Uwe

I believe that is the slowest maximum speed you can dial in. In other news, just realized that the SP-1100 motor is also available from @Gregg From Keystone Sewing with quick and easy online ordering. I'm glad to see that type of motor offered by additional vendors.

Turns out foot lift solenoids are actually a thing and readily available. I should have Googled "foot lift solenoid" a year ago. Here's one example of commercially available units:

I'd love to find out more about that solenoid you're using, @Gregg From Keystone Sewing! Is that solenoid an industry standard part that one can buy at Grainger or McMaster-Carr, or is it some specialized part that you by chance sell separately? I experimented once with an electric solenoid to make an electric foot lift but failed miserably. My solenoid was a 110V door latching solenoid. It closed with a BANG but wasn't nearly strong enough to move the foot lift lever directly. It didn't even occur to me that a 24V output in the controller box could directly drive a solenoid strong enough to actuate the foot lift lever. Perhaps the linkage levers increase the pulling power just enough. We should probably spin off the recent foot lift discussion into a separate topic if it's not too late.

I know it's been well over a year, but that output is used to control a solenoid air valve to pressurize a foot lift air cylinder when you heel the pedal.

There are a few modern servo motors out there that have very high power and torque and a very slow starting speed of 100 RPM (most servos start around 300 RPM). But these motors are hard to find. One US based vendor is SewPro, who sells the SP-1100, check this topic for details: I was looking for an alternative to the SewPro motors and eventually ordered some 1,000 W servo motors directly from a manufacturer on Alibaba earlier this year for testing. Turns out the motors are very nice and they even installed small 50mm pulleys for me at the factory. My main requirements were: 1KW power, separate motor, controller, and speed input components for flexible mounting, 100 RPM starting speed, 50mm pulley, needle position sensor option, intuitive keypad with quick and direct speed control buttons and a dedicated needle position button with Up/Down/Off modes. It took me months to find this one. I'm NOT planning to re-sell these motors, which is why I'm sharing the sourcing info here. Downside of sorts is you have to buy them in multiples of four motors. Shipping via air express was quick but pricey and a bit sketchy - DHL is just as bad as the other guys. Luckily all four motors survived the rough handling. Next time I'll order enough motors to ship them on a pallet via ocean freight. I have plenty of machines that need motors. Alibaba is really a Businees-to-Business marketplace and not geared towards end users. It's definitely not like Amazon. Alibaba works best if you have a sense of adventure, enjoy the occasional gamble, and have patience communicating with folks who's English may be spotty but is still way better than your Chinese.

I highly doubt there's a plastic tool box sturdy or big enough to ship a Singer 7 Class. I have a modern version of the Singer 7 that's still in the shipping crate. Here's a picture of it just to give you an idea of how to ship them if you care about the machine's survival. It's really forklift territory. No human will lift or move this by hand.

If the bill you're trying to fit is holsters and gun belts, then the Singer 111W151 isn't quite the right candidate. These kind of topics nearly always end up with recommendations of a Juki TSC-441 class machine like Cowboy CB-4500/Cobra Class 4/Techsew 5100 and other clones.

Just to clarify, the machines in the picture above and the CL ad are Singer 97-10 models, not 95-10. The Singer 95-10 looks like this:

Those are Singer 291 bobbin cases, not Durkopp 291 bobbin case caps. College Sewing in the U.K. has the caps: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/store/295001426-B_CASE-CAP-DURKOPP-N291-GENUINE The Durkopp 291 bobbin case cap issue should be a separate topic as it has little to do with 3-phase converters.

The Pfaff 463 Service manual ( 463 463H(3-86.pdf ) generally provides all the information you need to verify proper adjustments and make changes if necessary. Often the diagrams tell most of the story and the text just provides some specifics. Google translate often makes just as much sense as the official translated manuals. You may be able to fill in some details or replace words yourself because you know what part they are talking about by the number reference in the diagram. Then again, after reading the adjustment procedure for the bobbin case opener in English just now, I feel your pain! Even the original German version is probably painful to read and the English translation does not make it better. Translating the already translated English to Spanish via Google may not make any sense whatsoever. We have a few Spanish speaking members who may be able to help with a few specifics or explain an adjustment in a sentence or two. Just don't ask them to translate the whole manual. Your bobbin case opener is definitely out of position: Service Manual diagram: Here's the Google translate version of my own post, just to save you a few mouse clicks: El manual de servicio de Pfaff 463 (463 463H (3-86.pdf) generalmente proporciona toda la información que necesita para verificar los ajustes adecuados y realizar cambios si es necesario. A menudo, los diagramas cuentan la mayor parte de la historia y el texto solo proporciona algunos detalles. a menudo tiene tanto sentido como los manuales traducidos oficiales. Puede completar algunos detalles o reemplazar palabras usted mismo porque sabe de qué parte están hablando por la referencia de número en el diagrama. Por otra parte, después de leer el procedimiento de ajuste para el abre-cajas de la bobina en inglés, siento su dolor. Incluso la versión original en alemán es probablemente dolorosa de leer y la traducción al inglés no lo hace mejor. Traducir la traducción del inglés al español a través de Google puede no tener ningún sentido. Tenemos algunos miembros de habla hispana que pueden ayudar con algunos detalles o explicar un ajuste en una oración o dos. Simplemente no les pidas que traduzcan todo el manual. El abridor de su caja de canillas está definitivamente fuera de posición: Diagrama de servicio manual: Video Still:

I hope you got a good price on this machine because the seller apparently did NOTHING to ensure the machine worked right before they sent it to you. Consew themselves are providing help in all the wrong ways. If you're following the how-to video Consew posted on YouTube, then you're playing russian roulette with the bobbin case - it' may work if you're lucky until it suddenly and inexplicably doesn't. The guy in the video does not know how to properly insert that bobbin case into the machine and he manages to get it exactly wrong at the 4:10 mark By coincidence I had made a video about what to watch out for when inserting the bobbin case in a machine with a horizontal axis hook very similar to yours.

Your shuttle driver face looks quite worn in the needle guard area and the angled slope above it. Perhaps the needle comes down on the slope every single time and is deflected a large amount while it drags along the face of the shuttle driver. That constant friction metal on metal over a long time (and many premature needle deaths) may have worn your shuttle driver from a smooth face with rounded edges to a sharp knife-like edge that cuts thread. It's possible that your machine was somehow set up with a shuttle race back that is too thick, which made the hook touch the needle. Then, instead of installing the correct shuttle race back, somebody adjusted the shuttle driver position to push the needle away from the hook tip. But that's just a theory based on a single photo. To properly fix the problem, you may need to install the correct shuttle race back and also replace the worn shuttle driver itself. Installing the shuttle race back is relatively easy, replacing the shuttle driver may not be easy (I've not yet done it myself.) The parts may be hard to find and not exactly cheap. Plus, you don't even know yet exactly which of the seven shuttle race backs you need. At the factory they just have all of them available to choose from. Before you start ordering parts, make sure that what I described really is the problem. I'm just guessing based on a single picture and I've been wrong many times before. Here's the parts diagram again that shows the shuttle race back (the red open ring) that comes in seven different thicknesses. Juki uses it to set the hook position relative to the needle on the Juki TSC-441 design. Normally that's done at the factory and never needs to be changed. Here's another photo of my shuttle driver and needle from a slightly different angle:

Here's a picture with just the needle and the shuttle driver. The green area on the shuttle driver is the needle guard which prevents the needle from coming too close to the tip of the hook. That green needle guard area on the shuttle driver is the ONLY part that is allowed to touch the needle, very lightly.

If you want to help save the remaining Filson factories, shop here: https://www.filson.com/

Here are two pictures of the Pfaff in that Ebay auction, just to preserve it for posterity here on LW. Auctions tend to disappear along with their pictures. It's for sewing fur and other "hairy" materials, similar to this Bonis: They can also be used for sewing certain operations on shoes, like the modern Strobel in this video (with annoying music) . . . and Neoprene:

Lots of interesting machinery in that auction. Unless you can pick up items in person within two days of the auction closing, it's best to figure out shipping options before placing a bid. Post Falls, Idaho is REALLY far away from places like Atlanta, Georgia. I wouldn't count on the auctioneer to be of much help with arranging shipping.

Chances are it's not actually the throat plate's fault, but it's the easier and cheaper part to modify. The real cause may be the top of the hook not being as low as it should or the hook being too close to the throat plate due to a worn tip. The too-high hook could be due to slightly too-thick needle guard washer or the hook just being a tiny bit taller than the original. Half a millimeter or so can make all the difference. Make sure there's no thread bits stuck under the hook which may raise the hook's position a tiny bit when reinstalling. I made a video about removing and re-installing the Adler 67 series hook some time ago. The too-close hook may be due to a tip that was significantly worn. The hook may have been moved closer to the needle (and thus throat plate). On a new hook the pristine tip will stick out a little more and require you to move the hook away from the needle. That alone may open up the passageway between the hook and the throat plate enough to resolve the snagging thread issue. A worn and too-short hook tip may also require an advanced hook rotation to make it work, which in turn may bring a taller part of the hook close to the throat plate sooner than it should. It's all connected and sometimes it requires a series of fixes and adjustments. I've worked on machines that had multiple parts very worn and multiple adjustments made to compensate for that wear. When I install a new part that is to spec, things are suddenly too tight and all manner of problems manifest, setting off a cascade of adjustments and new parts.

It looks like there's not enough of a gap between the hook and the throat plate. It's possible tolerances of aftermarket parts added up the wrong way. The hook is not original but I can't quite tell if the throat plate is. If the throat plate was inexpensive, it may be worth grinding a little (with a Dremel) and polishing a lot to enlarge the gap where the thread snags. It's important that this area is very smooth because the thread needs to slide past it without catching a burr or any other imperfection. You want very smooth, rounded edges there, not sharp machined corners. The OEM and worthy aftermarket parts are usually carefully polished in key areas. I marked up a picture of a throat plate to show the area I think may need to be inspected and potentially modified/polished on your throat plate.

Beautiful table @thesergeant, love the wood veneer pattern. Your camera work is just a nice. Some shots look like they're from a special issue of Elle Décor: "How to decorate with industrial sewing machines".

My part has a 8.6mm wide slot in the CAD model and my printed version ended up within 1/100th of a millimeter. Here's a public link to my Fusion 360 CAD file, in case anybody wants to inspect it or tinker with it: https://a360.co/2PeQpnd (this turns out to be a very cool browser interface for viewing the part. below is a screenshot on my Chrome browser)

After spending several days testing, printing and exploring different slicing software (SLIC3R and Simplify3D) to produce G-Code, I managed to solve some key problems I had with my original 3D printer control software. My parts are now strong and precise. Unfortunately they still won't hold my YKK metal zipper. I dialed the dimensions to 1/10th of a millimeter, but no luck - either too loose or can't press the zipper in. Perhaps my parts are too rigid now. I had created a slight variation on the original design in my CAD program so that I could control dimensions of the part and the STL file precisely. I'm not a zipper expert and the zipper display at my local fabric store was quite overwhelming, and they don't even carry YKK or Riri zippers. My local Tandy Leather was locking the doors as I was pulling up - I think it was because they were closing anyways. In my experience, a single STL file can produce dozens of slightly different parts, depending on which printer, which slicing software, and which print settings you use. I couldn't even get my parts to work properly for one single zipper in three days, let alone for a dizzying array of zippers available commercially. It sure looks pretty in my Fusion 360 CAD software: So, kudos to @RockyAussie for inventing the part and actually making it work for his zippers, and thanks for giving me a shout-out. Alas, making a product that is suitable for sale is not as simple as it seemed at first. I'm not convinced that I can produce this part in a quality that folks would consistently be happy with, so I decided I won't try to sell them. I'm attaching the STL file (Zipper Guide low profile 8.6mm.stl) of the modified part I used (sized for my 8.6mm YKK metal zipper) If somebody can make it work for them, go for it.

A couple of factory fires and the occasional world war is what happened, in a nutshell.

I think you actually need the KB-267 adapter bracket (i still have some in stock) to install a KG series edge guide on your Consew 206RB5. The adapter provides just enough of an offset to clear the casting on the machine. Various swing-down edge guides have the same mounting hole arrangement and the adapters allow them to fit a large number of machines. Here's a picture of the KB-267 adapter:

It sure looks like a Juki LU-562 or LU-563 to me. The two are identical except the LU-563 has a larger bobbin/hook. Reverse lever is a good sign - that means it's not one of the odd "Subclass 3" machines without reverse. The type plate is normally just below the reverse lever handle. Ask for a picture of that area. They're GREAT machines, really, but don't tell the seller that. More like "You want how much for this tired old thing?"

I had typed an elaborate post and then realized that I had already said the same thing earlier in this topic. I can't delete my own post for some reason, so i just cleared out my own, superfluous post.