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Very nicely done Constab and I think I recognise the hook, because you pointed it out to me on ebay many months ago, so I bought one... I forgot to thank you for the heads up... I think your touch up with the spray paint is a good compromise, sometimes one has decide what it is one wishes to do most.. .Fix them up or use them... I go through stages... My CLaes 230 has not been used in anger yet, since I have to do as you have done and make a table to fit many machines.. I got an oberfraese for Christmas.. Thanks for the effort of putting up the information. Cheers Alex

Thanks for the ebay link... I am watching it and will see how it goes. Although I am not convinced parcelhero will ship 50kgs... I'll check. With regard to presses, I have found that beeswax presses or laminating machines are cheap and could be a good alternative. https://www.ebay.de/itm/Manuell-Laminator-Rollenlaminator-Kaltlaminator-Roller-25-5-650mm/272645659016?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

Well I would happily pay 250 for a crank handle splitter... I think you got lucky there... I can get the leather press for 50 Euros, so I am willing to spend another 150 on converting it... If and only if it would work well... I am looking to be able to skive upto 6 inch strips of leather.. .No more than that.. I have been waiting a long time for a splitter to come available and nothing has turned up as yet, so I thought I might give this a go... Cheers ALex

yes, definitely interested to see your results... Nice work, by the way Ale

Has anyone tried it? Since leather presses are relatively cheap and splitters not, I was thinking of attempting this. The leather press has almost everything necessary to be a splitter apart from the blade. It has a driven top roller, an adjustable top roller (How precise I don't know). If one can tap and thread some holes in to the front of the machine (I think the press I am interested in already has holes there-see pic) somewhere near where the two rollers meet. Use a simple L bracket reaching from oneside to the other, with slits to adjust height and to mount a blade on. Then find a blade or make one.. I think it is possible and reasonable thing to do... yes? The leather press: So that I would end up with something like this, with the blade across the front...

Good work Constab! I have huge spools of thread (5000 m) and I would like to transfer them to smaller spools for convenience and in some cases neccessity. Would this system spin the thread on well enough in an orderly manner with no tension issues?.... In particular, I wish to do this for my Gritzner Sole machine and a few others.. Cheers Alex

It is sewing wonderfully... Very nice for such a machine... I am still in wonder at all the shiny bits... I have bought citrone saure and going to try and derust some stuff... I wan to get as good as your result... I am also looking at buying a car batterie charger to attempt some electrolysis... I am looking for the least physically demanding derusting method... Thanks for keeping us entertained...

Thank Bob for the information... Everyday is a new chance to learn... I will post a picture of the back tshortly... Constab, he wants 89 Euros for it and I can pick it up for you, since its relatively close. If you are interested I will send you the link. Since I have my Claes, I am not interested in another patcher... Cheers Alex

I have just seen this for sale near to me, but I am only curious as to what model it is.. .It looks like no 29K, that I have seen... Does anyone have any ideas? Cheers Alex

Oh, I would love one of these.. .Unfortunately, as the others have said... Good luck! What I don't understand is that the Chinese are producing these now and I think you can get them off alibaba for around a Grand... I thought this would bring used prices down to something reasonable... But no ALex

Well, I remembered that I had an old Pfaff motor like this below. Surprisingly I am able to feather the pedal so that I can sew slowly. Admittedly I cannot control exactly when it stops, but in such cases where I need precise control ie when sewing the finger tips, I can turn the wheel by hand for several stitches. I have only ever used servo industrial motors, but I might consider using induction motors from now on. This is not ideal,but then again I cannot find an ideal servo motor either...

Hi Ralf, Thanks for the contact, I had never heard of him. Do you know the minimum speed of that motor? I will be interested to hear your opnion of the motor should you buy it. Cheers ALex

Hi Wizcraft, So there is no chance of getting a SewPro then... That is a shame.... I am making gloves and I really need a slow motor... Any suggestions? Cheers Alex

Hi Constab, Yes, I have the speed reducer, but that is for my workhorse Durkopp, which needs the power... Now I need a motor for my glove sewing machines (will post a picture shortly) and for this I need to go really slowly for going around the fingers. Since Torque is not so important I was thinking of making one and controlling it with an Arduino... But I am a little lazy to do so... The ho-sing looks hopeful... Aerostar seem to have another servo motor which has been reported as starting at 100 rpm.. JM-822 https://www.ebay.de/itm/Servo-motor-JM822-650/252760904208? Alex

Well, I am hoping they still sell it.... Since my Jack servo motor is a little quick for the work I wish to do... I'll update this information either way. Cheers Alex

Hi Ralf, Thanks for the reply. I got a response from the seller and it seems like the whole range JM700-900 has a lowest startup speed of 300 rpm. This is a surpise since sewtex are advertising the JM700 as starting at 100 rpm.. I am now considering the Ho-sing g60 and I like the simplicity of the sew-pro 550gl. However, i am not sure we can get it this side of the pond

A real Beauty, Constab... Why did this machine appeal to you? What makes it interesting or differen to the others? Lastly, how did you clean the chrome (I guess) pieces so well? Electrolysis? I cannot get my chromes parts looking so fine. My next attempt was to try Jeweller's rouge and polishing pad... Keep up the good work Alex

This is the actual motor (link)

Haha.... Constab, what I said sounds so stupid now.... Ofcourse you are correct all machines start at 0 rpm Russian is no problem, remember I am in the East and its seems like the Russians never left ... I was going to buy it off ebay.de, since I have found ebay is easiest for returns if there is a problem. I have the Jack motor and its fine, but goes too fast for sewing the fingers on gloves... Well atleast too fast for me... and I don't want to go to the hassle of another pulley system. Maybe i will have to. Cheers Alex

Does anyone have any experience of these? In particular, the one piece JM 900 series. http://www.chinalsjm.com/en/products.php?catg_code=product-1 I like the sound of it because it starts from 0 rpm, unlike my Jack servo motor which startrs at 200 rpm. This would not need a pulley system to slow it down. Its avilable here in Europe, but I can find nothing on it. Cheers Alex

Wow... It looks flawless and I like the attention to detail... You even put leather on the padlock! I think I am going to try handsewing again and will use your example as something to strive for... Truly gobsmacked by your work. Alex

Well I do admire his get up and go...and refusal to be beaten... (honestly) However, maybe a few minutes thought would have been appropriate... Alex

Oh, I am sorry... I forgot to respond earlier..... I will find the details tonight and post it then. Cheers Alex

Claes are great patcher machines and that is their largest one. Howeever, they all sew about 12 mm which is significantly more than the Singers.. I would say that it is an earlier build, because as we get further in to the DDR the build quality goes down. I have a black one like this...to replace my Singer that got stolen... I am glad it got stolen in the end, as this is much better. Cheers Alex

Thank you everyone... I see that I am going to have to have a close look at one of my old machines and see what difference rotating disk 24 makes... I think the spring rests on it and thus that is why I thought it changed the stop position of the spring... However, now I am not sure... Cheers Alex