’t see what you see unless you post a picture.

Apparently there are different versions of the CB-4500 floating around different parts of the world. I have yet to see one with pre-drilled holes for mounting an edge guide. Can you upload a picture of the back of your machine where the guide would mount? There are lots of edge guide options available on Ebay and other sources. Common names include KG-867 and KG-967. You’ll need an adapter like the KB-205 in order to install most of the suitable edge guides to your machine. You should also consider an extension for the manual foot lift lever, since the original lever will interfere with the edge guide operation. If your machine doesn’t have pre-drilled holes, this video I will give you an idea of what you’ll need to do:

This video shows how that tab fits into the cutout under the throat plate and how things are supposed to move as you sew:

Removing the entire hook to adjust bobbin tension seems rather excessive. I'd go buy a suitable screw driver that lets you turn that bobbin tension screw without having to remove anything. Those little screwdrivers you can buy as part od a eyeglass repair kit at most drug stores work really well.

Just buy a bobbin case from the dealer who sold you the Thor machine!

Your machine uses system 135x17 (fabric) or 135x16 (leather) needles. Neither of your needle packs in the photo are the correct needle system. It’s probably best to just discard all the needles that came with the machine, seriously. None of the numbers on the package tell you the length, sorry! Needle systems are a science in itself. Search Ebay for “135x16 needles” or contact one of our resident vendors. Buy some of the correct needles and then adjust the needle bar height to get the needle position and timing right, as shown in the video above. Use the Consew 226 manual as a reference, courtesy of @Gregg From Keystone Sewing. Seiko built the machines and sold them under the Consew brand back then.

Your bobbin threading doesn’t look right, your bobbin thread goes over the edge of the bobbin case. You need to pull the bobbin thread into the slot of the bobbin case ( near the 4 o’clock position) and under the tension spring. Your bobbin threading is likely to cause skipped stitches and other issues. On the top thread tension unit, don’t run the thread around pin on the edge of the tension disks - several youtubers show this threading for unknown reason, but not a single manual that I’ve read shows that. Post some detail photos of the check spring area, it’s hard to tell exactly what’s going on there. As for timing, your machine is a very close relative of a Consew 225. You can use this hook timing video as a guide:

In general you want to look for parts without teeth to avoid the dreaded marks on the leather. Most Adler 205-370 I've seen already had smooth (tooth-less) feed dog and presser feet installed. The curved throat plates usually have some subtle teeth. I'm sure Weaver will be happy so sell you these parts if you don't already have them. You can also source high quality aftermarket parts directly from manufacturers like Kwok Hing (http://www.khsew.com/index.php?route=product/search&search=205). Shameless self-promotion: I make flat-top throat plates for needle-feed (UTP441-NF) and for use with feed dog (UTP441HM2) that are based on a throat plate design for the Adler 205 (my versions have no teeth and they also fit 441 class machines, hence the 441 name):

Your Pfaff 335 was made in many different subclasses, some of them with parts unique to a particular subclass. The attached PDF file gives you some idea of the complexity behind the subclasses. Generic aftermarket parts often only cover the common high-volume parts. Few aftermarket manufacturers bother to make low-volume specialty parts for rare subclasses. You'll need more than just the throat plate and feed dog to turn your Pfaff 335 into a different subclass. Here's the PDF file with details: Pfaff-335-subclasses-old-casting.pdf

The hole positions on the Singer 211 look reasonable, but I don’t have a 211 to verify. On the Consew 227, however, your proposed hole on the right is directly in line with the presser bar - NOT a good spot! My 227 clone came with three tapped accessory holes as shown in the image below. Those are obviously good locations.

Apparently a guy named Eli Schlabach is THE authority on Landis 16 machines. Eli is also the source for manuals and Landis 16 parts, for a price. Hopefully the contact info below is still valid. Member @shoepatcher posted the info below in another topic related to Landis 16: >>>>> You can contact Landis Sales & Service in Arthur, IL. Ask fro Eli Schlabach. He rebuilds Landis 16 machines and has parts and needles. He should have the manual and parts list. Their telephone number is 217-543-3464. Hope that helps. <<<<<

It looks to me like your needle is not installed correctly. The scarf of the needle needs to face toward the right, facing the hook. Your needle scarf is facing towards the rear on your machine (See screen shot of the video below.) Rotating the needle 90 degrees clockwise may resolve some of your issues. You're also missing a thread guide that is normally is attached to the bottom of the beedle bar - not a show stopper, but it will help with reliability. Also, just turn the machine over by hand until it picks up the thread reliably. Running the machine under motor power while things are not quite right may break something. This is how your needle should be positioned:

I keep getting requests for an updated link to the PDF file for the document "An Introduction to the Pfaff Numbering System" Here's the PDF file again: An Introduction To The Pfaff Numbering System.pdf Depending on how your web browser is configured, clicking the link above will do one of the following: 1. Open the PDF file directly in your browser 2. Open the PDF file in an external Adobe Acrobat Reader application 3. Download the PDF to your local device and you have to open it separately (check your downloads folder.) In case you have trouble opening the PDF file, here are JPEG versions of the pages: Hopefully this will help folks decode their Pfaff model designation. Cheers, Uwe

I made a video about this topic sometime ago, perhaps it will help: