dikman

This machine is designed primarily as a binder, only get this if you specifically want a binder. I suggest you keep looking.

Nothing like a new toy arriving!

I'd say it's a clone of a Pfaff 335 (the 335 in the model number is a giveaway). It's also a binder, so if you want to use it as a "normal" machine you will have to change the feet and the needle plate (and possibly feed dog?). It also probably has the backwards/forwards feed dog, not the usual oscillating feed dog. Kwok Hing should have some feet, plates etc, they did for my old-casting 335.

I've been thinking of making a dress belt but I'd like to have another go at carving at the same time. Stohlman's book Belts Galore has an oak leaves and acorns pattern which looked nice. Then I thought (always dangerous!) could I use my new laser engraver to very lightly etch the pattern to use as a cutting guide, rather than the usual tracing method? My Stohlman book is a .pdf so it wasn't too hard to copy and paste the pattern into photoshop to make it a suitable size and get rid of the stippling that he draws in. A trial run on some cardboard shows that it should work. There are two problems, however, the pattern is only a short section and has to be repeated several times to make up the length of the belt. Locating the pattern accurately each time is going to be tricky and I will need a jig of some sort so the belt can be moved along within the laser's frame and not move out of alignment. I whipped up an adjustable guide thingy out of plywood that should work (not pretty but the leather doesn't care!) and magnets around the edges of the board should keep it in place. While writing this it suddenly occurred to me that as my engraver has a bed width of 400mm I could join two or three of the pattern elements in photoshop so I could engrave the longest run in one go, this will minimise the joins I need to make. Hmmm. Lots of experimenting needed (using cardboard) to work out how to accurately locate the laser beam each time. Has anyone tried anything like this?

They don't have an oil reservoir so nothing to spill. Plenty of padding on the seat and sit it there, you could lay it down (carefully) on the padding if necessary. If you have to carry it in the back just make sure you have lots of padding and try and strap it down or wedge it so it can't slide around.

Won't poking a traditional diamond-shaped awl through the round hole help to give you the effect you want?

Mike beat me to it, I pre-punch my holes using a sewing machine (gives me even spacing) and then use an awl to give the nice diamond shape to the holes. I also do as TomE said and pull the thread back towards me to reduce the possibility of piercing the thread already in the hole (I learned that the hard way!!!).

I haven't done much with mine but the intention was to use #277 (heaviest thread I could find here) on holsters, but the beauty of the narrow plate set is it also sews #138 just fine. Not bad for a big lump of a machine like the 4500! I have other machines for #69 thread.

I bought the narrow plate set from RockyAussie and haven't seen any need to take them off, they work well for everything I'm likely to do.

It's easy to get carried away with shiny new toys!

You may have a problem doing this, if I remember correctly on these models the end bearing is actually part of the handwheel, unlike most models where the bearing is fitted into the main body casting.

On my list of stuff when I'm next near the plastics shop. Tried some aluminium, it cut through the powdercoating and while it etched the ally it wouldn't cut very deep (also what I expected). Lots of other materials to experiment with.

I made a maker's stamp using jarrah, a dense Australian hardwood. Lots of charring, smoke and smell! It actually worked, inasmuch as the fine detail was there but I overlooked the fact that structurally the wood is very delicate and the lettering fell apart as soon as I touched it. Next was some Zenolite, this is a hard perspex with a thick coloured acrylic coating in this case white. It worked beautifully while engraving the white coating but once it burned through that and into the clear perspex it got interesting. The laser went through the perspex and started burning into the wood layer underneath. I had read that it won't cut clear perspex so this just confirmed it. The smell was not good even though I had a fan blowing over it next to an open door. I have an old kitchen rangehood that I'll rig up as an exhaust fan as in wet weather I can't keep the door open. All good fun.

Geez, you're becoming paranoid about the machine! I haven't read too many reports of people having to replace busted bits on these machines (actually, I can't think of any off-hand).

I bought 6 extra ones - then found the 6 I already had in another draw! Oil, you can either get the Lillywhite oil or just get some light hydraulic oil (ISO 32), it's basically the same stuff.

Very nice work, Tim, those big pulleys should give very slow speed! Scott, if you've got a a butcher block that thick then by all means give it a try (but I would still put the angle iron underneath).

Started playing with the engraver today, I was printing a test grid on 10mm plywood and thought it was producing a lot of smoke so stopped it and found a few holes burnt through!! Luckily I'd put a sheet of steel on the table first and this was a bit scorched! I also tried a piece of aluminium, it engraved ok but I don't think it will cut through (doesn't matter anyway, engraving only is fine). I'm going to try and cut a maker's stamp, maybe out of hardwood first, to see how it goes (lots of smoke ahead!). I bought a cheap Toshiba i5 laptop some time ago and it's perfect for this, I can leave it down in the shed with the engraver.

A good plywood should be stronger (particularly if you laminate a couple of layers) and I agree with kgg about using metal angle iron underneath to give additional support, given the weight of the head unit. I used the same idea on one of my tables.

Looks good to me! You did a nice job on the rose.

Audio on that video is shocking!!!! They must have some pretty impressive circuitry in the controller to do that and I'm guessing it's got a hefty price tag.

I'm sure you'll love it! The class 4 machines are built like tanks, are almost bulletproof and will sew through almost anything - but they are quite capable of breaking these heavy needles (so don't force thick items through them!!).

Not just America, my friend.

In that case from what I've read on here over the years either dealer should be fine. As JLS said to all intents and purposes they are the same machine.

If it was me I'd clean off as much grease as I could (at least it probably kept things from rusting!) and try and get some oil into the linkages. I doubt if grease would get into all the linkage pivot points as well as a light sewing machine oil could. There's a reason they put those little oil holes on some of the linkages. As for the thread . Perhaps the upholstery company needed a lubricated thread for something they were sewing? If you don't like it just replace the thread, not many on here use (or need) a lubricated thread.

My take is it comes down to price and what is the best value, i.e. do you get any extra goodies thrown in? Either of those will do the same job.