Norton Custom Leather

EW I see a whole lot of pain & heart ache coming from that purchase

pvc tubing works great. you can stack them & mount them together so they won't roll off

copper rivets - take a Dremel with the drum sander, remove the top of the rivet conchos - if you have a drill driver with the ratchet function they will come rite off

Scooby, have you ever used acetone on leather? I have not is why I ask, tho i would caution using it. I have used acetone on many things like metal & oil based paint.

many will say until it dries. well thats nice, tho depending where you are in the world that varies. if you rush leather than yo will likely not have the completed project you want. I normally let my projects sit over night. then if i need to dye again i can..so over night is best

Fibbing's has a Deglazer that I use every time I need to refinish anything that needs the finish removed.

I am a marker of many different wallets. I float the middle on all of them. Do not confuse this process with belts 1. it allows stretch. The buyer will always over stuff the wallet with junk. 2. if repairs are ever needed you can assure that you will not destroy the wallet if you have to take it apart.

email me a picture, I believe I can help you

If you decide to get serious about a leather sewing machine, call SLC & they will help you into the right machine for you.

any time you do a project that will fold, you should do said project slightly folded when in production. this will reduce the crinkle. remember the fabric will stretch

that would depend on what you want to do with the front. any heavy tooling would require heaver weight leather. 3-4 oz is a good weight that you can mold & do light tooling.

if the show is 2 days you should have no less than 50 per day. this allows you to have the most common colors & designs. with color & design, don't be nervous about having blank & natural. you may be surprised.

like it. try Springfield Leather Company or Weaver & Ohio travel bag for the buckles. SLC can order from Ohio at cost then sell to you so you don't have to order 150 buckles. Ohio has a minimum limit on the orders

have to agree with billy, the buckles look fine. If you were entering a competition that required you to stay within the period then yea change them. If the customer wants something done a certain way I do it also, i will show them options to see if their mind changes. i have several customers that have told me to do that thing i do & they keep wanting more.

get ahold of Springfield Leather Company, they have the Chan Geer book that is step by step.

not cowboy. SLC has on site the cobra & some others. Great to deal with thats where I got mine.

sent you a message with my email

if you are still looking & would like discuss this i work with exotic leathers. email me nortoncustomleather@gmail.com

if you have a pattern or measurements you could get in contact with a tailor who should be able to tell you. if not get in touch with springfield leather in missouri & they should be able to help

that depends on the support that he wants. i am doing a sheath now for a customer that wants a sturdy low flex knife sheath. the sheath will be bout 26 oz. extremely thick i know. it is for an original bowie knife with a bone handle. the outside of the sheath is shark is shark & the flexibility will be very little where the blade is supported. 8-9oz i a good start & can make a sturdy sheath. best to do is get some examples for the customer to look at. see what conditions it will be used in. then decide on thickness.

yes but why would you? the antique dye is for just that, creating the antique look. airbrushing will not allow the look.

no! leather like skin it has moisture. if the moisture is taken away it cracks, splits then breaks. too much water it slips & breaks. i have dealt with this issue many times with customers who have tried to dry their leather goods. oh i used the wife's hair dryer for only a second. P.I.T.A. to fix. neats foot oil is your best bet in keeping it moist. right off the start use neats foot oil. it will save you. lexon is another great product

lets start at the top: 1. your knife will cut through your sheath. reason is you need to apply a center rib. this rib goes between the two sewn sides of the sheath. 2. most do not want the knife handle rubbing on their side, so you could lengthen the belt loop to drop the knife down. 3. trim your edges to be the same length from stitch to edge & burnish. this gives a clean look

late reply, apologies, work has been extreme. i do all my stitching by hand. seems every time I get centered on a machine I change my mind. who do you have for suppliers near you? I am always looking for the old school tools also if you ever see any. i use to have loads of them until my dad passed away & his girlfriend supposedly got rid of them. they were bought from man who was a friend of the family & the only actual cowboy iv ever met & lived in the country all my life.

only issue iv had is two ends bent on a lacing chisel. they corrected that right away