dikman

I did a bit of searching on making dye from acorns and it seems all you do is simmer them for about an hour, but it has to be done several times. It's Spring here so it'll be a few months before the acorns appear but I have oak trees close by so I might collect some and give it a go, out of curiosity.

The model number gives it away, it is a clone of the Pfaff 335. The 335 is primarily sold as a binder, the one I found searching is set up for that, as DieselTech said, and won't be suitable for what you want to sew. What you need is a standard upholstery-class machine, probably a flatbed. Keep looking.

So it's obviously something in the leather itself. It would be interesting to carry out a few tests on it but it's all become mere conjecture now as it's now in a place so safe that it it can't be found.

I have the same problem! Once I get interested in something I tend to collect things! I sort of got my setup on the cheap, I already had a spare table/servo so just bought the 441 head and adapted the table to it. Works for me. Note that if you buy the needle plate/feed dog combo sold by a couple of members on here the big 441 can sew thinner materials with lighter thread. It won't replace a decent upholstery-class machine but it makes it more versatile.

You're quite right of course, Constable, some of those old machines can certainly do the job but I deliberately didn't mention them because I didn't want to confuse the poor lad!

Once someone mentions holsters it makes the machine choice easier - because there is very little choice! Either a 441-class machine or one of those "one-arm bandits", such as the Cowboy Outlaw. Nothing else can handle the heavy thread, has the clearance under the feet or the sheer punching power needed.

TomG, that book sounds interesting. Boiling acorns? Is that all there is to it? I wouldn't mind giving it a try.

I think you're wise to give this a miss. If this is basically going to be your main machine then my advice is to buy a "proper" walking foot set up to do what you want. Don't get fixated on having a "brand" name, there's nothing wrong with buying a clone from a reputable dealer. Buying used is fine IF you have some idea what you're doing - I didn't but I bought them cheap and learned a lot!

That is an interesting idea, using a fishing reel to control the tension. Could be more difficult to set up (and look funny) but a large baitcaster reel should work well, they generally have very good drag systems. If I had a Tippman Boss I would do it, just 'cos......

Me too. Not worth the risk, if something went wrong you'd kick yourself for being impatient.

I don't know about this model but the Pfaff binding models have a back-and-forth motion for the (smooth) feed dog, not the normal reciprocating motion with a toothed dog. Changing the feet and needle plate is easy, the feed dog motion not so easy, IF it can be altered. My advice would be to get a machine that is set up to do what you want to sew. That Tysew looks like a reasonable machine, you just need to make sure it will handle the thread size you want to use and has the clearance under the feet.

Hi Mike and welcome, I must admit the above statement has me puzzled, oil and water generally don't mix too well.

Wow, could be a case of "find the leather"! Doesn't set a very high standard for a replacement, anything you make has to be better. Reminds me of my Triumph "genuine leather" saddlebags, they started splitting at the folds and delaminating. As Tony said, reminded me of some version of leather particle board.

One post says one machine, other post refers to several, poor spelling in other post, no photos or details of machines in either post (and not asking for help to post them) - not off to a good start. Perhaps I'm being unduly harsh but these days one tends to become easily suspicious.

I've got a couple of those, used to use one at work many years ago. They're much better to use than more "traditional" staplers.

In that video I have to question whether what he does is any different to just dampening the edge with water because he wipes it off almost straight away.

0630 - that's a bit uncivilized. That red car looks like it's run into the tree.

Ah yes, spalted maple makes beautiful handles! Nicely done.

Besides your problem loading pics I don't understand what's wrong, from your description it sounds like your stitches are ok?

I sometimes feel the same way. I have a nice collection of pocket knives but I can't carry one without a bloody good reason or I'll be charged with carrying an offensive weapon! Such is the parlous state of laws in Australia. That boot knife is a great way to carry a knife if you wear boots, it doesn't get in the way but is readily available when needed. Oh, and I didn't mention that I like the stag handle, they just look "right" on a knife.

Nice job on both, the colour sort of matches the handle. As an aside, that knife would get you arrested here.

One thing I would not do is try and remove the leather. Given its age and how thin it is it's likely to be very brittle and will probably tear. As for glues, you could try shellac again or perhaps a very thin layer of contact cement (maybe the water-based type if you're concerned about solvents).

I still consider myself a novice at leatherwork but my first thought on reading your post was "hard leather so bigger needle needed".

Speaking of mineral oil, I recently bought an electric shaver and the instructions mentioned regular oiling of the cutters, so naturally I looked up the MSDS of the commercial oils. Guess what, it's mineral oil! This stuff is turning into a "wonder oil" for many things - leatherwork, firearms, shavers, baby products, the list keeps growing.

Whatever they want it to? It's a very vague term but sounds good to the uninformed. Based on looking at the MSDS for many such products it's a safe bet that the major constituent of virtually all of these products is the ubiquitous mineral oil. Probably the cheapest bulk oil for them to use. Add (very) small amounts of lanolin, beeswax or some other natural product, along with something to make it smell nice, and you have a relatively cheap-to-make product that is often described as "all-natural ingredients" and can be sold for a high profit margin.