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dikman

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Everything posted by dikman

  1. dikman
    What he said. Or a lightweight oil. Or light hydraulic fluid.
  2. dikman
    If a Cowboy 4500 is working ok when you get it then the chances of something going wrong or breaking is minimal - unless the operator (you) does something stupid. These machines are built pretty tough! As for wearing out it's going to be a long time before that is likely to be an issue, you're worrying unnecessarily. Get the modified foot plate and feed dog, a necessity in my opinion, then you can comfortably sew with #346 down to #138 thread.
  3. dikman
    Good one, Bruce, for anyone doing quantity stuff that is a brilliant idea!
  4. dikman

    Finished...

    dikman replied to yuma's topic in Show Off!!

    That fly reel cover is very neat!
  5. dikman
    Some of the leather is interesting, has a built-in scuffed/well-used/beatup look about them.
  6. dikman
    Replacing the Singer motor with a servo/speed reducer setup would give you all the control you'll need, and I suspect you could sell the working Efka unit to help offset the cost (maybe you can beat them down a bit due to it being 3-phase and requiring additional cost to get it running ). When you try the Singer run it fast and slow and as long as it doesn't make any funny knocking/clanking noises you should be ok.
  7. dikman
    Can't go wrong with a nice big pulley! While you might lose top speed to me it's worth it for the slow speed control when sewing leather. Good job.
  8. dikman
    As long as it sews/runs ok the Singer would probably be your best bet, in my opinion. They are well built and parts (feet etc) should be cheap. The motor setup on it looks like it may be variable speed rather than a clutch motor, if so you could use a VFD, as Gerry suggests, to run on single phase. Just set the VFD to a fixed speed and use the variable speed in the motor control unit - I think it should work. Otherwise just buy a servo.
  9. dikman
    Very neat solution to avoid drilling the stock. Very neat job overall.
  10. dikman
    Yep, cut and burn.
  11. dikman
    Excellent job, should be good for another 100 years! I wondered what you meant by "tapered screw", we call those countersunk heads.
  12. dikman
    Once you apply wax to something not much will stick to it - except more wax!
  13. dikman
    12.5mm shaft, so it's actually a 1/2" imperial shaft.
  14. dikman
    That's what I used for my mallet head, finding rawhide here isn't easy so I just bought some rawhide dog bones. Took a bit of soaking to unwrap them but it worked great (and cheap).
  15. dikman
    Looks good, the rivets look ok to me.
  16. dikman
    Groan..................
  17. dikman
    When I made my stacked leather handle for my mallet I glued them using PVA wood glue. I slid them onto a length of threaded rod and clamped them tight with nuts and washers, slowly tightening them as the leather compressed. If you tap a thread in the end of the handle (good idea) you could use this process directly on the mallet. I reckon a hex-head bolt would closer match the age of it than an Allen-head bolt.
  18. dikman
    That's a lot of stamping! Good job.
  19. dikman
    Nice job - and no welding required! The simplest way to slow it down even further is to replace the handwheel with a larger pulley BUT you'll probably have to extend the slot in the table where the belt goes through.
  20. dikman
    Wouldn't it need it's own special feed dog?
  21. dikman
    I'd just like to reinforce what Bladegrinder said - buffing wheels can be extremely dangerous if you get a "catch"! The loose floppy ones in particular, I approach them with a degree of caution, having had a few things grabbed by them and flung hard against the wall behind. I have a couple of different grits but I tend to use green mostly, seems to work fine for my needs.
  22. dikman

    Manpurse

    dikman replied to MadsH's topic in Show Off!!

    Looks good to me! You did a great job on the pattern, it's quite complex. Once it's used and gets a bit worn any perceived imperfections will disappear.
  23. dikman
    Given that a rifle sling is going to be handled a lot and outdoors in the weather I reckon a good wax would be the the best option.
  24. dikman
    A daunting task indeed, given the age and condition of the leather. You did an excellent job.
  25. dikman
    I doubt if any airbrush would be able to spray NFO, as Fred said it would need to be thinned a lot! Which then raises the question of which solvent to use? This would apply to spray bottles as well. It's not something I would even consider doing.
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