dikman

"Built like a tank" comes to mind. Beautiful job indeed. It may have been intended as a possibles bag but it's far too good for dragging through the woods. Plus a possibles bag would be easier to use with a softer floppy flap cover.

Doesn't matter which method you use to apply it, if the leather is damaged/marked the stain will show it.

The problem with a Ranger-style belt, as has been mentioned, is the overlap adjustment if it has to be enlarged too much (billets lengthened). I have two that were given to me where this has been done and not only does it look dumb/funny/stupid it has effectively ruined the belt.

Look more like pieces of art.

The new one looks very nice but that old one has lots of character!

Interesting video. Might have to make some but I reckon I'll pass on the kneading and just pour into molds.

If you spend some time searching on here there have been many posts written about servos. Should keep you amused for a while.

The 155 falls into a category referred to as "upholstery class" so should be more than adequate for what you want to do. For holsters you need a heavy-duty machine due to the thickness of leather involved. The most commonly used ones are referred to as class 4 machines, clones of a Juki 441. These have long thick needles, will handle thicker thread and clear 3/4" - 7/8" under the foot (most upholstery class clear 3/8", I think the 155 will clear 1/2"). One other thing to consider, it's likely the machine has a clutch motor and these can require some time to master if you want to sew slowly (which most of us do when working with leather). Replacing the motor with a servo motor, and possibly a speed reducer too, will make slow speed sewing much easier and may save you much frustration.

I broke a needle on my 4500 once, so it can be done BUT, I was sewing a holster that was just under 1" so was pushing things slightly and it deflected the needle so it hit the needle plate. My fault entirely, and about the only way you'll break a needle on these machines. As for breaking feet, first time I've heard of that happening, these class 4 machines are built tough!

You will be struggling to find any information on the WSV13. The SV indicates it is a "special version"/"special variation" (no-one's sure exactly what it stands for) of a standard model. Singer made a lot of these SV versions of different models but what they were for is anyone's guess. The W indicates it was made at the Bridgeport USA plant but that burnt down with the subsequent loss of most of their records. Having both would be nice (if the price is right) as a cylinder arm can be useful, but if I could only have one it would be the 155, it is quite highly regarded, is a reasonably heavy duty machine and feet, bobbins etc are readily available. You also don't mention what you want to make (If you say holsters then neither would be suitable!!).

That is very impressive!!

One can never have too many speed reducers!

If the layers aren't glued then what Dwight said should work (I've seen this method mentioned elsewhere) BUT whether it will be as strong as backstitching.......

I wonder if they'd ship to Australia?

REAL basket weave! Well done.

You must like making wallets..........

That's a very clever design. A neat way of converting the hand lever to foot operated.

Wiz mentioned RockyAussie and Patrick1 in his post above for the modified foot plates. There have been a few posts about them in this section of the forum. A 4500 should handle straps etc fine.

What he said. Or a lightweight oil. Or light hydraulic fluid.

If a Cowboy 4500 is working ok when you get it then the chances of something going wrong or breaking is minimal - unless the operator (you) does something stupid. These machines are built pretty tough! As for wearing out it's going to be a long time before that is likely to be an issue, you're worrying unnecessarily. Get the modified foot plate and feed dog, a necessity in my opinion, then you can comfortably sew with #346 down to #138 thread.

Good one, Bruce, for anyone doing quantity stuff that is a brilliant idea!

That fly reel cover is very neat!

Some of the leather is interesting, has a built-in scuffed/well-used/beatup look about them.

Replacing the Singer motor with a servo/speed reducer setup would give you all the control you'll need, and I suspect you could sell the working Efka unit to help offset the cost (maybe you can beat them down a bit due to it being 3-phase and requiring additional cost to get it running ). When you try the Singer run it fast and slow and as long as it doesn't make any funny knocking/clanking noises you should be ok.

Can't go wrong with a nice big pulley! While you might lose top speed to me it's worth it for the slow speed control when sewing leather. Good job.