bikermutt07

Good job.

I only use it after. I know some people here say it's best before and after. These people know more than I do and claim that it helps the dye penetrate more evenly. I haven't had any luck testing that procedure with scraps, myself.

They look great, Matt .

This is awesome.

Pretty sure that is veg tan that was poorly tanned. I think the term "wet blues" is used in the early part of the tanning process. Then if it doesn't stay in the tannin soak long enough the blue center remains. It's been awhile since I researched the tanning process.

Good job, Cap.

Great job. Happy wife, Happy life.

They are a retailer for tiger thread.

When it comes to knives, I'm a knipschield man. Boy, his stuff is great.

That is a great looking bag.

I think they brain tanned.

I try to dye my stuff lighter than I want it. Wait at least a day. Then a very light coat of neatsfoot oil. This will hopefully get the color I want. Then I finish with Aussie. Every piece of leather is different and that includes cuts from the same hide. I think you pretty much have to be the leather equivalent of an alchemist to achieve perfection. I have achieved no perfection yet.

Me too, Dwight. I would love a big cowboy or cobra splitter. It's not anymore in my future than winning the Powerball.

Problem located in your first sentence. Water based dyes have more problems than questions about problems using them posted here. Use fiebings pro dye. They say the USMC black bleeds a lot (never tried it). Just use black. And if I was going black, I would dip it. (Pro dye and pro oil dye are the exact same product according to fiebings. They have discontinued the pro oil moniker to eliminate confusion). Good luck.

Also FWIW, even a with a well sharpened manufactured machine it is no joy to pull a 4" wide piece thru. It's tough. Almost impossible with horween cxl.

The 206 is everything you mentioned, I believe. Not sure about the 226.

I have bought several items from Wuta and have been very happy with them. I also have been very happy with Kizer cutlery. They make an amazing knife for the affordable retail price. Sure a U.S. distributor would be a nice foot in the door, but.... We are all living in a global market. You could sell and distribute yourself with a well built website. As far as I am concerned, Wuta and Kizer have my business. That may sound unamerican to some, but I like to support quality products at a fair price. From a consumer standpoint I would like to point out something I have read in the recent past about, "the misconception over the quality of Chinese tools". This was no misconception on the consumer's part. China flooded the American market with the cheapest junkiest products available for 40 years. I like seeing precision with fine materials starting to make it to America from Chinese manufacturers. I always knew they could do it, but for some reason didn't. Harbor Freight is a fine example of cheap Chinese junk, in case anyone wants to debate that point. My hat is off to Wuta and Kizer. As well as a few others on that side of the world, Amy Roke, Crimson Hide, Seiwa, and Hex n Hit. Good luck.

The bellies are more stretchy. And some times they have a loose grain to them. I haven't run into any problems using them for nonstressed items.

I'm not sure I know what you're talking about exactly, but..... Home Depot and Lowe's both sell narrow slats of different wood for projects. You can get some of them as thin as a ¼"x¾".

I thought you were supposed to cut them to a needed length then drive them? That's how I have to do the other type of rivets.

Just start saving and wait for a deal. I found a perfect condition heritage splitter for 250.00 on Craigslist. The deals come along and you just have to be ready to pounce. That one deal turned out about 3,000.00 worth of tools for 350.00. Maybe more.

It doesn't look like a good way to carry, but that's a mighty fine picture!!!

Ok, stick with the pro dye. Water based ones seem to give people nothing but problems. There is thread after thread here about a this or that problem with water dyes. I started with pro dye and have never had an issue (big enough to cause me to switch). Acrylic dyes are water based. Acrylic paints are a different beast and I have no experience with them. Any side of leather will have waste, period. I don't know all the ins and outs of which part of the hide is for what.... I do know you want your strap goods from the upper part of the back. That section has the least amount of stretch. Most people don't seem to want to use the bellies. But for less stressful items I think they are fine. Wallets, bracelets, coasters, whatever. The first sheath (thing) I made was out of 5\6 ounce for a rat laser strike. Yes it was too light\thin. The second thing I made was a phone holder. It was fine for that. The third thing I made was a pocket knife sheath for a small fallkniven knife. It worked well for it too. You can always laminate your leather to make it thicker and stiffer. Two pieces of 5 ounce becomes 10 ounce. This is achieved with contact cement.

Fiebings pro oil and pro dye are the exact same product. They are currently producing only bottles labeled pro dye to eliminate confusion. $30.00 for 2 square feet or $100 for 25 square feet. That is a no brainier. 5\6 ounce is fine for pocket slip sheaths or small belt sheaths. Bigger knife? Go up to 7\8 ounce or even 9\10 ounce. Spend some time here and you will learn all you need. But do a little research. People here have answered the basics a hundred times over (be respectful of their time and knowledge). Please keep that in mind. If you search questions on Google it will lead you to dozens of responses here. Good luck.

It's the shopsmith for me, as soon as I can get it set up. This oneachine could be complete Overkill for what a leather crafter needs. Variable speed, lathe, disc sander, belt, strip or drum sander and all with a ⅝" collet. What more could you ask for?