zuludog

You don't cut a centre rectangle. The wallet/card holder is made up from a large back or outer piece, and several smaller pieces stacked up and sewn together I think you've asked the same question in the 'How Do I Do That?' section. As I mentioned, have a look at Nigel's video; there is also a plan pack available. I have it, and it's pretty foolproof I bought some rather expensive Horween leather to make my wallets, so before I cut into it I made some mock - ups from card (old breakfast cereal packets) stapled & taped together to see how it went together, and what it would look like

Have a look at this YouTube video. It covers the choice of leather; construction methods; and shows how a simple design can be worked up into several variants, including the one you're interested in 'How to Make a Simple Handmade Leather Wallet' by Nigel Armitage

Hello Hugh, and welcome to the fun! You've made a good start by downloading the books, but before you spend any money there are a couple of other bits of homework you could do - There is a lot of information & advice available on this forum, especially the Getting Started' and 'Tools ' sections. Have a browse through, and you'll see that the sort of questions you might have, have been asked before There is also a lot of info on YouTube. There are videos on general subjects such as choosing tools; techniques such as stitching & edge finishing; and showing how others have made the sort of things you're interested in, like watch straps Remember that the same techniques are used on various items, like wallets, pouches, and bags. Even if you can't find exactly what you want, there's bound to be something similar

I used cotton buds for a while, but now I use a pencil dipped in a pot of Edgekote as an applicator. It's cheap; easy to use; you can vary the load; and once you've got used to it you can be quite precicse The technique I use is - always work from the outside onto the edge. Use a small amount of Edgekote and angle the pencil to cover the corners of the edge; then apply a slightly thicker amount to fill in the actual edge It only works well if you've already burnished the edge to obtain a smooth finish, with water, gum trag., Tokonole, etc.You can't get an even straight line on an irregular surface

I've always understood that the distance of stitching from the edge should be the same as the thickness of the leather. Thus, for example, if you're making a sheath from 3mm leather, that is made up from a front, a back, and a welt = 3 + 3 + 3 = 9mm, but the distance is 3mm This becomes more difficult as thinner leather is used, so in practice you might have to settle for something a bit wider if you're using, say, 1mm leather Stitching chisels might distort the line as you have described, and I can think of a couple of ways round this; or use them both in combination - As mentioned, make a wide margin then cut it back when the stitching is finished Don't knock the chisels all the way through, just use them by hand to make faint pricks marks, then make the actual holes with a narrow awl, such as an Osborne #41 or #42 Incidentally, I no longer use a stitch groover, I just mark the line of the stitching with dividers

As you can see from my profile, I make models, and use Swann Morton scalpels; they're very good The blades are disposable, but if you're careful you can re sharpen them a couple of times, and use them for less critical work I don't carry my modelling tools around, I work at my desk and keep my scalpels in an old pencil case that I stole off my daughter. But I have made some covers for leatherworking knives, though nothing as impressive as those you've shown These are the makers - https://swann-morton.com . The American (and other worldwide) distributors are listed on the website This is a main stockist, and will show you the various types of models, blades, etc that are available- https://scalpelsandblades.co.uk Or you could just Search Google accordingly

I make sheaths by the 'fold over' method and the 'front & back' method, and yes, bevelling the top inside of the sheath opening can be tricky The technique is to do all the inside bevelling before the pieces are assembled, when they are still flat pieces. After you've done a couple you learn where those internal edges & corners will be. Or you could make a mock - up from card to help plan the work The cheap edge beveller with the flat cutting edge, costing about $12, is easier to use on internal corners than more expensive bevellers with the recessed cutting edge. You will, of course, get a flat 45 degree cut, so you will need to do some sanding if you want a neater, rounded edge, but as internal bevels are not usually very long, this won't be much of a problem - even less if you use a recessed beveller before making up the flat pieces See this video on YouTube - ' The Difference between Craftool Edge Beveller and Keen Edge' by Leatherworkbench there are lots of videos on making a sheath. Watch as many as you have the stamina for, and you'll see how others tackle the problem If you're careful you could bevel just the inaccessible places freehand with a scalpel or a small Exacto type craft knife

Search YouTube for 'sharpening scissors'; there are lots of videos. I haven't watched them all but you should be able to pick up enough information I have watched the scissor sharpening video by Paul Sellers. He is a traditional carpenter, and his advice is usually simple and effective

The traditional base for hole punching into is a very thick sheet of lead or a lead block. When it's worn, you melt it again I had one, but it was stolen. Now I use a thick magazine as a base for punches and stitching chisels and replace it when it gets worn Of course, the punches should be very sharp

I don't know if this is any help, but - A friend of a friend makes sails, boat covers etc from cotton canvas and synthetic. He uses an old Singer treadle machine, which he prefers to electric as he says it gives him more control. But I'm afraid that only you can decide whether you will have sufficient strength and co-ordination to operate it This sort of problem has been posted before, and suggestions have included fixing an awl blade in the chuck of a small drill press - similar sort of machines are used to press down dies and makers mark stamps onto leather. Or to get a small Dremel in a drill press stand of some kind; or a small pillar drill There are other makes, including Proxxon, which is more expensive. Surf t'Net and see what's available. Those two would only make one hole at a time, and you would have to do the sewing by hand. If necessary you could probably have the pillar drill adapted to use a foot switch, though you would still need to pull it down by hand Edit - have tou thought about using a stitching chisel?

There are a lot of leather videos on YouTube, for both techniques and specific items; Search accordingly. Leodis Leather/Ian Atkinson's and Nigel Armitage's channels are pretty good Nigel does a video entitled ' How to make a simple Handmade Leather Wallet', and is as good a place to start as any

George Barnsley was a Sheffield based manufacturer of knives and other tools for leather and other trades, but they closed down several years ago. Now they've started up again, still in Sheffield, producing round knives, head/half round knives, other knives, and other tools for leatherwork. Not dirt cheap but not super expensive either; in other words, a fair price for what you get. I have one of their head knives, and as a traditional manufacturer you get a basic edge; you're expected to do the final sharpening & polishing yourself, but once you get there it's excellent. Search Google for 'George Barnsley and Sons'. There are several videos about sharpening round & head knives; Search YouTube accordingly

You could do some homework for yourself - This sort of question crops up regularly, so look through old Threads on this forum, especially on Tools and Getting Started There are loads of videos on YouTube, for both techniques such as saddle stitching, and particular items, such as belts or wallets. You'll see what tools are used, and how they are used. Also Search for Beginners Leather Tools. YT is a place to get instant experience Many people start off with Tandy, and stay with them; they are a good mid range choice. I assume you are in the USA, and Rocky Mountain Leather Supply is a good place to shop as well. Here are a few things to get you started - A cutting mat; the usual green thing, get the biggest you can manage A craft knife/box cutter/utility knife is cheap and easy to use, you may well have one already. Don't be in a hurry to get anything more expensive, you can do good work with a utility knife A diamond/harness/saddler's awl. Get one ready mounted in a haft/handle; you can improve it by sharpening & polishing it yourself - Search YT for Sharpening an awl A round/scratch awl. Used to mark out patterns; enlarging stitching holes; and generally poking around. They're cheap enough Stitching chisels. Start with a Tandy Craftool or Craftool Pro, 2 prong 3,5 or 4mm spacing. You can always get more if you find you need them. Steel hammers will damage them, so get a soft mallet asap - wood, hide, nylon Needles. John James are the best, and not too expensive. Size 002 from RMLS Thread. Tandy ready waxed nylon is cheap and easy to use. RMLS sell their own brand of thread - 'Twist' - which is very good and fairly cheap. Try both linen and synthetic A block of beeswax.For waxing thread, even ready waxed; lubricating awls & chisels; some kinds of edge burnishing Dividers, to mark the line of stitching; RMLS sell an economy pair Economy edge burnisher from RMLS An edge beveler. Tandy Craftool Edge Beveler #8076 - 02 is cheap, easy to use, and easy to sharpen The key to leatherwork is to have razor sharp tools. There are loads of videos on sharpening, and a section on this forum. Fine wet & dry paper is cheap & easy to use, and you can make your own strop - Search YT

Hello Azarl and welcome to the forum; lots of help & advice here. I live in Lancashire Tell us a bit more about yourself, like what sort of things do you fancy making

Hello SDP and welcome to the forum, and the fun! Here are a few comments - Even if you have a stitching chisel, an awl is very desirable. The Tandy model you have listed is good enough, but you will get the best results if you sharpen & polish it on fine wet & dry paper, followed by a strop. Search You Tube for 'Sharpening an awl' Work through paper grades from about 1000 to 2500 or 3000 in 4 or 5 steps The edge beveller #8076 - 02 is good enough to start with, as it is easy to use and easy to sharpen. Search YouTube for 'Sharpening an edge beveller' An 8 prong chisel is really only used on long stitching runs, like bags & large wallets. 2,5mm chisel has quite narrow spaces which are more difficult to sew. So I would try to swap these two chisels for a 2 prong, and a 4 prong, with 3,5mm spaces. #88057 - 02 & - 04. Other than that, these chisels are reasonable enough, I have a couple myself When you start you may wish to try different types of thread to see what you like. The carriage thread is good, and the price has come down since Tandy's reorganisation, so you may as well keep it You would only get the best out of the slicker if you can mount it in a drill, such as a Dremel I don't know every supplier in the USA, but Rocky Mountain Leather Supply looks decent Here are some things you could get from them - Economy leather burnisher; this is known as the 'carrot' type. You'll know what I mean when you see it Economy Scratch Compass/Wing Divider, for setting & marking the line of the stitching Are you using Tandy needles? John James needles are considered the best, and not expensive. Get a packet of size 002 I have tried Yue Fung thread, and it's very good. It is Chinese, but it is sold by RMLS under their own brand name - Twist. Maybe try a reel of linen, and of synthetic, and see how you go on There are loads of videos on YT about leather, both techniques such as saddle stitch or edge burnishing; and specific items, like belts or wallets. Watch as many as you have the stamina for, and you'll see what tools are used, and how they are used. Have a look at Leodis Leather, aka Ian Atkinson; and Nigel Armitage You can hit stitching chisels with a steel hammer for a short time, but it will eventually damage them, so get a soft hammer or mallet, like wood, hide, nylon, or see what they have in an auto parts store A utility knife/box cutter is fine to start with, but the blades will be improved by extra sharpening with wet & dry, and a strop, even if they're new Don't forget the leather! Bellies and splits are the cheapest; not good enough for the best work, but quite good enough for practising and small items Get a scratch/round awl. It's used to enlarge holes, especially for backstitching; marking out leather; and generally poking & prodding around Get a block of beeswax. It's used to wax thread, even ready waxed; lubricating awls & chisels; some methods of edge burnishing

The cover looks OK to me. Yes, the stitching on the corner is a bit close to the edge, but it should survive; and if you've backstiched well enough you shouldn't need a rivet But I have a question for you. What make is the axe please? I bought one that looks the same from a secondhand stall, including the marking on the face, which I assume is the weight in grams. My guess is BAHCO, but it would be nice to know for sure

I usually glue everything together before I use a stitching chisel If the combined thickness is still thin enough for the chisel to go through all the layers, no problem If the combined thickness is too much for the chisel to penetrate all the layers I follow up and complete them with an awl, using the partly formed holes as a guide

During this summer I visited Hadrian's Wall and saw a Roman re-enactment group, Legio VIII Augusta MGV, who had demonstrations of Roman life - cookery, clothing, weapons, etc When we see pictures of Roman footwear they look, well, old & scruffy of course, but they had a cobbler making modern reproductions of Roman shoes, and some of them looked quite attractive, you could almost get away with wearing them today. I was impressed with the amount of work and fine detail that went into them There are several re-enactment groups in Britain and USA; just Search Google. And Search YouTube for 'roman footwear'.

I'm wary of turning this into a political discussion, but I too am doubtful that Brexit will be as much of a problem as the Remainers have forecast - business is business, and no-one is going to turn down a customer I can't suggest any particular suppliers, though I have seen the leatherhouse.eu website and it seems reasonable enough. Here are some comments on thread - I would have thought that Fil au Chinois would be the obvious choice for someone living in France, but as it's not so easy to find in Britain recently I have tried Yue Fung thread, both linen & synthetic, and it's very good. In particular I like the linen thread, and I'd say it's as good, if not better than Fil au Chinois I have used Amy Roke synthetic thread, and prefer it to Ritza/Tiger thread I haven't used Amy Roke linen, but I would expect it to be good quality I haven't bought any leather of this supplier, but I've heard good reports - https://www.buyleatheronline.com

I've finished playing around with my leather now After it dried I treated a small piece with some general leather grease that had been thinned with white spirit to help it penetrate, then left it overnight to dry It's quite good - soft, supple, and a lot of the creases have gone. I won't use it for the best work, but it will be OK for things like linings & tool handles

I'm sure I'll be able to use it somehow, if not immediately I have a couple of Japanese pull saws with the bound bamboo? handles but I didn't find them so easy to grip. I wrapped them with the rubber grip strip as used on bicycle handlebars, but if I need to do it again I'll use this leather

OK, I've washed my leather now and it looks pretty good There is no damage apart from the existing worn areas; it is very clean; most of the creases have gone It is still damp, I'm letting it air dry, then I should be able to use it with no problems

Well, I've finished unpicking the leather now. It wasn't glued anywhere, just sewn, so the reverse/flesh side is OK. There are a couple of worn areas, but apart from those it seems to be in reasonable condition. I've seen on YouTube that you can wash leather so I will - Wipe it over with white spirit to remove any dried conditioner & grease that has accumulated in the nooks & crannies Wash it in the machine on a gentle cycle with a small amount of soap Let it dry and see what survives. Obviously I'll treat it if I want to use it again If nothing else I should be able to make a load of round strops for sharpening spoon carving knives!

Nigel Armitage has a review on YouTube, called, logically enough, 'Tandy Craftool Edge Beveller Review Search YT for 'how to sharpen an edge beveler'; there are several videos. I have made a board similar to that by lb custom knives I have the simple straight cut beveller and a set of the Craftool Pro bevellers #00 to #2 that I got when my local store (now closed) had them on offer. They do need a bit of care & practice compared to the simple one

Thanks Deb. I've Searched for interfacing on the Net. Now I know what it is I'll look into it some more