OLDNSLOW

yes I was using 277 top and bottom, and Bob I thought it was strange that it was braking thread with the brand new spool of thread. I went ahead and ordered some more 277 in nylon and ran it through a test where I was going from sewing on 10oz and the lower knot was perfect and also tested by sewing to the transition from 10oz to 20ox in a step and sewed perfectly with no issues at all. It didn't really surprise me that it did accomplish the job but with very little ease knots set perfect and no fraying or breakage. So know like I had mentioned I will continue to use the nylon and hang on to the polyester for another trial run at a job that I can experiment with a little, before rendering a complete analysis on the polyester.

I just recently has a need for some thread and ordered what I thought was going to be nylon in 277, it turned out to be polyester in 277. Everything I have done till now had all been done with nylon, and about a year ago I started to run it through a lube pot filled with silicone lubricant, I started to do this for two reasons, one was to help keep the needle a little cooler, and the other was to introduce a water proofing element, now does it work on either step, I don't know. but to bring up to date when I started to use the polyester I noticed right away that the polyester would not accomplish the task that I could accomplish with nylon, if I tried to step from one layer of leather to another the polyester would break right away, tried the same task with nylon using the same settings and the nylon would sew the two layer leather with no problem, It was really interesting to say the least. So still real puzzled about the differences between the two and for now will keep all my nylon and doing what I have been doing all along.

I was pleasantly surprised with an order I placed with SLC the other day, a little history, one of the main items that I have been making is lined belts with either Kydex or stainless strap between two layers of leather skirting. when I have had the leather in house I would cut it out of what I had on hand a side or double shoulder, I price mine in line with what some of the retailers that advertise in NRA mags or some other organization that promotes concealed carry. when I did not have it in stock I was buying from some Amish that are not far from me, however recently I was in need and they didn't have what I was in need of so I bought 2 75 inch straps from SLC for just about the same price I was paying, as for tools when I started to do this I was using wood punches and cheap hole punches from harbor freight. I was slowly building my tools up to what I have now to be able to use top quality tools and top quality leather and the customers are willing to pay what I ask for the finished product. look around at what others have done and you can find that there are alternatives to accomplish the end results. I don't recall who it is here on the board that was getting steal pipe cutting it to 2 halves and sharpen the half to make a punch just as an idea!

Fiebings not sure I spelled it right but anyway, they are known for adding a whole bunch of pigment to the colors when they make their stuff, so like others have said if it aint broke don't worry about it. However there is a whole bunch of people that like to be thrifty with their green backs, and want to make the dye go as far as it can along with the clear coats. the denatured works the best with all the dyes and water with the acrylic, if you spray it on look for runs and keep a damp sponge near by to wipe it down with, it will help and then spray again. I have taken to using a damp sponge to apply and a moist one to wipe down and spread out some more if it looks like it is a little bubbly. the bottom like is you have to find what works best for you in your environment, like someone else said there is no right or wrong you just need to figure it out.

cant beat that offer with a big UGLY stick!!! Take the time spend some gas money, make the trip, and get a holster and some 1st hand help!

very nice?

down south here in Tennessee it is the same as all the other guys said, and if it is the lower grade you can count on sceeter bite and scar marks that show up really bad. so buyer beware

ya there still there I called yesterday to order a few things from them, during the holidays they were probably leaving around 2 pm west coast time.

ya this one was my first and most likely my last unless someone wants to pay a whole bunch of cash for one, I do believe that money talks so if someone is willing to take a lot of money I will make another is not then this one is the last. and probably go the route of the 2 to 2 1/2 in route as well.

I'll have to look at that site, I have heard that the nylon is a little bit stronger but nothing to jump up and down about, so that is one part that is not a deal breaker to make the decision to warrant a switch from one to the other. still hoping more will chime in on the conversation.

so far that is all I have heard is that it is more resistant to uv light, well actually not the only thing the other is that if nylon gets wet it is more prone to lead to mold and degradation from that. So with it being those 2 things still hoping for more responses to the pro's and cons of which is better when doing holsters and belts.

Uses what, I have been up till the most recent spool of thread have bought Nylon to machine sew with, then I needed a new spool of some natural colored thread and bought some 277 polyester and now wonder if I should switch all of my stuff over?! I run all of my thread through an oil pot before it gets to the needle ( I guess that is the only way it can be done ) DOH, but would like to hear all the arguments pro and con, so pile on for the ride and lets hear why one is better than the other! Thanks

Well alrighty then Ill look forward to your posting!

how much will those run Mike? when do you anticipate having them?

If you were in Nashville, near there or even checked about shipping, there is a guy on craigs list that sells anvils and RR track cut to different lengths to function as anvils. I contacted him a long time ago about getting one then forgot about, then went looking again, and he is still selling them just some FYI, I had one I brought with me from Cali then sold it now wish I had it DOH.

I'm with the ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^mutt on this one ya live a learn, I would like to see more of how the arm motion is with one of these whacker sticks, I was think that some of those posted would make a good burnish tool / whacker stick who knew, well I guess some of ya did, me a good ol heavy maul works.

The Tandy stuff is like a sheet of paper that you cut up with scissors and place anywhere in your project, I don't recall the price it was something like $10.00 for a 8.5 x 11 package of a few pages worth.

Come On now, did you really to those?! Just kidding like all the others those are over the top, I have been wanting to make some, and have the leather for it just scared to take the jump, but I guess I shouldn't let they hold me back. I need to read up on how to do the piping on those and I am going to guess here that you sowed those inside out? But hay did I ask, If you really did those? Nice job!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Just for some food of thought, and I don't have any right now, I just bought a side of 10oz wicket and craig and haven't cut into it yet, but find some one around your area that does saddles or holsters and let them know what your after. I did that only for strap leather when I needed a real heavy section cut out of some skirting , now I did pay a little extra but made it up on the back end, just a thought and your down yonder in Tejas go over to hobby lobby if those 1 foot squares that are about 2 oz will work but go with a 40% off coupon and save.

Hobby lobby, of some other art like supply place that sells art, jewelry making stuff like hobby lobby will have the small anvil that your looking for. But none of that is really needed if you have a Lowes or Home depot they will have something, walk in look around and let your creative juices flow and think about what you could come up in place. I have had the railroad tie a mini anvil bought and sold more tools than a fool, take your time don't rush it.

Thanks for the reply, that is not what I charged I think I did mention that, but after taking inventory of what is being done my thought was that I did not charge enough, live and learn the hard way, so long as I don't make that mistake again!! And to add this was not a straight cut but a curved cut down to the back bone along with a double billet, so I have learned a lesson from this, now if people would be will to pay the price.

Josh is that like a Buscadero type belt that uses more leather or is it along the line of an 1 1/2, and sorry for asking as I don't recall the last rig other than it was great looking. And my reasoning for asking is I am in the end stages of my first, it is a double buscadero belt with both holsters undyed only oiled. When I first thought it out I based it on my regular pricing 70.00 per holster and 60.00 for a single belt all unlined at first. Now I have lined the holsters but let me add that this is going to be hanging up for display, so I lined the holsters with some goat skin and lined the 10 oz Wickett and craig and the belt that is about 3 belts worth of leather with a 3 oz liner. In my minds eye I can see where it should have been closer to 300.00 if not more, give me food for thought please.

very nice work please share more info weight of leather, type, vacuum hand formed, and if you don't mind what you get ball park. Thanks

I don't want to rob this thread, but have a similar question, Josh you have some very nice holster work, mind sharing what you would get for a gun belt and holster western style or anyone else that can chime in. thanks

you would need to strip the top coat finish before add the oil to the top side and you would be ok, and then refinish again with a top coat.