YinTx

It took me a while to learn how to use the aquilim to avoid the sticky buggers on the edges. For me, I have to apply it really really really thin. Like, transparent thin. No lines showing between strokes with the spatula spreader. Then, I hit it with a hair dryer to dry it out pretty well, it will be just tacky. Stick em together, and no buggers. YMMV. YinTx

I don't think a kitchen knife would be the best, but a sharp scalpel can work if used carefully enough. Swivel knives can be pretty cheap, $10 plus shipping if you are really going to get into it well worth it. The older Tandy knives are actually pretty decent once you get them sharpened up and oil the swivel bearing section. Make a beveler out of a large nail, cut the ends off, file one side to the shape you need, voila. If you don't have a mallet, make a whacky stick from a piece of wood. This doesn't have to be an expensive hobby, but it certainly can be. YinTx

Swivel knife maybe? Rotary knife would generally be used to cut all the way through the leather, not for carving... Really nice looking result, either way! YinTx

@DavidP, Best way I have found to resize images is to reduce the resolution, or pixel count, not the shape. On a Mac laptop, I open with Preview, go to "tools" drop down, select "adjust size", then you can select one of the resolutions in the "fit into" like 320x240, 640x480, 800x600" etc. Alternatively, to adjust width and height manually, leave "scale proportionally" and "resample image" both selected, Fit Into is "custom", leave width and height locked together, and put in a percent as a way to reduce. If you have a 1mb image, and put in 50% in the width, the height will automatically reduce in scale since it is locked to height, and the resulting size will reduce. Haven't tried on an Ipad, but suspect there may be some similar editing capability there. YinTx

Right now it doesn't look like any, but I come across unusual stamps once in a while, so just wanted to know which ones to be on the lookout for! YinTx

you just have to resize your photos to get them to load, as there is a limit to it. Many folks here with stitcher experience, imagine one or more will chime in once they see what you have. You can add to the thread with your resized photos. YinTx

That does square up the bottom nicely, and similar to what RockyAussie suggested. Kinda tells me a single layer chrome tan isn't really going to be a flat squared off bottom like those. I think Hahn's would have come out really nice if he had stitched the base so the leather didn't pull up when he formed it and put in the rivets, maybe I'll try one like that! YinTx

Are you just looking for the armadillo stamp, or any of the stamps in the photo? YinTx

Ok, ya'll. A little research into aliveshoes shows that they allow you to design a shoe on their website, they manufacture and ship them, you get a small profit - $10, $20, $30. The OP didn't make the website, he used it. The shoe is the design he came up with. He didn't set the price, aliveshoes did. The reviews on the website are not on this specific shoe, but on the manufacturer who has made many other shoes. This is evident in the way the reviews are presented. Also, if you go to the root website, you will see other designers shoes and more details about how the process works. https://www.aliveshoes.com/gallery Yep, it's different. Nope, not everyone will like it. Yes, some folks will spend that much to support new designers and have custom shoes. And more. Will it be around forever? Who knows. It's basically a shoe configurator. You can go on Youtube and see others that have used it, some happy, some not. Other companies have similar shoe configurators. Maybe I'm wrong, but it sounds to me like the OP is not an English as a first language speaker, and folks are attacking him over something they don't know about. Seems kinda harsh, he didn't ask you to buy anything, just wanted to show off his design. How is asking you to comment on a design a scam??? Anyhow, I was just kinda surprised at the full on negative response here. I wish the OP the best of luck, and welcome to Leatherworker, we are normally a lot more supportive here. I hope you get some of your shoes sold, and you get some yourself, and can show us some photos of them when you get them. YinTx also hope I am not wrong.

I have read Jim's method, yes. But what I had me a bit flummoxed was how to stitch along the top edge and the bottom edge *after* it had been glued on a curve/ over a form. So I had it in my mind that I had to stitch the top and the bottom first, then form it. Otherwise, PITA to stitch, even by hand, and I suspect not possible with machine? You would have to leave them both unstitched. Which seemed to invite separation in the future, especially the top line. I'll work my way down to the thinner leathers as I get comfy with them performing over time, I am sure. The more I see others are using thinner leathers without issue, the more relaxed I'll be about it. The 7 oz Avenger I did just seemed... floppy. Especially around the belt slot. Maybe it isn't really an issue tho? YinTx

Not sure how I missed this post from so long ago! Scraps are scraps tho. Some I went ahead and finished out. As far as stamps, I started with Tandy stamps, was lucky enough to get a Robert Beard basket stamp, and just recently acquired some Barry King stamps and some Sergey stamps. Tandy ones are by far the most difficult to keep aligned. All the others are really great quality and a joy to use. YinTx

Thank you. I've just started these, so haven't landed on a weight yet, and they haven't had an opportunity to get user comments yet. I've used everything from 7 oz to 10 oz. See my posts in the Critique my work section (link below). Lobo discussed leather weights in that thread. The first holster on the left I attempted to line, which required a lot of effort to ensure stitch lines matched. I didn't like how the inside wrinkled, and it was difficult to wet form and bone. How do you manage yours? This particular tooled holster was made from 8-10 oz leather. YinTx

A lot depends on the condition and the quality of the leather you are using. What leather are you using? Pro dye is one of the better ones for even coverage and color. YinTx

Thanks, and yes quite a bit of tooling space on the reinforcing panel. I opted to not use a lot of it due to the large bend, but you could probably get a lot more in there than I did. Also, the panel I accidentally slid it a bit to the back when I put it together, so some of what you should see on the front is moved a bit to the back. Thank you! Appreciate that, opted to do the stitching by hand instead of machine on this one since I put the time into tooling. It is for sale.... Thanks! 'preciate it! YinTx

Been practicing to learn to make Avenger holsters, finally think I have it down well enough to spend time tooling one. Let me know what y'all think! YinTx

Lots of bags there... just don't put your hand in the wrong one looking for the keys... YinTx

Nice work! To the moon! YinTx

Yes, and with a lubricant (soapy water). Takes some time and diligence, but it'll get er done. Much smaller surface area to polish vs. a kitchen knife, too, so that helps. YinTx

Excellent skills, fine attention to details, resulting in great art. Welcome, and thanks for sharing! YinTx

I must say my experience differed from yours. I did manage to sharpen mine with a high quality sand paper. Just takes some patience. YinTx

If you find his facebook page, I think they list a phone number there for him. I have found that to be the best way for me to reach him. Also, I put it to use, many times since the last post. It is phenomenal, I love it. Still pick up my old Tandy on occasion, but I do enjoy using my Robert Beard swivel knife. YinTx

Not sure how you should finish it, one of my weak points. But, I look forward to seeing them grow up! YinTx

Aw man, poor critter. Black and Yellow Garden spider/ orbweave spider. I leave them alone, they take out the annoying ones I don't like. Plus they have cool webs. Quite the swatter, nonetheless! YinTx

I am glad I revisited this post. I had a similar experience just recently with mahogany pro dye, but with sheepswool applied resolene. And I used 50/50 water/resolene mixture! Going to run a sample piece with your suggested % mixture to see if that helps. My leather was 10 0z Hermann Oak, firmest piece of HO I've ever had. YinTx

5 hours pushing it, nothing would be dry around here by then to even consider putting any oil or resolene! Looks pretty good. Think I might try to go for a bit more coverage on the trigger guard, but maybe just a preference thing? YinTx