dikman

I guess it depends on how tight the bends on the wet molding are. I did this one where the carving extends all the way around on the back of the holster, the wet molding to curve the holster didn't affect the carving much but it's not a really tight curve. I would think tight/sharp molding could cause issues with carved designs.

Looks pretty good to me. All those videos showing tooling leaves make it look easy - until you try it!!

The best way to polish is with an electric buffer, you can easily get a mirror finish on steel. Just be very careful with anything that has a sharp edge as they can easily catch on the buffing wheel and the results can range from spectacular to scary! If you want to do it by hand then work through various grits of sandpaper, using water with the finer grits which will give a very smooth finish and then use metal polish.

I tried that cutting technique but just couldn't get the hang of it (probably just me ).

It's the AWL, toxo, the AWL that does the damage (blunt awls don't work so well). You're probably speed-reading again.

You need to at least give the model number so we know which one you're talking about, but in general if it's a domestic machine (even if they say something like "heavy duty") then it's unlikely to be suitable for sewing leather.

Yeah, that will work. I was thinking more about the metal, not wood. I would guess warm water should do it?

I doubt if there's an "ideal" design for a stitching pony, like many things they can be made to suit specific needs. As a general purpose one I think yours looks about right, with the design of the jaws allowing for holding different shapes. Mine is roughly the size of yours and I've made several western-style holsters on it (they can be tricky to clamp) and associated gunbelts. For the gunbelts longer jaws would have been nice but then they might have been a nuisance on other projects. As for clamping pressure, that will vary depending on the project, which is why the adjustable locking lever is good, just tighten or loosen as required. And when stitching long runs the thread WILL get caught on the locking lever!!!!

Another "environmentally-friendly" way is to soak the metal parts in molasses, it's an olde-school method for removing rust (and probably paint too). It's a slow process, but at least you're not working with hazardous products.

Looks much better than my effort! I would have put the clamp screw a bit higher, to exert more pressure when it's operated and put a spring around the screw between the uprights, then when you release the clamp it pushes the jaws apart. At least, that's what I did on mine.

Somehow I knew you would say that!

I have a pair of parallel-jaw pliers that I used when I worked as a technician, they are excellent for grabbing the needle when hand-sewing and don't mark/damage the needle.

In answer to your last question, I think it's safe to say that most on here have learned sewing machine maintenance the hard way - by finding a manual where possible, watching youtube videos and asking questions on here. And, of course, by just tinkering with them.

It will be fair bit of messing around but worth a try. I don't think anyone has fitted one to the motor before so it will be an interesting experiment.

The first thing to do is fit a servo motor, preferably with a small 45mm pulley. That may be slow enough to do what you want, if not the next step is to fit a speed reducer pulley setup between the motor and the sewing machine. There are generally two commercially available types, the box type you're referring to and a large/small combined pulley on an arm. But if you currently have a clutch motor swap to a servo! The one Wizz suggests is a proven type, but any of the generic ones on ebay will be a vast improvement over a clutch motor.

Some NP's will work with a speed reducer, but in most cases you won't know until you try it.

That's a nice bit of wood for the handle.

Yep, that's what I did, I put my feet on the base and I can turn/twist the clamp to suit my needs. Works well.

Road Agent Leather has a few videos on youtube, his method is to apply a coat of NFO, let it dry, thin the dye then apply liberally with a sponge (he sploshes it on!). It seems to work well for him.

That's an ingenious way of creating the curved jaws. A couple of years ago I bought a reasonable size bandsaw and I have to say I love it! Doesn't take up as much room as a tablesaw and in my opinion it's far more versatile.

3D printed a fan-duct flange I found on thingiverse and sat some aluminium ducting on it that was left over from our kitchen reno, it now sends the fumes directly into the overhead exhaust fan. One other benefit of the enclosure is it cuts down the noise considerably. I might try and get some orange perspex to replace the smoky stuff in the window, other than that I think I'll call it done.

Like its owner?

Excellent job, looks great!

Screw with no head? Sounds like a rivet, a photo would help a lot. If it's a rivet it could be drilled out our use a dremel with a ball grinder.

AlZilla, that "curling" of the brim gives it a used rustic look. Some people pay good money to get a hat that already looks used.