DrmCa

Glove leather is very thin. For cases you want something heavier.

OP: Are you asking what size holds up over the typical lifespan of a bag/purse or what size looks good? 69 is sufficient for most purses. 92 is sufficient for larger bags. But if you want decorative look then you can go up several notches to 277 or 346 or above.

What material are ceramic blades made of? (Please, do not say, ceramics!) If they are made of anything like alumina then they can be stropped with tungsten carbide or boron carbide compound. If they are made of tungsten carbide then they can only be stropped with diamonds. It would be a waste of time to try to strop an alumina blade on alumina-based or chromium oxide compound because their hardness is pretty much the same, and there will be nearly zero grinding effect. TC tool bits can only be re-sharpened on a diamond wheel. They would chew through anything else.

That's exactly what I've done: +mitsubishi +thread +site:leatherworker.net and other permutations and combinations of my nick and other keywords.

I've gone through that prior to creating this thread but could not find the posts.

A short while ago I've posted a thread about binder hold-down screws bottoming out on my Mitsubishi flat bed machine. A short conversation ensued, in which I and a few other members speculated that the thread pattern must be either 1/8-40 or similar. That similar is what I am trying to find because 1/8-40 proved to be wrong, and I have to buy a different tap/die. But for the life of me I cannot find the thread using either my profile page or Google. Does anybody know of a better way to find threads that I had started?

Holds up pretty well, in my books.

Nice. What's A4?

Buy a thread gauge. Once you know the thread pattern you can order cheap generic screws.

The press is likely of 1950's vintage or older, so you are unlikely to find any useful info on their present site even if they are the same company as the one that had originally sold it. What are you trying to find out? The force can be calculated from the ratio of the levers, and the tensile strength of cast iron is a known value, so you can look up in online calculators how many tonnes it can deliver and survive. It's not worth $800. I can tell you that just by looking at the picture because even if you take it off its base the curved bottom frame will stick out below the mounting surfaces and prevent you from putting it on your bench unless you cut an opening for it or improvise additional legs. This is becoming too involved and technical versus buying a real press. Besides that the holes that the previous owner drilled into the frame, to attach the angles, weakened its frame and reduced the maximum force.

Adler is timing belt driven. Timing belts break, and when they do it sucks.

Neat! You may want to consider symmetrical double-stitch at the end of each seam, for harmony.

You likely nailed it.

What are you planning to do for sleeves if you only buy a flatbed machine? You are familiar with sewing textiles. Now you are entering leather market. It is different. The speeds are slower, stitches are longer, and each stitch placement matters. High-speed textile machines won't do it for you. If you are fine with having to have your machines repaired when electronics or pneumatics gives in, of course you can buy computerized machines. But IMO for leather a used conventional Pfaff-335 with a flatbed attachment will take you miles ahead both in terms of initial cost and running costs. I have no interest in talking you into that particular model, but a slower cylinder-arm machine is more flexible for making leather garments than any of the above computerized flat-bed machines.

It could have been improvised from metal shears.

Pfaff 335.

Looks almost like a knee mill. I wish likewise sized mills were available in this sturdy configuration. Mini mills are a joke.

That's what I am aiming for though mine will be a tad larger.

Much appreciated! So it's 3mm, give or take. I bet that front was one of the reasons they went under: due to the wastage of so much good leather.

This was for posterity. Others might find this thread and deduce from this site purpose that this machine could be used for leatherwork.

They might have lifted the foot bars, to cheat the 8mm lift.

Ole' Tex Shoemaker used to make these: What kind and weight of leather are they? I do not feel bad about wanting to copy them because the company is no longer in business and also because I am going to change the design a bit.

Not the right machine for leather except for probably making purses out of the thinnest leather. This machine was designed for high-speed work on textiles and maybe for some vinyl leatherette.

Post pictures?

I hazard guess that it may be used rather for marking parallel lines the length of the width of the feet, like for parallel oblong holes.