dikman
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Everything posted by dikman
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Tallow and oil did not mix; beeswax helped.
dikman replied to SUP's topic in Leatherwork Conversation
Is coconut oil classed as vegetable oil? -
Well, that looks different. Saves having to do any stamping/carving.
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That's pretty impressive that they're keeping you informed of the progress.
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Tallow and oil did not mix; beeswax helped.
dikman replied to SUP's topic in Leatherwork Conversation
What type of tallow and oil? That is very curious. -
Has anyone used transparent/translucent leather?
dikman replied to SUP's topic in Leatherwork Conversation
Transparent kangaroo? -
Very creative bit of woodwork!
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Yep, but from my observations the common usage appears to be #69 to #138, #92 doesn't appear to be much of a jump visually (which is usually what people are looking at). So technically you're right.
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Not a good comparison, sewing machines and computers. Computer components tend to follow "standards", i.e. power supplies, motherboards, drives, memory etc can generally be mixed and matched and will work together. Sewing machines not so much. Other than some very basic components bits from one machine will rarely fit another, and while it might not be impossible to build a machine from various bits and pieces the work required would be enormous (and possibly expensive). I have some mechanical skills but building a sewing machine that way is not something I would ever contemplate! (And yes, I've built quite a few computers over the years). You can, to some degree, change a machine to use a different class of needle (usually by adjusting the needle bar to change the clearance) but there's usually a trade-off, it might affect clearance under the feet or needle lift or the thickness you can sew. This is usually done if the machine uses some obscure or defunct needle type and is changed to a more common type. Likewise with thread size, there is a physical limitation on the size thread a machine can use. It is often possible to go up a size (#69 to#138, for example) but it depends on the feed dog/bobbin/hook clearances, some machines can do it but some just don't like it. With one notable exception we're generally stuck with a particular class of machine for a specific purpose. That exception is the modified needle plate/feed dog that is now available for the big 441-class machines, it makes them far more versatile than they were originally intended for - but they still won't do everything!
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You could try using detergent (and water) on the stone, I've seen it recommended for diamond stones. When it comes to sharpening methods you will probably find any answer/method you want, and most will probably work!
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It looks to me like the sort of thing people will buy, because it looks neat, but will end up in a drawer with all the other unused things that looked great but were too much trouble.
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Sounds like a better idea. I just remembered that the fibre optic linesmen used them for dispensing alcohol to clean the fibres when joining them.
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Lilbax, have you read the sticky at the top about the type of machine(s) needed to sew leather? That is required reading for anyone looking for a machine. There's a lot of info to absorb but it should help with understanding the issues with sewing leather.
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Once someone mentions sewing holsters then a 441-class is the obvious choice, plus by using a modified needle plate and feed dog setup it will be far more versatile, capable of comfortably sewing down to #138 thread and lighter materials. BUT it won't do everything, you will find an upholstery-class machine (like the Consew) will be very useful to have too. Between the two machines you will be able to sew most things. If you decide you want to saddle-stitch a holster, then like JLS said the big machine will allow you to quickly pre-punch your stitch holes, giving you even spacing.
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Yep, if they're using Minie bullets then they'll grease the bullets themselves, if shooting more traditional round ball then they'll lube the cloth patches with it. And yes, rendered pork is generally called lard.
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I've been pondering the subject of tallow and trying to do what little research I can on it. It seems that traditionally tallow is made from beef or sheep fat as both of these appear to store indefinitely without refrigeration. When using pork fat it's called grease as the chemical structure of pork fat is different to beef and sheep fat and it also has a finite life. Tallow can be made from other animals - bear, elk, deer, buffalo - but from what I can glean none of them have the shelf life of beef or sheep tallow BUT I have no experience personally with them. Quite a fascinating subject, did you know that tallow was used for lubricating steam engines? Amazing stuff, really.
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You did well. When I looked at buying a machine from China by the time I factored in shipping, assorted handling and brokerage charges, delivery, GST (our VAT) blah, blah, blah it wasn't any cheaper than buying it here - and Australia is closer to China than the UK!
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Yeah, I used one for dispensing patch lube for a while but don't think I'd use it for dye. I can't see much benefit and the potential for making a mess (for me, anyway ) would be high.
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Looks like you've got quite a restoration project ahead of you, my friend!
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Ok, it's cooled enough to get an idea of what it's like, I can push my finger down into (with just a little bit of force) so it's pretty close to what I wanted i.e. like commercial paste waxes. I wouldn't mind it a little bit thicker but I'll try it as it is first. Before I had to scrape the mix out and apply heat to the leather to rub it in. I don't think I needed to add the baby oil as I reckon the lanolin grease would have been enough to soften the original mix, as it was I had to add nearly a third in volume of beeswax to start thickening it. deboardp, I think you might be able to achieve what you want using the same ingredients (which is what Colorado use). Start with, say, 80% tallow, 20% beeswax (just weigh them out as a starting point) and add a small amount of lanolin, if it's liquid then measure it out. so you know how much you've used. Melt it together then put a few drops onto a cool surface, once it's cooled down push it with your finger to check the consistency. You should be able to adjust the consistency by varying the amount of lanolin. If you think it needs too much lanolin for what you require then reduce the beeswax, which means you'll need less lanolin. Make very small quantities until you get the mix right. Reading Colorado's story about how they got started, I suspect they began with tallow and added lanolin to soften it, then added a small amount of beeswax to stiffen it back up. This also lets them advertise that it contains beeswax, which always sounds good to anyone looking for a leather conditioner. I forgot to add that some of the Aussie conditioners add a few drops of eucalyptus and/or tea-tree oil to give them a fragrance.
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Pretty well. I've just re-mixed it, waiting for it to cool, tried a couple of drops on a plate to cool it and it looks promising.
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Sorry mate, I just wing it until I get what I want. Initially I tried measuring parts but I didn't write them down (I thought my memory was better than it is!) so don't bother. I think it's called "experience".
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In that case there's not much beeswax in it! Mostly tallow. I have a mix that I use for leather, it's beeswax, tallow and a little bit of baby oil (mineral oil) from memory. It's pretty stiff and while it softens slightly in a hot sun in doesn't go anywhere near melting. So, today I decided to remix it to soften it slightly by adding a little bit of lanolin grease and a bit more baby oil. It worked - too well! It's what one might call semi-liquid, too runny for my liking, looks like I'll be adding more beeswax. All good fun.
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That Colorado stuff is sort of what many on here have been saying to use - tallow, beeswax and some sort of oil to thin it out, in this case lanolin. If it is soft enough to spread then the bulk of it must be lanolin, as while tallow has a relatively low melting point beeswax does not and once you start adding it the mixture will thicken/stiffen very quickly. I see Sup just said the same thing. Even the Colorado add said "just a bit of beeswax", so it's mostly lanolin and tallow. In my experiments I started off with beeswax and found I had to add a LOT of oil to make it softer, as Sup has said.
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Sup, I came to the same conclusion the other day. The vast majority of commercial leather treatment products, judging by the MSDS of those I've looked at, use primarily petroleum-derived products, with smallish amounts of beeswax and/or lanolin and other things added. The Germans developed Ballistol (Ballistic Oil) during WW1 to use on military leather (boots etc) and continued to use it during WW2. As a product it's still in use today and guess what, it's almost pure mineral oil, with just a few minor things added primarily to make it smell nice! It seems to me that a mixture of beeswax and mineral oil should solve deboardp's problems - no animal smell and no animal matter used so pure vegan, pure mineral oil can be ingested so safe for people and the oil doesn't go off so should last indefinitely (or at least a very long time). Ticks all the boxes.
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dboardp, you won't use tallow because of the "animal" smell but you're happy to use lanolin? Lanolin smells a lot stronger than my (sheep) tallow. I also have some lanolin grease and again, it smells very strong compared to my tallow. I also have a can of spray lube that is lanolin-based and anything I spray it on smells like sheep!