OLDNSLOW

Well good luck over there with your leather work.

I have found that to be the same here in the area of Tennessee that I am in, I can buy it here in the small tubes as well. I have been threatening myself that I should just go ahead and pop for the larger can and be done with it.

I use this first when sharpening my round knife or any other knife, then go to green for my final sharpening before going to a strop and it works great for me.

Flitz works wonders in several different arenas, I owned a mobile repair service many years back and we would us Flitz to clean the plastic head lamp lens. I would think it might be a little to gritty for leather .

The Glock line next to any 1911 and there will be times when a 1911 with rails will be requested, and as mentioned the Springfield line of guns. It would be very hard to put an exact item and say it will be the most asked for. Like in the Glock line there are so many in the concealed carry configuration other than the 19/23 that become big sellers when they are first introduced then it will taper off. Keep your eyes open here on the sales board they do have a tendency to pop up and when they do you need to act right away.

My application is similar but with a slight twist, I will dye the leather then oil right after then let all the parts dry for about a day. I oil the parts that are going to be glued but never see sunshine again and will be under a lot of flex while worn. When I apply the dye I use a damp sponge and use circular motion to apply it, for oil I use a dauber to apply it and have used all the other methods mentioned, you need to experiment to find what works best for you. You will find that there are several here that dip when dying the leather but not sure how they oil will be looking forward to following this.

Welcome to the board, what part of TN are you in? There is a lot to learn here at this site, and a lot of experience to be shared here good luck.

He is in a real high rent area that is upscale, things might have taken a down turn to be selling it so soon, and it would be hard to admit. What is sad is you see people come here ask for opinions and soon after the equipment is back up for sale.

That American made must be sweet it is what a Chinese tries to be, I bought mine to be able to engrave leather as well, logo's etc, The Chinese are sort of hit and miss as to how they come out of the factory, I was reading on the K40 google site this morning that someone received one without the software disk. On the site I just mentioned you can find a lot of info of the imported one's you can also find many other sites from there that share images already made and can be downloaded and used either free or minimal cost, that can be used on leather and maybe add to another product line the options can be endless.

I am in about 75.00 as this point and that is for an air cooled nozzle and the lens and mirror for the air cooled nozzle. I changed out the cutting table as well for an expanded metal table top that was around 15.00, the next upgrade will probably be the USB driver board with shipping from Aus will be around 125.00. If look around will find that some of the higher end models come with some of the upgrades that I am stepping up to hence the higher cost for a more equipped machine, there will also be an ongoing cost of deionized water that will need to be changed based on the use of the machine, the higher the usage the more often the need to change water

a few other little tidbits not sure how many people are aware of www.thingiverse.com it is a website for 3d printer people that make and post their ideas on the site. There are several makers who make different parts for the laser machines if and when you want to make changes to your laser, I found a guy in my location who has posted some of his creations as well as making a few items for my laser cutter. Hope this helps for anyone looking for ideas in changing or upgrading their machine.

the neats foot oil will darken the leather when applied, and yes before you bend the leather apply some water to it, and it will lessen the chance of cracking . If the leather has come from a distributor like here in the states it is most likely dry and needs to be oiled when being worked or it will crack.

Christmas is coming up if you wanted to gift that to someone and then write it off, and I have been good all year!

As far as getting one in some where in Europe you might check with ebay shippers or Amazon for pricing and shipping to you, now for the laser again. What you will find even by looking at the photos posted of the k40 machines, they all very just a little in build (old stock new stock) as for me I tried K40 whisperer and it became a real nightmare and still haven't corrected all the software problems it created for me, I am going to buy a new usb board made by a guy over in Auzzy land it will make it easy to run, but I do understand that a lot of people have had good luck with whisperer but again even the person that wrote it indicates it is experimental. I did upgrade mine with an air cutting laser head, removed the funky air duct for exhaust removal. The new cutting nozzle and the removal of the air duct made a big difference, in cutting and engraving but I have not done as much as would like at this point. I did not have a problem with mirror alignment and I checked the rails and they are square to the housing that is one thing that helps.

your welcome I hope what I had to offer was of some use or help in making a right decision.

I bought what is known as a k40 laser cutter, it is one of the basic lasers that come out of china. I had done some preliminary research on the machine prior to buying the machine and then understood based on everything I read that there was going to need upgrades to have it function like it should. A lot of the machines leave China with less than the advertised ability in terms of the laser tube having less power, or bad wiring, and or a host of other problems like cheap mirrors, cheap lens and so on. In addition for the most part they come with proprietary software and dongles to run the machine. So after some or all of the needed upgrades you will be in to the machine for over a grand to get it to do what you want. There will be people that would probably disagree with my assessment and others that will agree, if you go to google and search for K40 laser owners group you will find like here that there are owners from all over the world that have these, and some of those people have written other software to run the machine but it is a crap shoot if they will work, I tried one and it became a nigh mare. There are also people that sell boards and software that will not have a need for the dongle and proprietary software, again one of the expenses to upgrade. there is a machine that was announced sometime in the last year or so that people had the opportunity to be on the ground floor and pay for the development of the machine, sorry but I don't recall the name for it, but the features that it has to offer put the K40 and like machine to shame, it will have the ability to scan a hand drawn image convert to the language that drives the machine and the cut it or engrave it on the substrate of your choice. I understand that Dremel is going to be coming out that some think will eat the above machines lunch! I would recommend you do the research and decide based on your budget and your knowledge to work with the likes of Corel Draw, Ink scape or the like to create the items you wish to create, now also keep this is mind, there will be no doubt someone to come along and say I am full of crap and their machine worked right out of the box. Do your do diligence and home work before you buy caveat emptor! I hope that you were able to be out of harms way in the fires and all of your family and friends are safe.

Why some of y'all califerne fellers doen some dern nice works looks like for down here in the hollers of Tennessee, and glad to hear y'all er safe there, besides them fires creating major problems I see where ol Jerry brown is really worken the state over what with some of the things he is signing in to law. all kidding aside we left there almost 5 years ago and not sure if I could go home now.

I don't thin I can afford it but how much you asking for the Singer? along with the 5 and 1 Thanks Ron

That is truly inspirational, the question I have is, was the all that work done with a backgrounder stamp I think it is called? It certainly provides food for thought.

it is a good walking foot machine for light weight leather, you will never be able to do the 8/9 ounce leather needed for a good holster, and thicker for a good gun belt. I had the same thought and bought an older model only to find it wouldn't do the job. It will work very well for wallets and other thin items, but to do the holsters and belts you will need a cowboy or Cobra class 3 or 4 to do the real heavy stuff. You find that everyone has their favorite when it comes to either the cowboy or the cobra, but keep in mind that they Most likely come of the same Chinese production line with different colors on them.

he hasn't been around ina few months he might pop in a answer but I dunnow

that must have been some R & R time around 69,

go look at tuff products if you want more great ideas, there is reason more defined folks want leather, but there is also a reason why nylon comes in to play, leather cant fill all the needs.

there is at least one company doing them out of ballistic nylon although it may not have that many mags. I was looking at tuff products just yesterday, the reason for me looking up their website is that, the holster that came in the recent promotion from Springfield Armory had a ballistic holster for the XDe that I bought. Take a look at their site it might give you an idea as to how they do the nylon stuff. Think along the lines of bullet strap on a belt, anyway look at their site to see if it is any help, he may have seen someone with one of their setups and wants it done in leather, and if you have a cowboy or cobra sewing machine it might not be hard to do. www.tuffproducts.com