MADMAX22

Gotta justify the $12 sq/ft right.

Probably a import leather right? Sometimes that imported stuff you get at tandy will have a smoothing top coat of some kind on it, I presume to try and hide all the imperfections.

I use pure neatsfoot oil. Works pretty darn good. Cant remember the exact mix but it was some bees wax, parafin wax, and enough oil so that at room temperature it was about the consistancy of soft butter. Once you start rubbing it in it clears up and and thins out really well. Takes a while to dry but gives a nice finish that you can buff out some.

Nice looking piece, not sure about the strap color personally however its very nice construction and materials.

Its probably a straight chrome tan leather and would be very difficult to redye. Some vegtan leathers can be redyed a darker color then what they are but results will always vary and requires experimentation. Most finished leather projects if not using a chrome type leather have a finisher applied which hinders dying with good results.

Must get some really really good prices on materials. I couldnt even make and ship locally for that price without losing money lol.

One thing that will wear like that after use is to dye the leather a light color then use a sponge that is semi dry with just enough dye on it to brush over the leather and leave pigment. Ya dont want to soak the leather with the darker dye. Similar effect as to doing reverse antique type dying. After some good use the darker dye thats just on the surface starts to wear off in areas and shows the lighter colors underneath. Gotta be careful and experiment with the amount of darker dye you add to the top layer.

Why not adjust the bobbin tension? Or is that not the issue.

Really need to read up some info on finishing your projects which will help. There are several threads on the order of things. How I do mine is cut the leather, dye it and let dry plenty (usually a few hrs), buff the leather, apply neatsfoot oil sparingly then let sit for 12-24 hrs, buff again, apply finish of choice, let dry depending on finish used, buff again and your all set. If your doing bends in it I usually wet mold it to the bend you want either after dying or before. Gonna have to play with that a little. Just make sure to use DI water, I use DI water with some saddle soap in it.

Uhoh sounds like they got some of the springfield staff working there Hopefully they take care of ya. I am not sure which leather I like better HO or WC. I will say WC is easier to get quality leather if you order from the tannery. Finding HO good sides from the retail side is difficult and expensive. Plus buying 2 sides from WC you probably save $50-60 (or more) over what others charge for it.

How in the world is someone on the forum going to know the status of an order unless they work in the sales department of wickett and craig? Ordering from a tannery is a little different then retail stores. W&C has always given me a time frame when asked of how long it would take and it always showed up roughly in that window. I inquired at horween a while back about ordering some leather and they had varying lead times as well from a couple weeks to 4-6 weeks depending on the leather ordered. I dont know how HO is about there time frames.

I would not get a LSZ either but wow that guys video is a pile of puke. Seriously some people should leave the video off. Would prefer if someone to badmouth something atleast know what they are doing. Oh and where are you located OP?

I dont know to be honest, was just commenting on the fact that he was using 2-2.5oz upholstery leather doubled up on the seam. When you start sewing vegtan the torque goes up considerably for that first stitch. It will probably help albiet not as much as a servo motor. It is a cheap and easy mod so worth giving it a shot to see how it works for ya. Plus practice, practice alot. Thats how guys like Wiz can chug along with a clutch motor (with these other mods) and maintain control. Now if you have a clutch motor setup for upholstery with a big pulley on it and a small one on the sewing machine its going to be hard to handle at real slow speeds but that isnt what it was designed for. Now a clutch motor with this mod plus a small pulley on it and a speed reducer or large pulley on the machine and a good clutch will help control considerably.

Yeah thats who I meant. I watched a bunch of his videos to help learn how to upholster motorcycle seats. He doesnt talk much but shows how to do things very well and is quick to answer questions that are posted to his videos.

Cecharo has a bunch of good videos but is also very experienced so he may be making it look easy. Plus remember getting started in upholstery leather is different then pounding thru vegtan or such so keep that in mind. Reminds me of the old adage for hopped up street cars, Fast/Reliable/Cheap pick two. Seems it works for servo motors as well.

The above ways are the fastest. On my 4500 if I want the back stitch to look nice I will cut the threads with enough extra so I can backstitch by hand. This adds a few to 10 minutes to the evolution.

No worries I am just a junky for checking out old machines and like seeing what members pick up.

Any pics of the 155 by chance.

Thats really nice. Should clean up very well.

These guys make good templates http://www.ebay.com/usr/joy6756?_trksid=p2047675.l2559 Ive got a few of them.Not free but fairly priced.

Thats not bad since you got table and motor and all that. If they are in decent shape and good sewers you did good. If ya had to sell them you would atleast break even I imagine. Is that a 29K60? thats the big bobbin one so thats good. On the 155 be sure to check out the belt and see what shape its in, its not too hard to change out and several of us could walk you thru it.

$50 each lol, yeah thats good for even a parts machine.

The ones in his area are both flat beds, look pretty good and come with tables and motors and what not. Ofcourse seeing them in person and sewing off would be the next step. If they are as good as they look the price is probably about right.

If it was me I would get the 155 if its in good working order, do primarily strap goods like guitar straps and rifle slings with 138 thread or 92 thread and save your money then when the time is right look at a used 3500. The 3500s are more expensive but are compound feed and the same as a 4500 just with a shorter throat. There seems to always be used 3500/4500s popping up for sale. Then you could always sell the 155 to recoupe cost or keep it to handle the lighter stuff. Thats just one scenario. Others will hopefully have other input.

The 29k60 wont do what you want to do and I am not sure on the price. It seems about right if its in good shape. There are certain things to look for on the 29k machines but I dont know much about them. The 29k are patcher machines, thinner thread but very good for sewing on patches and what not. The 155 would get you started if price is that big of a factor which is understandable. They are nice machines IMHO however they arent a holster/sheath machine. They will handle 92 thread better then the cowboy IMHO. If I am doing 92 thread for say guitar strap or similar Ill use my 155. If I am using 207 thread like on my rifle slings I will use the 4500.