YinTx

At least that is what happened to me. I've taken to marking with a leather marking pen and using a round awl to open the leather up enough for the stitching needle, especially if I don't want any thread showing on the turned item. Punching all the way through leather is popular these days, I get it, but there are some instances I think where I don't really want to do that, this is one of them. YinTx

That depends on what you are stitching. If you are doing a turned bag, round dent may be better. If you want to see slanted stitching, maybe not better. YinTx

At 4:10 he labels it a Barry King Crowner. Not sure what you are asking that he didn't answer? YinTx

I suspect that is not an easy thing to make and get it to look right. My first thought was cool difference with the antiques/battled look. Also, I thought the fingers wrapped all the way around, kinda like a glove? How do you plan to attach the stones? YinTx

I've heard that if the holes are too big in relation to the thread, it allows the thread to move in the hole and rub, cutting itself like a little saw. Maybe that is the difference, and why we both had failures at the same place, where the bend allows the thread to rub in a hole that is too big for the thread? This is supposedly why you don't want to use a stitching chisel to punch all the way through leather in an application like a saddle, where there is a lot of movement and stress, and the tiniest exit hole from the awl is preferred, and a thread size that is very hard to pull through the hole so there is little room for movement. Maybe someone with understanding/experience on this theory can pipe in? YinTx

Wow, I haven't had this issue. Been using Fil Au Chinois on many a wallet, never had one come back. Have used them myself for years on end, never had one even fray. I have been using 432 and 532, perhaps that makes a difference. I have had some 532 fail on a dog collar where the dog was scratching the collar with a hind leg, bit extreme use though. Not sure how much grooving would have helped that. Also had a 532 fail on the fold of a phone case/wallet after about four years of constant daily use. It did not come unstitched at all, just had two of the threads break. Obviously, YMMV! YinTx

I really like how you got the colors on the leather to compliment the colors of the wood, or vice versa. Also, the train scene is phenomenally colored! The whole piece has a great nostalgic aura. Thanks for sharing! YinTx

Ok, that rocks! Will definitely be the only one on the road... for now! YinTx

Also, they function awesome. And Robert Beard will sharpen it for you for the cost of shipping if it needs it. Mine did, and now it is phenomenal. I don't know the going price, but if someone is considering a nice upgrade, this certainly fills the bill. I will say this, I've used a BK swivel and wasn't impressed enough to upgrade from my well sharpened Tandy. I am impressed by these tho and I have upgraded. I'd be in if I didn't already have one! YinTx

I did note this is in the Show Off Section, not Critique My Work Section, even though he did ask for some critique so: Love the colors of the leather contrasted with the blue thread and copper rivets. Cool simple design, looks like it should provide some decent protection for the stogies. Alternating stitching came out well. Others have provided enough critique, so I won't add to it! Welcome to the forum with your first post. YinTx

Or just take a pointed stylus and push it where you want the dot. YinTx

That looks pretty thick to be using for a wallet! A simple item to make would be a valet tray. With that many sheets of that size, you could easily make some satchels/briefcases, especially if you kept the design simple. Several good Youtube videos out there of how to construct one. Just some ideas. That is an awesome gift, that much leather can be pretty pricey! YinTx

Do a little search on this site, you will see a lot off reviews on stitching chisels. That style results in a bit of a chunky stitch and big hole, in my opinion. YinTx

Ceramic Pros: Should already be sharp. Should always stay sharp. You will have to strop. I found I had to sharpen and polish mine, so this pro went away. Ceramic Cons: Brittle. Easy to chip or crack, once this happens, usually useless. Mine has a crack, I can still use it though one side works better than the other for sure. Metal Pros: Easy to sharpen, easy to polish. You can change the angle of the grind if you desire. You will have to strop. Metal Cons: You will have to sharpen most common brand blades when you receive it. The more expensive, high end brands will come already sharp, so this con goes away. You may have to sharpen it again in your lifetime. Usually stropping does the trick tho. I have a small collection of swivel knives, and it is small compared to other's collections. Everything I can do with an expensive blade I can do with my cheapest blade. You could not have convinced me of this before I had my collection, because I was sure a great blade would change my world. Yes, an expensive tool is wonderful to use. Unless you just gotta have it tho, probably not worth the orders of magnitude price difference. I still regularly pick up my old lower end Tandy swivel because I like the angle of the grind, and I managed to get a very good polish on the blade and it cuts very well. Even Jim Linnell, who has an impressive array of vintage, collectible, and high end swivels always seems to pick up his Tandy Ergo swivel to teach his classes. As an aside, Robert Beard will sharpen your blade for you for free for life (_his_ lifetime, not yours or the tool's!) He has just done this for a blade that I picked up second hand that had a bad regrind on it. I have not put it to use yet, I am still hoping that it will change my world, so my assertion that no one can convince me that a cheap blade will do the trick even if it is true, still holds. YinTx

JH Leather does a couple of different methods, here is one. Yintx

For a first project, you are off to the races! Looking fantastic. Resolene should work for you, and on a painted surface probably best to spray on lightly. Most dilute 50/50 with water with good results. YinTx

Looks like it'll do the trick nicely! Nice stitching, too btw. YinTx

I always love seeing your work. Your use of colors is always outstanding, along with all of the skill and craftsmanship that goes into your work. Another knocked out of the park! YinTx

True, and thanks for sharing here as well. Has me thinking about those bobbins with odd thread on them sitting for long stretches at a time... YinTx

Adhesive usually helps prevent separation when you slick the edges. Not much else going to keep leather stuck together as far as I know. YinTx

You make it look so simple! Looks really good. YinTx

One option is to go direct to Wickett and Craig leather, get some bridle leather bellies. Really low price (like, $7-10 a piece), no worries if you mess up some, not bad leather. Has a sheen that you are looking for, will burnish on the edges like you mention, you can get several thicknesses to address what you are making (ask them to split it for you). Prices are much lower direct from the tanner, and you can buy one at a time if you like. When you find a color and finish you like, you can buy a side from their overstock section often at very low prices (like $150-175 per side). Just an option. Prices probably going to change, and I have nothing to do with W&C other than I like their leather for some of my projects! YinTx

Nicely executed! Is that Chevre Chagrin? Definitely a dose of red there! YinTx

Just wow! YinTx

Maybe the runny one was warm? I've not had one that thin. Old ones tend to get almost like clay, so maybe it is just fresh! I think you will find if you smear some on a scrap piece of leather, they will give you different results. If you really feel the need to dilute, you can buy the neutral antique and mix it in. YinTx