dikman

I just measured the clearance on my 111WSV77 and it's 10 thou total (being a 111 class I'd say the bottom end is going to be similar to yours).

Yeah, replacing that cam doesn't look like fun.

Regardless of the pros and cons of doing it this way, it's a nice delicate job of welding! If I tried that I'd probably end up with a blob!

The felt oiler is just that, a method of keeping an oil coating on the fork/cam contact area. I guess if it's been missing for a long time and the area hasn't been oiled then there may have been excessive wear? If there is wear then replacement would probably be the only answer (could be a big job, assuming you could get the parts!). Not something I've seen mentioned before.

So, after such a good find what are you going to do with the SV?

My first thought on seeing the brass block was also a knee lifter contact point, judging by the scratches on it.The blue knob is interesting as my Pfaff 335 has a position for such a fitting and I've always wondered what it would be used for.

Also slang for hitting someone. Mike, however, has pointed out the more common usage of the term.

Well, if nothing else at least the paintwork is coming up nice!

Cbm, by following the adjustments in this thread you should be able to get it set right. It's actually not that difficult. Has someone been fiddling with the adjustments? It would be unusual for it to just "go out of adjustment", unless, of course, a screw has worked loose somewhere.

G'day Bert, welcome. That's an interesting looking machine (particularly from the back, lots of levers!).

They look pretty darn good to me, HC.

Very nice! Always good to have new toys.

Actually, I just realised what it is about the thumb break that bothers me - it looks clumsy, and clashes with the style of the rig. Josh is to be thanked, as by doing this he has shown what NOT to do with western-style rigs.

Whilst I can appreciate the work that goes into stamping and carving, there's no denying the elegance of a simple, plain design that is well executed. As for the thumb break, if that's what the customer wants then that's what he gets - but sorry, it just doesn't look right to me.

Thanks Wiz, I had been curious about that screw.

Elements of both? It is quite classy, but is asking to be used. What I like about it is that the ornamentation isn't overdone, some just fill every spare bit of space with something which tends to make it a bit overwhelming (and gaudy!). Looks like a lot of work went into it.

From what I can tell, comparing photos on the 'net, it appears to be a 1245 -6/01, although the stitch length adjuster looks different (may have been repaired?). I couldn't figure out why it didn't say Pfaff anywhere, but it looks like they've stuck the light and a label over the name (??). The motor also matches some I've seen on similar 1245 photos. As for moving it, I have a Subaru XV (Crosstrail in the US, I think) and by folding the rear seats flat and dismantling the machines I've got all of mine home that way. Lift the head unit off, remove motor from table, unbolt legs and dismantle etc - easy. At face value looks pretty good for $600.

This machine is likely to be limited to #138 thread maximum, with a lift around 3/8", so no holsters. A nice machine and will handle dress belts and probably gunbelts as long as you don't want heavy ones. Unfortunately, as OLDNSLOW said, to make holsters you have to jump to the next class of machine. The seller is wrong in saying it will do what you want.

Constabulary, to me in those photos they are made with the light source appearing to come from below (shading on the top edge) and the shading looks like a gray, rather than black. It also looks like there might be a slight "bevelling effect", to give greater depth, but it's hard to tell from the photos. I never realised the subtlety of Singer markings before!

It's not critical where this support contacts the machine (other than a linkage, as in your case). I made and fitted pegs to a couple of my machines and simply tilted the machine back until the peg was contacting the body of the machine in a suitable place, marked it and drilled a hole. I wouldn't be too impressed with yours either, and even less impressed with their response.

(I couldn't find a rolling-on-floor-laughing thingy).

Thanks Mike, most interesting. I recall learning something about this process a long time ago, but I'd forgotten most of it (didn't have any practical use for it). I know that some custom motorcycle artists still use gold leaf. The clear coat applied first when building up the transfer makes sense and perhaps explains why no clear coat is applied afterwards (which would simplify the manufacturing process). Parfektionisto, good luck with trying to replicate the original. Based on what Mike has said, with it being built up of multiple layers, it would be a very labour-intensive process and, I suspect, require quite a bit of skill to get it right - which could = $$$$.

Irfanview. It's free and lets you size them to whatever you want.

Looks good, Willie. That's really about all you can do with a dagger, sewing both edges gives it a balanced look. Kydex, plastic etc liners may protect the leather, but are not that good for the knife's edge!

Thanks Mike. My experience with waterslide decals (modelling) has been that you have to treat them very carefully once they are slid off the backing as they tend to be somewhat fragile. Which is why I thought they were using a dry rub system, judging by the effort she was applying in burnishing them down! I wonder if we'll ever know exactly what they used?