dikman

Ahh, holsters, if your friend wants to sew holsters with a machine then he's looking at a heavy-duty machine. A minimum is a 441-class. Don't even think of anything less.

In my (limited) experience the worst thing that can happen with older machines is to have screws missing!! I have scrapped one or two older domestic machines and have a wonderful assortment of screws from them, but so far none of them have fitted any of the industrial machines that I have! Good luck.

Advansite, have you read Wiz's sticky at the top? It is an absolute necessity for anyone starting out and wanting to use a machine to sew leather. Many newcomers who hand stitch ask the same thing, they expect to be able to use a similar size thread when machine stitching, unfortunately that is way beyond the capability of most of the machines commonly used by members here.

If that's ALL that's missing it's no big deal, motors and belts are readily available and you can probably buy the correct table for it (or make your own or modify a used table if you can find one). If you want to make it "original" then you should be able to buy all these bits from one of the vendors on here - but you'll have to find out the cost first to see just how much of a "bargain" you end up with. Mark, I must admit it does seem a bit odd.

Spare zipping??? Looks like you've got enough to run a zip from here to the moon! I have a few zips that I recovered from a tent I scrapped and it fits the large guide nicely, I just don't make anything that needs zips. Still, I might as well run off a few more, just in case. As for the nozzle clearance yep, I'll have to check it as when I set it last the weather was quite hot and now it's cold. In fact it's so cold in the shed where I have the printer that when I turned it on a couple of days ago the display was garbled and it said it was too cold to run!!!

Thought I'd print out the zipper feet, just to see how they worked. Came out fine, although there's a slight deformation at the top edge of the rounded bits sticking forward. Doesn't affect how they work though, and they're a nice snug fit when they snap together. Pity I don't actually sew in any zips.

So according to that chart my 51W59 was made before 1940 and the 111WSV77 in 1946 (that's assuming that the WSV's were included in the same numbering scheme, which I figure is most likely). By my reckoning that makes the W59 probably 80 years old at least.

Brian, I reckon putting them all in one place (3D section) is a good idea. If you don't you'll soon have the Mods giving you a severe beating with a wet flannel!

Thanks for the offer, Brian. I've printed out quite a few things before and never had this problem so it's obvious that my fiddling around with the file has caused the issue. The bobbin measures 25.67mm/1.01" D x 11.2mm/.44" high. I figure it needs a smidgin more diam. to fit comfortably. My idea is to maybe stack two or three bobbins per slot, which is why the lid will need a hole so it can be rotated to the stack I want and then just tip out those. Singer bobbins will obviously be a bit loose (smaller diam.) but should still work. I should have just made a new (solid) lid with a centre hole and 1 hole at the edge, I guess. I still want to try and figure out what I did wrong. It's an hour later and I found out what I did wrong! I used the "scale" function to lower the height of the cylinder significantly, which, of course, meant that it also shrank the bottom layer accordingly - down to one layer of filament!! I'm learning..........

Thought I'd experiment with this. I started with a top piece so reduced the height and punched out one of the rebates to make a through hole. First problem, it only laid down a single layer before starting the rebates and as you can see it's not fused together (too far apart), second it warped when I removed it even though I used a heated bed, third the rebates aren't wide enough for my Seiko bobbins and fourth I seem to have introduced some distortion while messing around with the file . Back to the drawing board (in this case 123D). Wish I knew what I was doing .

First time I've seen anything with a reference to "W" serial numbers! Nice.

I tend to bounce around from forum to forum sometimes.........

Don't know how I missed this one - I measured the original handwheel off my 111WSV77 and yep, it's 1/2", so it's a pretty safe bet that the 155 would be the same as Glenn and Bob said.

Of course! It's always nice to have a new toy . I reckon you'll enjoy playing with one. There are many free files available on thingiverse for all sorts of things - some of them even useful.

I like it (being a Trekkie from way back when).

I've moved one or two of these types of things . Remove the head, remove the motor (assuming it's a clutch as they're heavy!), dismantle the legs and it all fits into the back of my Subaru XV with the seats down, of course. So should fit in a RAV4. Take along some old blankets etc for padding.

Maybe you should have printed just a couple first to try them out? I wonder just how critical that sideplay will be, if it's a snug fit over the zip then it shouldn't matter too much?

Gary, as Brian said if you buy an already-built one (look for reviews first to see what people think of it) then all you need to learn about is the slicer programme that converts to the G code needed to print. I use Slicer, it and Cura are probably the most widely used. This part of it isn't to hard to master. As for filament it's pretty cheap in the US, just start with your basic PLA. It gets complicated if you start fiddling with the operating system!

A couple more thoughts, Brian, I measured my bobbins and the Seiko is 1", the others slightly under so although they'd be a bit loose (which won't matter) they'll fit the existing design. Not knowing the height I don't know how many would fit in each slot, of course. This would mean that all the existing lid needs is a hole in it for loading/unloading (to use the firearm vernacular ). If you made one specifically for the smaller bobbins, so it only held one in each slot then by keeping the central shaft long one could simply stack them on top of each other. Lots of possibilities here .

That would be good and might suit a wider audience. The Singer/Pfaff bobbins aren't quite the same diameter (which I'm sure you already know) so making it for the wider one should cover a wider range of bobbins. One other thing that occurred to me is that you could obviously stack 2 or 3 of the smaller bobbins in each of the slots, so if the top piece was made with a hole in it that could be rotated to a particular slot then the bobbins in that slot could be emptied out without tipping the whole lot out.

Thanks mate. Some of those thinners are......nice.......wheeee.

I just tried a search for that glue and nothing came up. I'm curious as it must be a fairly thin contact glue to work in that small nozzle?

I like it!! Only one slight problem (for me) - I don't use those long bobbins. What's the diameter of the holes, just wondering if my Singer/Pfaff bobbins will fit?

A bit of good old Aussie ingenuity! Nicely done Brian and thanks for taking the time to document this. A question - what is the red squeeze thingy you're using? I assumed it's for applying glue, but if so what glue are you using that's thin and doesn't clog the tube?

Brian, I really like that design, being a wheel gun shooter! If you create the .stl file I'll just HAVE to make one!! I'm beginning to think your talents are wasted on leatherwork.