Tugadude

Hope someone salvaged it. Very cool indeed. I'm only a hobbyist, but a proud one!

I think there is a functional difference. From Twinoaks post in the thread I referenced... The diamond cross section awl is sometimes referred to as a saddler's awl. One reason it's used is that it's pretty strong, and needs to be to push through thick leather. It also (when positioned correctly) presents a 'flat' face for the thread to pull against. This is important because if presented with the corner of the hole, the thread could cut the leather. Having a fairly narrow, but long (when compared to thread diameter) allows easy passage of the needle, but also closes up nicely. One can argue how much difference it makes, but I think it is clear there is a difference.

Same basic ideas apply. With an oval blade you still have two "corners".

This thread explains it pretty well... http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=4612

Thanks, good for folks to know. I think you have nailed the thread size and SPI, looks great.

Extremely helpful and the stitching looks great too! What is the SPI and what did you use to make the holes please. Thanks for taking the time to help!

Can't wait to see it.

You are in luck, Tandy has a video showing the proper technique. Go to Youtube.com and search for Safety Beveler. You will see that you want to skive parallel to the long edge. You could go perpendicular, but it is very difficult to keep the thickness of the cuts consistent.

When you say they are 1 1/2" do you mean the size of the belt leather they go with? If so, the ones I linked are the correct ones. If not, what width of leather are you using. These seem readily available.

OP said "Having a lot of fun". That's the best way to end a paragraph!

Are these similar?

Need to know size and can you ask the former supplier what brand they are?

You're probably going to need a pattern. Search the forums, or if need be you can probably find a pattern online (probably intended for fabric) that you can use. You said it is your first big project but it really isn't very intricate, at least the one in the link. You might try making a mockup with paper or some cheap fabric. Good way to nail down the sizing. Remember to back the zipper with a piece of leather. Makes a more robust construction for better performance. Once the size of the side panels is determined and the length of the main piece it is fairly simple to sew everything inside out and then turn it. The bag is big enough and your leather thin enough that flipping it right side out is easy. 3-4 oz might be a little thin for my tastes, but if it has a firm hand should be fine. You could also use welts to stiffen the structure up if it needs. Are you using a lining?

For once, I am stumped. I mean I can't find the thread I was referring to. I believe either Dwight or Ferg were the source. I take what they say with great respect. I believe a lot of folks use a type of copper foil or mesh and it can be found pretty cheap. Try googling RFID fabric and you will find it.

Agree on thin wallets, a groove is likely to weaken the leather and isn't needed. If you are using thick enough leather to actually put in a substantial groove, I think the leather is too thick for that purpose. I suppose some like chunky wallets, but the trend is certainly towards thinner, not thicker.

Depends upon look for the most part. Stitching grooves are helpful in that they allow the thread to "sit down" so that it is more flush with the leather's surface. That helps prevent premature wear. The potential downside is that it tends to flatten the stitch. Those of us who love the slanted, zig-zaggy look of good saddle stitching, aren't happy about that. There is also the issue of grooving one side or both sides. Tricky to line up the backside groove at times. Don't know if it is true, but I've read that grooves are sort of an American tendency whereas not grooving is European. I use grooves on some items and not on others depending on the look I'm going for mostly.

The rolled edge may look neater, and will probably wear better. I imagine stuffing cards into the pockets will eventually create wear on the top edges if they are simply burnished. All of the wallets I've made so far are burnished-only and seem to wear well. I generally add a crease to add some definition. I think it adds to the look. Skiving doesn't require you to buy expensive tools. So the investment is minimal. Are you planning to stitch the turned edges or hope that glue alone will hold?

Ditto on cardboard boxes, tis what I use most.

Saw a thread on the forums where one worker bought a decent-sized sheet for not too much money. I will try to find it. I think it was Dwight.

Maybe freezer paper? More resistant to bleed-through than Kraft.

Nice, I especially noticed the card slots. Could act as a wallet/purse of sorts. Interior looks very functional.

Classy, from design to execution it is well done.

Does the 2nd one have a swivel seat? If so, very cool! I also like the cat in the first pic. My cats are very interested when I'm working on leather.

Good luck!

Perhaps, if you don't get any satisfactory response, you can stress hand stitched in your own ads. Such as, "All straps hand stitched using two needles and premium, waxed thread, unlike some other companies which use machines." Or something like that.