TinkerTailor

I look at it from every angle and it is still flat, like all the other things on my monitor. Seriously though, there is probably stiffener in between the leather layers. There actually looks like 2 strips, judging by that ripple in the leather running around the center inline with the snap.

Beat me to it....I did that trick for a while, now I have a piece of plastic i cut from from some packaging that has a small slit in it, i slip it between the layers of leather with the rivet in the slit, pound the rivet like normal and then slip it out. It is from those packages that you can never open without blood, the ones everything seems to come in now....

Garbage, plain and simple. Is that leather or fabric showing through? It could be top grain but JUST the top. Everything else was split off of the back to make crappy belts stamped with "genuine leather" There is a big difference between proper FULL grain cowhide and top grain genuine leather.....The leather product mass manufacturers are really good at marketing garbage leather with misleading terms. This is one of the reasons why it is difficult for real leatherworkers to justify the price of their products. People don't understand how crappy all the leather in a shopping mall really is, and how much livable wage labour costs. They are expecting our prices to be what they are used to in the mall, or online, prices only sustainable by manufacturing with little regard for the environment, working conditions, worker age, or rate of pay. That couch was made to appeal to those consumers. People with champagne taste and a beer budget. -end rant.

I have used metal window screen as reinforcement in jb weld projects (not stamps)in the past, kinda like rebar in concrete. Stops cracks. I wonder if you couldnt embed some into a stamp? I bet if the jb was at at least 10mm thick and it was backed by some metal, with a screen embedded it would last longer. Imma gunna try it.

Notice the leather color in the pictures of a whole bunch of the expensive stamps, it is all the same seller.........They all used to have that turquoise background in the pic earlier in the thread.....

It is not the rpm that matters, it is the relationship between the diameter of the circle and the speed. A larger diameter burnisher will travel a further distance per revolution, meaning it will have a higher surface speed at a given rpm. This means you have to turn a bigger one slower and a smaller one faster to get the same surface speed. There is no magic rpm, however there may be an optimum surface speed for a given burnisher material and a given piece of leather. From this, and the diameter of the burnisher, you can find the optimum rpm. This is standard math for metal machinists, balancing material removal with surface finish and cutter life. They have big tables of the numbers in big books to reference. To my knowledge, no one has done detailed experiments on the optimum surface feet per minute for leather burnishing yet. In other words, turn it up till it burns, and back it off a notch........

A leather knife can never be too sharp. My bench cutting knife cuts 8-10 oz veg with one pass, and with very little downward weight. On the plow gauge, put a couple of layers of masking tape over the protruding unused sharp edge. The only thing it will cut up there is your hand.

Wide rolls of butcher paper are cheaper than wood tables and way easier to deal with than an angry wife.

Do NOT try this at home on yer sewing machine:

Reason I ask is we have people from everywhere on here, even Canada......and cambodia I think.... Thats a pretty cool offer, I would be chatting with you if I were closer. And not in Canada. With our tougher gun laws, I'm pretty sure shipping holsters and plastic replicas across the border requires wayy too much paperwork for me...... Good luck in the hunt.

A resist can be used for both. An antique is used to fill depressions in a carving with color to highlight them. Dye, is just all over colorant. The technique Dwight mentioned is a way to use dye as an antique. A piece may have an antiqued carving with a natural leather border. If you were to resolene the border before antiquing the carving it would prevent any color change on the border. Or the reverse, a carving in natural with a dyed border, resolene the carving and then dye the border. Say your carving has some lettering in it that needs to stay natural, painting a resist onto the letters by hand will prevent any dye and/or antique from coloring them. There are LOTs of things that can be used for a resist, and lots of ways to use them. All with advantages and disadvantages depending on situation. Rubber cement can be used as a removable resist in some situations for example. Scrap leather bags (such as from tandy) are great for experiments, and to perfect techniques that work for you. NEVER EXPERIMENT ON A PROJECT. Especially with finishes. Turning 20 hours of carving to trash with a dying mistake at the end costs way more than the bag of scraps ever will.

Where are you located?

The term you want to search for is resist. You apply resist to areas you don't want color to stick. Plenty of threads on here with info on this.

Definitely missing something. The hook part has a metal on metal wear line inside it. It looks like some kind of pin pivoted on that spot. The flats on each side of the ferrule look like a clamp went there. The position and lack of angle of the head make it nearly impossible to use the roller on the bench without knuckle dragging so it either must have been used freehand on straps etc, or the roller doesn't touch the material. My guess is it is for embossing a raised hump down center of a strap, and there was originally a frame to press the strap down on the roller, as it was pulled through.

In this pdf from 2006 there is a picture of a special order french corner box stitching attachment for an artisan 441 style machine. http://www.newknoxville.net/lookinhere/ArtisanSew/files/SparePartsSheet.pdf Could be copied pretty easy, and may still be available. How well it works is the other question.

One thing the alternating thread color does is prove without a doubt that it is hand saddle stitched. Machines can not do this.

If you are going far enough to cut a razor blade with a dremel, why not just make a blade out of an old hacksaw blade? Not the bimetal ones, the high speed steel ones. May even be able to make a decent blade out of a piece of steel strapping.

Both should be measured. The total length of the existing belt from the bucklebar to the most used hole AND the distance between the bars on the current buckle. This way you can subtract the length of the buckle of the from the total length to get the leather length, regardless of which buckle you use in the end.

Both should be measured. The total length of the existing belt from the bucklebar to the most used hole AND the distance between the bars on the current buckle. This way you can subtract the length of the buckle of the from the total length to get the leather length, regardless of which buckle you use in the end.

Yup, no prob. I have been a DJ for a long time. Used to play these epic 6 hour all vinyl daytime sets at electronic music festivals. They usually followed a theme down a rabbit hole with little regard for genre. Since we are on the topic of swing, here is another couple swing tunes for ya, down the rabbit hole we go: You are at a festival, You have been dancing all night, and you are now on the beach, the sun is shining. You are laying around, boat drink in hand, waiting with everyone else for the party to start again. This is the soundtrack: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JybLlsu_ZX0 Some of you may hate this one, I think that if Glenn Miller had synths and drum machines, this is what he would do too. If you had seen what this track does to a dance floor full of people, you would agree. I personally think this track is really tastefully arranged for todays ear: (could use a little mastering)

From the pictures, I would say the parts their look like they are for this machine. The feet all attach in the same odd way and look to be manufactured similarly. It looks like some of the feet in the photo may be damaged ones that have been replaced. There is one that is covered in needle strikes. I suspect their are a few that have been ground down to use next to different types of hardware. The two things in the upper left, My guess is they are left side pressers for soft stuff. The second one down is the exact shape of the dogs to the left, and appears to slide onto a dovetail on the left side of the fixed presser foot bar. Just below that looks like a feed dog of some kind, that thing is the odd man out and may go to something else. It is built too light duty for this machine. Is there also a hook inside the machine? Did you get 3? Not often you get a machine this old and rare with several spare hooks, which appear they could be usable from the pics. A monkey in a machine shop can make a foot for any machine, Hooks are a way different story.....

This should be the link

If both feet don't lift off the material when you step on the pedal lift or press the knee lift, something is not adjusted right. At any point in the stitch you should be able to stop the machine and lift both feet well clear of the material with the foot/knee lift. (this can cause skipped stitches if done at the wrong time) The bobbins and shuttles of these machines are basically identical and they make stitches pretty much the same. That corner technique should work. It could be that your feet are a little out of time if you are noticing a difference from videos, have you checked if it is to spec? User Uwe on here has some adler videos on youtube that show close up slow motion of a machine in proper timing:

Halfordsmailorder.com