Tugadude

Just my $.02 and I'm sure that's what it is worth. Do they say hand stitched? Or hand sewn? For those who parse language, there could be a difference. The other thing that comes to mind is that those who would pay a lot of money for premium leather straps might be able to tell machine sewn versus hand stitched. Some obviously won't. Personally, I would probably let it go. If watch straps were my livelihood and I was losing business to this other company (how would you necessarily know) I might be tempted to make a bigger deal of it. Life isn't fair, business isn't either. I wish you luck whichever decision you choose!

You might find this thread interesting... http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=12297&hl=%2Bosborne+%2Bfinest+%2Bedger

Yes, thanks! I am now fully versed on dubbin. Seriously, I can learn so much from sites such as this, so thanks.

Welcome!

Yes, the Finesse tools from Springfield will do just fine. I would get a 2 prong for curves and a 4 or 6 for straight runs. The pegging awl mentioned above is still available from C.S. Osborne if you choose to go that route. Good luck, keep at it as that is the way to improve.

BTW, this would have been a decent choice for your project...

First, the leather is pretty thick. You are also asking it to make a pretty severe bend. Did you try casing it and using a bone folder to help form the curve? You mention a thonging chisel. Those are for lacing, not stitching. You obviously can use them to create stitching holes, but it is not proper. Get a stitching iron. Lots of them discussed on the forum and Nigel Armitage has extensive reviews on his website and on Youtube. Weldwood contact cement is what I use a lot, red can. You can buy it at Lowes if convenient. Put on both sides, let dry and then put together. Should hold well. If you use a drill, still mark your holes with a straight line and tool such as a stitching wheel. Finally, awl work is a skill you should develop. With practice, it becomes automatic, you don't even think about exchanging the needle and awl. I thought it was ridiculous at first, but stuck with it and now it is easy, almost robotic. If you pursue it, make sure you have a good, sharp awl. I prefer one with a short blade, 3/4" to 1" max, but YMMV. Good luck.

Welcome! Nice examples of work, and there are a number of styles out there. If you like it and he likes it, don't bother with other people's reactions. There are a few areas where convention makes sense but lots of room to express yourself. Again, welcome, I love this forum too.

Oiling leather prior to dye is going to prevent it from absorbing as deeply as you might like. I'd hold off on oil until after the dye.

Cool stuff. Brooks fan myself, although most of mine are new. Interesting that we both like leather and vintage bikes. It was my attempt at a leather bicycle tool bag that started me on this journey.

TinkerTailor, I love the bike frame! I refurbish vintage road bikes and truly believe steel is real.

Why would you want to? What effect are you trying to achieve? Seems counterintuitive to me.

Have you tried Ohio Travel Bag?

I agree with the comments. If you get the stitching closer to the edge you can loop the thread around the edge to help resist stress at that point. If you do that, burnish first as the thread will get in the way. Looking forward to more examples of your work!

Welcome! Nice repurposing, now show off some of your leatherwork.

Very nice! I think your stitching would benefit from the use of a pony. You can make your own for a couple bucks. Helps free up your hands, increase speed and allows you to get more even tension. Good video.

Yes, that is what I use. Could go heavier but when loaded with cards it gets thick pretty quickly. Good luck!

Bleeder knot info...http://www.deepwatertack.co.uk/html/bleed_knots.html Doesn't appear to be a classic bleed knot to me.

I've had decent success with Eco Flow Leather Weld. You can put it on one side only but you need to keep it under pressure until it dries if you want it to last. If temporary until stitching, have you tried the double-sided tape? It is what I use on most everything lately. Not good if you want edges to stay stuck, or should I say not as good as adhesive. But for tacking pieces in place, perfect. No drying time. No mess either.

Craftool Freehand Stitching Groover Item #88074-11 http://d2ch1jyy91788s.cloudfront.net/tandyleather/images/product/craftool-freehand-stitching-groover-88074-11-1200_1200.jpg Or a really nice one... Craftool Pro Hand Stitching Groover Item #83003-00 http://d2ch1jyy91788s.cloudfront.net/tandyleather/images/product/Craftool-Pro-Hand-Stitching-Groover-83003-00-1200_1200.jpg

My Tandy groover is excellent. When going around curves it just takes a steady hand and remember to go slowly. Use light pressure, you can always make multiple passes. Also, if a stitch groove is all you want, it can also be accomplished with a straight edge and bone folder or creaser. Anything that creates a depression or channel for the thread will help it "sit down". I prefer to cut the channel, but it isn't 100% necessary. There are also straight groovers that you run along a straight edge. For curves, run along a metal washer or something with a radius that matches your project.

Inspirational as always!

Yes, nice work and nice save!

Great stuff, thanks for sharing! Photography is nice too. Love the highlighted initials. Can you please share your technique on the dark highlights? Not looking to copy, just intrigued is all.

You might try carauba cream after it dries. Works good for me.