dikman

What Chuck said, I doubt if it's the actual airbrush that's problem, even the "cheap" ones these days are pretty good. I have several () and quality-wise they're fine. Diesel, I also bought one of those cordless ones just 'cos I didn't have one. No problems with the airbrush. I read several reviews on modelling websites first and in general they were happy with them.

The detail work on the eagle is awesome. Nice touch on the knife guard, looks like eagle talons on the ends.

I bought a hand-cranked 201 (same machine) many, many moons ago, before I got into leatherwork. When I had to make some holsters I soon learned it wasn't suitable for sewing leather! (A steep learning curve followed!!). What I did use it for was pre-punching the stitching holes, in ONE thickness of leather only, which gave me a neat, evenly-spaced guide to use the awl when I folded and glued up the holster. The same process would work for you BUT it is not designed to sew leather, the same with virtually any domestic machine irrespective if they are called "heavy-duty", "semi-industrial", "suitable for leather" etc. They are domestic machines intended for sewing material. While this is a nice-looking machine, with a well-made speed reduction setup, it is not what you need.

Strictly speaking it's not "Damascus", the correct term is pattern-welded blades. These were developed in several countries and as Chuck said were originally intended to make high-quality steel go further by mixing with poorer quality iron. This was the reasoning behind Viking swordmaking. It can be argued that the zenith of this process was reached by the Japanese with their forging skills. They combined softer steel to give flexibility and a shock-absorption backing to their extremely hard cutting edges. The original "Damascus" blades were actually made from Wootz steel, a crucible steel that was made by melting the iron in sealed crucibles containing wood/ leather etc, which provided the carbon to create steel. This process provided a more homogenous uniform structure to the steel but could still provide a pattern when etched. This Wootz steel was made primarily in India and imported by various places, including Damascus, to make blades. One or two modern knifemakers have experimented with making Wootz steel but it's far easier to forge pattern-welded blades from modern metals.

Made it myself. A butcher gave me some suet and I chopped it up and cooked it (slowly) in a crockpot/slow cooker for a few hours. At the end I had a clear liquid and lots of hard crispy bits, I filtered the bits out and when it cooled I had this lovely milky-coloured block.

My tallow, rendered from suet from sheep, doesn't smell and so far has survived many years of stinking hot summers and cold winters stored in an uninsulated small shed. I've used it in various concoctions, mixed with beeswax, linseed oil, neatsfoot oil, olive oil, baby oil etc and so far it has remained stable. Just sayin'.......

I can't see anything wrong, looks fine to me.

Very nice job on the sheath. As for the blade size, I made a small round knife from a worn out half-round blade from my multi-tool (so it's about the same size as yours but a bit thinner) and I find it a nice size to use.

I have an old model 335 that was set up for binding, I initially wanted it for normal sewing so bought a replacement needle plate and feet, and while it didn't have an "oscillating" feed dog it worked ok. I've since restored it to a binder. My suggestion is unless a) you want a binder or b) it's very cheap then look for another machine if you want to do "normal" sewing.

Using tallow I can understand as it's fat that has been rendered and is pretty stable (doesn't go rancid). I don't think I'll be trying pork fat, however, I've seen a few "recipes" for various treatments and none have mentioned using pork fat. Same with lard (lard is for cooking with as far as I'm concerned).

Well, that's certainly different and doubtless quite unique. Well done.

I rewired the transformer to make a spot welder for attaching the solder tags to batteries. Haven't used it since I built it.

"Built like a tank" comes to mind. Beautiful job indeed. It may have been intended as a possibles bag but it's far too good for dragging through the woods. Plus a possibles bag would be easier to use with a softer floppy flap cover.

Doesn't matter which method you use to apply it, if the leather is damaged/marked the stain will show it.

The problem with a Ranger-style belt, as has been mentioned, is the overlap adjustment if it has to be enlarged too much (billets lengthened). I have two that were given to me where this has been done and not only does it look dumb/funny/stupid it has effectively ruined the belt.

Look more like pieces of art.

The new one looks very nice but that old one has lots of character!

Interesting video. Might have to make some but I reckon I'll pass on the kneading and just pour into molds.

If you spend some time searching on here there have been many posts written about servos. Should keep you amused for a while.

The 155 falls into a category referred to as "upholstery class" so should be more than adequate for what you want to do. For holsters you need a heavy-duty machine due to the thickness of leather involved. The most commonly used ones are referred to as class 4 machines, clones of a Juki 441. These have long thick needles, will handle thicker thread and clear 3/4" - 7/8" under the foot (most upholstery class clear 3/8", I think the 155 will clear 1/2"). One other thing to consider, it's likely the machine has a clutch motor and these can require some time to master if you want to sew slowly (which most of us do when working with leather). Replacing the motor with a servo motor, and possibly a speed reducer too, will make slow speed sewing much easier and may save you much frustration.

I broke a needle on my 4500 once, so it can be done BUT, I was sewing a holster that was just under 1" so was pushing things slightly and it deflected the needle so it hit the needle plate. My fault entirely, and about the only way you'll break a needle on these machines. As for breaking feet, first time I've heard of that happening, these class 4 machines are built tough!

You will be struggling to find any information on the WSV13. The SV indicates it is a "special version"/"special variation" (no-one's sure exactly what it stands for) of a standard model. Singer made a lot of these SV versions of different models but what they were for is anyone's guess. The W indicates it was made at the Bridgeport USA plant but that burnt down with the subsequent loss of most of their records. Having both would be nice (if the price is right) as a cylinder arm can be useful, but if I could only have one it would be the 155, it is quite highly regarded, is a reasonably heavy duty machine and feet, bobbins etc are readily available. You also don't mention what you want to make (If you say holsters then neither would be suitable!!).

That is very impressive!!

One can never have too many speed reducers!

If the layers aren't glued then what Dwight said should work (I've seen this method mentioned elsewhere) BUT whether it will be as strong as backstitching.......