YinTx

Wait wat??!?!? So, if you're married, they won't sell to you? Something not passing the sniff test here. YinTx

Probably not necessary. Sometimes putting dye on a rough edge doesn't give great results anyhow, so fairly smooth is ok. If it doesn't take, then use some 320 or finer to lightly buff the edge. YinTx

Agree about the links. Usually YouTube videos link fine here though, not sure why yours did not? I did search for it on YouTube and found it. Nice work, those bags are apparently quite collectible and expensive. Interesting work! Did you nourish the leather with anything? Or leave it as is? YinTx

Yes, Tan Kote is like a light resist, Resolene and Pro Resist is a stronger resist for antique. Also, I tend to wait overnight for the resist to really cure, because the antique can act as a solvent and remove the resist if it isn't fully cured. The 4 hours between your two posts would hardly be enough time around here for it to cure. With Tan Kote, I'd even use two coats depending on the look I wanted. I don't like edge kote, even after a few months, I found a wet towel will lift it right off the edge of the leather. Also don't like the results with it. I've had much better luck with just using dye on the edge and burnishing it. Look forward to seeing your results! YinTx

Yes. That is why I have so many different types now. Paste, highlighter, gel, etc. It really does just depend on the look you want for the project you are on, and how comfortable you are using each type. As far as oil, a little bit goes a long long way. I've seen folks literally douse things in it, but I prefer a very light coat to keep it from getting to soft and soggy. You can't take it out. But it will distribute evenly over time, so if the leather is thick, then the color will lighten up as it permeates further into the piece. You'll have a better idea in the morning! YinTx

NP. I have a lot of antique, and I have migrated towards highlighter or gel antique. Alcohol can remove impurities that may cause uneven dye, yes. I've oiled before dye before as well with good results. Not very often that I would consider not adding oil to veg tan leather. Look forward to seeing your results, and consider experimenting on sample bits before you go after your project. YinTx

You will discover that there is still some antique on the elevated sections that you want to remove, even after you have wiped it off. Don even shows some videos where he uses the Tan Kote to clean this up, and you can see his pieces clean up nicely when he does this, and you can see the antique come off onto his sheepskin. Plenty of antique stays on the valleys and crevices not to mention it will stain the leather in these places so even if you do pull it out (which kinda you do want to, so you don't have antique caked in there, it would crumble out when it dries if you leave that much - presuming you are using paste antique) these places will remain darker. If you watched the referenced video, he clearly describes the intent at the 26 minute mark or so. Not sure why you are worried about removing any oil on the leather. Old timers used the acronym "ONAT" for the process: Add Oil, then Neatlac, then Antique, then Tan Kote. If you add alcohol to the leather, you will dry it out. If you've dyed it, that will dry it out. You will probably want to add Neatsfoot oil to it to help restore the oil content and nourish the leather. (a little goes a long way). If you let this set overnight, then add the resist, it will be just fine. Don also demonstrates this, he uses olive oil. In fact the first nearly 12 minutes of that video discuss this. You didn't mention what kind of antique you have. Are you using paste like Don shows, or do you have the gel antique? YinTx

Generally speaking you would use one or the other, although it is reasonable that one might use both products depending on the result you wanted to get. They are usually used when you have tooled or stamped leather, and you want to apply antique. They would be used as a "resist" to keep the antique from darkening certain areas of the leather, and to allow the antique to highlight the tooling and carving. If you don't have tooling, usually you wouldn't use antique but dye only. Again, this is an art, so you can get different effects by using different techniques in different orders on your project. You would use Tan Kote to lift the remaining antique off the leather after you have buffed it off using sheepskin (or towel, etc). Some would stop there, others like to put a final seal coat with Resolene, although you could use Pro Resist as a seal coat (it is a more shiny finish). Hopefully this helps a little. YinTx

Just my thoughts, get in touch with Jim Linnell at Elk Tracks Studio. He has several historical and collectible examples of tooled leather, and is probably aware of how the tooled leather pieces in the Tandy Museum (including Al Stohlman and others) have been mounted, displayed, and preserved. YinTx

Yeah, that's a beast! Definitely came out well tho! YinTx

Yeah, I've never had a result after applyine tan kote to a drum dyed leather that resembled yours. It will lift some color off of pigment dyed leathers, since most of those have some pigment on the surface that hasn't penetrated. A damp cloth will do that as well. But not so blotchy. It does appear you applied it a bit heavy to me, I usually apply it mixed 50/50 with water and in two coats if needed. And not so heavy even then. I'd would have been tempted to go over the whole thing with a very damp soft towel to even everything out. Tan Kote is not a water seal, so it should get evened out. Post a pic of your current progress if you would, I am curious how your buffing resulted. YinTx

What kind of dye did you use? Looks kind of like it was applied full strength on top of antique. If you give some details on application, we might be able to give some better directions. Did you put any conditioner on underneath the tan kote? Try buffing a small 1/2" spot in an unseen part (bottom?) with a wet/damp towel to see if color evens out. Let us know what you get. YinTx

I dig the texturing. Also, finish it. You will discover that there are other little things you will learn as you go through the process. Better to learn them all on one sheath than to have 10 sheaths in various stages of completion that demarcate each lesson learned! Then when you go to make the next version, you have learned a lot of the lessons already and it will go much smoother. YinTx

This helps without a doubt. I'll have to remember this is the reason for my crooked cuts and taps! And find a tamer critter for the next one.. YinTx

hah! like a pringles, eh? YinTx

Some intricate details there, skills. YinTx

Those rock! Now I hafta do one... YinTx

That is awesome! I really like the red surround, and that is a lot of detail work on the characters! YinTx

Really nice work. Is that Teju? I can imagine it matching some of the more audacious watch faces out there... YinTx

Ok, laptop seems functional again. Here are the images as promised. Again, not as great as Danne's but adequate for a prototype item. YinTx

@Wizcrafts, @Uwe and or @Constabulary may be able to help. Also consider posting in the sewing machines section with a bit more descriptive title including machine type and issue, you may get a better response! best of luck. YinTx

So many different skills in that one piece! edge work, tooling, stitching, lacing, lining, etc.! Cool piece! YinTx

Finished up, with adequate results. will post photos when I have a functional computer. YinTx

Traditional or modern? Also, what weight? I have some, depending on all that. YinTx

Nice work! YinTx