Norton Custom Leather

yes you should start 3-5 beyond the break. I would use two needles, one at each end & pass them thru the same hole. this is how most hand stitching is done. vary strong

sure a hair dryer will work fine & cheaper than a heat gun. high or low on the hair dryer will also work fine. tan kote will work fine, just a little more expensive

Leather crafting is also not my primary. Railroad Conductor first. If you have tools & make things out of leather, your crafting. So I would say yes for you. A true crafter can always find a flaw in their own work, I think that is why many of us may be on here. More so to help each other rather than find fault. Ideas outside the box.

When I do a project that I want smoother on the flesh side, I put mink oil paste on by hand, Then use a heat gun, ON LOW HEAT, when you see the oil soak in its done, Let dry over night. You may see a white color show up, not to worry, just take a cotton towel & rub it down. You can also rub it down with a slicker for more of an effect. I do this on all of the holsters I make Try on a scrap piece first so you know what your lookin at

Cantu, what portion of the hide are using?

Spectre6000, well I'm supposed to learn something everyday, if not I consider myself lazy. Thanks for the lesson, do you craft leather also? Oh yea, welcome to the site also.

? answered ………. no it doesn't, it always smells like that

good to see you Corb….what was your rate USS Trenton LPD-14, Damagecontrol, out of Norfolk……..spent MANY trips abroad

welcome to the fun

good to see you no here Fred

if you are wanting to block stain or dye from getting to a project you can use a sheen or resolene. you apply it prior to stain or dye, let it dry then when you stain it will leave the natural color of the leather present. i believe that one of these pictures should show how i did on a drag strap i built. if not @NortonLeather or Norton Custom Leather on Pinterest in my leather items section. If you don't find it let me know & I can email you a picture

Randy, i just seen this post by you, are you still looking for patterns of motorcycle bags?

I would say you got a piece that maybe didn't take to the tanning process well. Call Springfield & they will gladly help you. I had an issue not long ago. They corrected it by day 3. That was because the gentleman I needed to talk with was out until then.

Some of the books put out by Al Stohlman tells what tools to use when doing different projects.

I have tool duplicates. Can get you some pictures early next week. We can maybe get you a "Get it out of my way deal" As for suppliers, go with Springfield Leather Company in Springfield Mo. I dumped tandy some years ago because SLC has much better deals on tools & they are privately owned so they will work with you as a customer if you don't need a whole hide. Tandy's employees were great people, they just have to follow the corporate rules & guidelines.

Lockland, i live between East of Memphis. That can be carved on a new piece & with some light tooling duplicated. I have done repair jobs on vintage leather like the one you show, let me know if you want to discuss those options & I will get you my number. If you need further help let me know & we can find time to get together.

SLC has an edge border coating called Dura Edge. You can simply use water & a wooden dowel to slick your edges by rubbing. If you do this enough the edges look really nice.

You would have to put the creases in the leather then use an antique dye to get the look.

I like the knife a sheath both. Very classy

Those are good looking coolers. Welcome

Like the double lead for the dogs.

Nice bags. You could use a harness leather to change the look just enough to give the wow factor. Don't know if you burnished the edges or not. That too will make a big difference.

Welcome, looks like a good start. Like the rough look on the koozie. Sheath looks good also

Welcome, ask questions & we will as a group will help