King's X

I have never heard about oiling after dyeing. The way I learned from books and what I learned from here, has always said to oil before. unless you doing that Belt technique, which I learned from Dick Sherer.

Give me a heads up if you come this way. Let's get together and work on some stuff before you head back to France. I'll have another box to send with you by then. Take care!

Just got my new magazine and found that saddle by Rick Bean. Absolutely Stunning!! Wow...man the detail and color. If you get a chance, take look!

Red dye all over the project, might cover it? Just kidding, Mr. Bruce is on the money with the OXA. Good luck.

Pino My friend, where have you been?? Glad to see you back here posting some pictures. Nice work. Happy New Year!

hey Larry Wow, what a job. I have an old set of instructions at home for a Tandy 'Regency' clutch purse. I can take a look later and see if there are instructions for you, but I have a proposition for you. Take a look at this clutch purse that I made for my wife this past Christmas. I tooled the outside and used a pre-made inside from Chaylor-Fennell. I started downt he same path as you, but quickly realized that without 'testing' the theory first, I was just asking for it. Big Papa Leather, a member turned me on to these and I saw a project that Hidepounder showed here that these inserts are awesome. Anyways, Kevin at Springfield Leather is now the US distributor for these inserts/products. I would ask him if he would accept the return of your products in exchange for a Chaylor-Fennell clutch purse insert. There come in variety of colors/leathers. I believe I used Kangaroo insides on my purchase. I know that I made another clutch purse for my sis and used a Calf leather insert. If not, then I would suggest you do a test run first and made a model inside before you commit to your final product. I sure would hate to piss you wife off. Don't we do that enough? Good luck.

I had to look at this again.....absolutely stunning!! I found my new desktop background photo.....sorry hidepounder.

I used the deglazer that is sold at Tandy one time when I had the same problem with Tandy leather; the manager gave me a bottle of the stuff. It didn't work, I returned the bottle and told him thanks for the help. I threw away the project and started again. Now, I changed to Hermann Oak leather and things are just GREAT! I was never originally thought to use any deglazing process so I cannot speak about it. What I wrote earlier in your post is what I do as a regular process. Sorry Just a tip: After casing and carving, you naturally remove some of the oils/tannage processes from the skin; you have to consider about put that back in before you dye or finish. a slight comparison would be when your hands dry out; most usually put on lotion. Same thing, except the skin your tooling is kinda dead! Again, experiment. do your deglazing, carve/tool and then oil before you dye? See what you got coming out. Before to know after trying it then have an 'O-s i t" moment after doing it to an actual project. Remember we are all learning.......so.....don't forget to share your results. Good luck!

Nice simple use of that geo tool. I also like your 'maker' stamp, but I might be a little bias. Keep up the nice work.

Just some additional information, at least for your R&D process. I made one of these 'hair blade' tools last year. I use the sponge brushes a lot when I would do woodworking, but since I sold all of my equipment, I have a bunch of these. You can them just about anywhere and in all kind of sizes. It doesn't matter what size. I have to look at them again, but I believe the handle comes in two sizes. Anyways, I carefully removed the sponge part off the handle and then the plastic holder. The place where the plastic piece was placed leaves a rather crude hole to consider it a pilot hole, but it works. I then figure out how many blades I want and measure the width and length of the gathered blades. I then drill out the appropriate size hole and glue the blades in with some epoxy. While drying, I just stuck the new backyard knife into a piece of cardboard/styrofoam until it dried. It works great with the exception of several things; one being that it is disposable. You can only strop the outside blades; unless you have spacers. The handle is fixed and does not move like a swivel knife The blades are fixed and cannot be interchanged. I know that I didn't come up with this idea, but I thought it would be appropriate to share here. Keep us updated with your Einstein moment when it happens; it will.

MarkB Looking at your site, it looks like there will be a lot of projects coming out of your camp. Congrats and best of luck/blessings!

I have some of my old handcuff pouches that I used...I believe I may have a single, double, open/closed pouches. They are old so be gentle, but if you pay for the shipping you can take them apart and make patterns out of them. PM me your address (and email address) and I can ship them out. If I have what I believe I do (memory is a little dusty) it should only cost $4.95 to ship. As for the gun, I will talk with you later to help you out. Good luck......I love a good challenge.

Thanks for sharing. Hobby Lobby has something like those thin small magnets. I found a 10 pack for a buck and half. Appreciate it.

I had one and gave it away to a fellow student when I started this craft. She is now a Tandy Manager in Arizona. I have another one handmade that carries only swivel knifes and stamping tools for sale. Good luck

Nice.

Maybe I can send you my Pro-Series Tandy Knife and I can pay you to drill out the hole bigger to accept the blades???

Welcome to the forum! Please fill in your stats.....at least where you are located at. Enjoy

Send me an PM and I will connect you with someone that knows about the maker who lives somewhere in the Northeast (or did when I heard the story). I am sure that someone here knows someone that has a friend that does machining work and can spit them out like we spit out belts and wallets.

baby girl should be proud of papa! Nicely done!!

Important question for you is what type of holster are you looking for make? plain clothes, duty rig, or hunting style? If you have a deceit holster making video; it should not be too hard to make a pattern. About 5 years ago, I had a tactical holster business before I sold it to a bigger company. Most of our patterns came directly from our customer's weaponry. I owned a lot of blue/red guns for models, but a couple of times, I walked across the street to a cabinet making company and had them make me a couple of gun models out of wood. Man, I can remember when the Surefire rail lights came out....what a mess, but we got through it. Especially since my holsters has internal locking systems before they came out by the top two manufacturing companies. I was also one of the evaluators on Safariland's model SAS tactical rig, so I have some holster background. to share some insight. I can probably help you over emails, if you have the patience? I may be able to hit up a gun store locally and get some measurements to help you? Let me know.

I don't know if you knew, but you posted this on an existing thread. You might want to go to the LW forum page and skip down to the "how to forum" and post your question. You might get a quicker hit.

Eco-Flo for me has been a learning experience, but her is what I do/learned with this product. It is not fully tested and continue to learn, but I have yet to have any dye come off like others have reported here. Carve/background ~ Allow to dry After allowing it to dry, I will determine the dye color. If I am doing a belt, I will do the following. In preparing the leather to dye, I will lightly wet the leather and dye it with Eco-Flo Dye and allow to dry over night. The next day or two if I have to corral the children, I will use an Eco-Flo antique as a final coat to fill up any empty or partially filled cells that were not covered in the initial dying process. I will allow it to dry another day or two. After buffing, I will use either Satin Sheen or RTC as a sealer and buff. Now, if the belt appears to be a little stiff, I will turn it over and rub in some neatsfoot oil and allow it to soak in and dry overnight. The next day, you should be able to feel the flexiability in the belt as you manipulate it. You can also rub down the grain down, if you are not going to line the belt. Any other leather project or the use of another dye product, I will interject the following after carving the leather. **If Tandy leather is used, I will use Neatfoot oil as my next step; it provides a slightly darker shade after application/drying. **With my current leather (Hermann Oak), I will use EVOO (extra virgin olive oil); no significant change in color. I hope I didn't confuse you.

I know I once considered a machinist toolbox out of wood. I believe Harbor Frieght carries a similiar model.