dikman

You're a busy boy, Frodo!

There's been a few posts on here about the advantages/disadvantages and use of those "one-arm bandits" but being in Oz those machines aren't going to be easy to find. I looked at importing a 441-class machine from China (where the prices are fairly reasonable) but by the time all the other costs were added in there was no advantage so I bought local. And since then shipping costs have skyrocketed. Living in Oz gives us limited choices.

No doubt about it, Frodo, you're a (redneck) genius!

I've occasionally noticed the same thing, I put it down to leather being a natural product, as opposed to something that is manufactured and so has consistency. As Northmount said if it's an issue then clamping the leather first so it can't move helps.

Very nice work. Interesting shape where the blade curves into the handle.

Very nicely done. Probably look even better when it's been worn a bit, it should age nicely.

A leather shop without that smell just isn't right! Another smell that has a "uniqueness" about it is black powder, there's something incredibly evocative when someone shoots it on the firing line (it's a bit smoky though ).

They look good, mate. Simple and effective. Your mallet is cute.

Not much will stick to a waxed surface (in fact, I don't know anything that will).

Very clever!

It's probably like a lot of things - better than some (motors), not as good as others. I'm sure it will work fine, whether it's good value or not I have no idea, just ignore the advertising hype.

Because they might be useful one day?

I don't know how it compares in Canada (I'm in Australia) but when I looked at buying a 441 clone from China I found the prices were very good but by the time I added on all the other costs - shipping, duties, taxes, various handling costs, broker fees etc - there were no savings to be made, the cost was the same as buying one here. And shipping-wise we are closer to China than Canada is! Plus any guarantee/warranty is also pretty useless, you'll be basically on your own.

Very nice job! Simple and effective.

If you're talking about actually carving your logo into the back of a vest you might be in trouble. Not only that the leather probably won't be thick enough to carve but being flexible is likely to cause issues, most carving is usually done on thicker leather that ends up being fairly rigid. If you carve it into a thicker piece to sew onto the vest it might be a bit uncomfortable to wear.

Ingenious design and very nicely done! I can see where you might get a few requests for the parts. You must go through a lot of 3D filament!!

I'm going with Wepster's idea, an assortment of tools from different crafts. Some of the spoons look like clay sculpting tools.

I needed a replacement unit some time ago and just bought one off ebay (China), it worked fine.

Can't see much detail in the photo but my first guess would be some sort of fine wood carving?

If you can control the clutch motor straight off then you're a better person than me! I was raised on manual cars and drove trucks too but the clutch motor was too much for me. It would only take one slip and a piece could be ruined. Sounds like you're off to a flying start.

I fitted a rather large pulley to my Seiko, it meant I didn't need to mess around with a reducer, the pulley was in my spare pulley box and I just needed to make a sleeve for the shaft.

It's a capacitor start/capacitor run motor and needs that capacitor to work. You could move the entire box somewhere else as long as the cables are long enough but honestly just do yourself a favour and replace it with a servo, you will be able to start sewing straight away without wasting time trying to tame a clutch motor. The two "buttons" are spring-loaded oiling points, push in the ball with an oiler and drip the oil in. As for all the wicks, if it was me I'd just learn to oil it manually, just oil any parts that move!

They're a nice machine and it should serve you well. As for oil, if you've got sewing machine oil that will be fine. The commonly use Lillywhite oil is basically ISO 32 hydraulic fluid, it's main advantage seems to be that it doesn't stain material (so they say). Other than that any light oil will work. That metal box looks to me like it was the original switch mounting (in the hole in the front) and for some reason the switch was removed and the push-buttons added. If you are comfortable with electrical work it could probably be removed. Take the cover off and post a photo of the innards, we'll soon be able to tell you. Personally, based on past experience, the best thing to do is replace the motor with a servo and not mess around with the clutch motor. I wasted a lot of time on mine until I saw the light!

In my opinion, yes. At least the holes will be filled in, and in itself it makes it a bit different. Then put it on display somewhere.