YinTx

Also I think there is a creative stamping section under Paul Burnett on the first page of LW.net! YinTx

I believe Bruce Johnson offers the service. http://brucejohnsonleather.com YinTx

There are books that cover this. Creative Stamping is one, I think Paul Burnett's website has some also. I may have a duplicate laying around here somewhere also. YinTx

I have a Blanchard, it is vintage and probably needs some work. Let me know if you are interested. YinTx

That is a fantastic start. Most of us would dream to have instruction from other skilled craftsworkers, but have had to teach ourselves. Fortunately, we still have a great resource: the internet and specifically YouTube. As for tools, sky is the limit and you can have as many as you like or as few as necessary. Bevelers, shaders, swivel knife, backgrounders, modeling spoons and lifters will get you most of the way there. Figure carving bevelers will open new windows for you. What size depends entirely on how big your carvings are. Here are some of many tutorials on feathers: YinTx

That is a neat bag. I hope you post progress photos, this interests me. I have ideas, but since I haven't done it, they won't be much help for you. My concern would be if the straps and handle are in that condition, the body leather can't be far behind, and as such would not have much strength if you were to pull stitches tight, they might pull through? Photos can be deceiving, having it in hand I am sure tells more of the story. Polishing the brass shouldn't be too big a deal if the D's are in good condition (not bent/cracked), but they will tarnish over time unless you have a way to recoat them with a clear finish. YinTx

Best way is to prevent the stretch in the first place, usually by attaching something to the back, like tape. Not sure if it is reasonable to do hundreds in this manner... but perhaps you could think of something else that would work in this instance. If I had to do hundreds, I'd probably have an embossing plate made, the few $$ it cost would save tons of time. After all, a basket stamp is not much different from an embossing stamp. Might result in less distortion on the coaster also. YinTx

Aesthetically flawless, well constructed perfection. YinTx

I've had the same concern, but using Angelus I have never had it come off. Even on a well worn dog collar! YinTx

Thank you. It's seen over a year of use, and still looks just as good! YinTx

Pretty cool, but I gotta know, what keeps that fly from flying off the handle? YinTx

Sold, thank you! YinTx

Don't know, as I don't have a gas burner stove in my current home. But, I do know if you use denatured fuel alcohol, it will not blacken your tools. Also, you can put the lamp on your work bench, and it presumably uses a lot less fuel. Imagine the flames burn at different temperatures as well. I have seen leather workers set their crease on an electric hot plate with success, so that is an option. $10 pretty cheap if someone wanted to experiment. YinTx

Barely used alcohol lamp for heating creasers. I ended up with an electric crease shortly after getting this, and have since sold my Wuta Creasers that I bought at the same time. $10 plus shipping YinTx

I have an extra pair of stretching pliers, these are invaluable for pulling leather through splitters as they really improve your grip. It will wrinkle the section that they grip with, so make sure to add some length that you can trim off. This set is a high quality heavy pair made in Japan. $20 plus shipping. YinTx

What an artist, through and through. YinTx

Great conversation, but seriously, hijacked the thread. Someone trying to make a job available to another leatherworker - but lost in the shuffle. Anyway to break this off into another thread and clean it up some, admins? YinTx

Thats tiny! Very cool. YinTx

It looks really good. If it is lined, then you probably want to stitch the entire perimeter (including the flap cover) to ensure no de-lamination. YinTx

Fiebing's Pro Oil black dye, Hermann Oak leather, and I haven't had to buff a thing since then. Oddly enough, the EcoFlo black doesn't seem to bleed on much of anything either for me. YMMV. YinTx

Enjoying learning vicariously. I noted there is some apparent foaming at the tang pin, and if the ferrule is in contact with the solution, then the wood handle is in contact, which I suspect would eventually lead to wood rot? Then the handle will become loose in the handle. Might have been more appropriate to have removed the blade from the handle for the process. Just thinking out loud. Thanks for posting the process, and looking forward to seeing the rest of it. YinTx

Fantastic work, as always I really dig the color combos you do. YinTx

I've used belzona in industrial applications before. Some versions are machineable, etc. They typically require special metal prep to ensure proper adhesion, and heat treatment to cause the polymer to crosslink for strength and other desired properties in industrial uses. It is expensive, I would presume prohibitively expensive for use on a knife. (as in one unit of material will cost more than a knife will). If the pitting is in the blade edge, I don't think you'd be able to get belzona to sharpen and hold an edge for cutting purposes. A cheaper alternative would be something like JB Weld if you wanted to experiment with the epoxy based fillers. YinTx

Really depends on the size of the carving. And where I am in the carving. 00, 0, 1 and occasionally 2. Very rarely the largest one (2), but it comes in handy on borders. YinTx

Same. SSN is not to be given out so readily, nor banking info. Imagine if they get hacked, what an identity theft nightmare. Not a chance. YinTx