dikman

Well, I must admit to being confused. Your post refers to "our system" and gives the impression you are manufacturing them. Your other recent post says you make tools for the fashion and leather industry. Whoever makes them they appear to be very nicely made.

It looks pretty good to me , Herbie. What Fred suggested will tone it down a bit, but sometimes subtlety isn't necessarily needed.

Personally, I reckon you're overthinking the whole thing. Any curve on the belt is unlikely to be great enough to be an issue for boolit loops.

There are no "rules" or "laws" that say how you must do something in leatherwork, you do whatever works for you. There are proven methods that work well for some things but if you want to do it a different way that's also fine. Some people believe in only doing things by hand (no machinery), again there's nothing wrong with that it's an individual choice. Just go for it and enjoy yourself.

Nothing wrong with that stitching, looks good.

I guess we need a photo (or two) showing the construction of said knife.

Is that an Irish thing? It's often said that some Tasmanians have two heads.

If it's a hidden tang and it's already starting to loosen I'd pull the blade out of the handle, remove the ferrule and reglue both with an epoxy.

It will likely remain one of life's mysteries.

You're a glutton for punishment! Impressive job, though, and I'm sure they'll sell well, given the intended market. On a side note, I see you got the colours right, "they" persist in referring to it as a rainbow but a rainbow has seven colours whereas "theirs" only has six. It always makes me shake my head and smile.

I'm guessing that the bit hanging down acts like the end of the belt and you put the tongue of the buckle through the hole?

It is an interesting-looking machine, a bit unusual, but the only way I would buy that is if it was dirt cheap as I consider it very much an unknown quantity. I've never seen anything quite like it. I'm with kgg, put the money towards something a bit more "mainstream".

That is a LOT of work!!!

Glue? It should be the consistency of milk, like doc said, and runny. Are you sure the thinner is the right type for the paint? A quick search shows others having the same problem. It's a urethane finish so will likely need thinning quite a bit but the wrong thinner will certainly turn it "gluggy". Maybe try lacquer thinners? Funnily enough some have said they can spray it straight from the bottle. Perhaps the needle in the airbrush is too fine?

Unfortunately (for you) as kgg said you will need a 441-class machine to do those gunbelts and holsters. It's not just the ability to handle thicker thread - #277 minimum - but the sheer power to punch a heavy needle through the leather and the increased clearance under the feet that is needed. The only other option is a "one-armed- bandit" as has also been discussed.

In the end it sounds like it was a pretty easy and simple process (after all the talk about buffing and electrolysis ).

As mentioned, photos will help, particularly the foot pedal linkages and where they connect to each end.

While using up the last of my black shoe polish after re-heeling my wife's shoes I got to wondering about making some. I've made lots of assorted wax concoctions but it's always been the natural colour. So, would adding leather dye to the wax mix work? I figure someone on here surely must have tried it.

Your swivel knife cut lines are very smooth. Thanks for taking the time to post each step.

I have a couple of different handle sizes and an assortment of blades but I don't use them much. They are, however, very handy for fine work, as others have mentioned.

How about modifying the foot lift rod by replacing it (or most of it with a chain? It's pretty easy to make it adjustable by using a hook (I simply opened up a link on mine to make a hook).

What Bert said, clean, neat and functional.

It would certainly be easier if you had a machine designed to handle #207 thread. Most upholstery-class machines are, in general, designed to handle #69 although some can use #138. Anything above that is problematic. And it sounds like you WILL need a heavier-duty machine for your next stage - or hand-stitch it! You mention that thread is slipping between the tang and the needle plate locating slot? If we're talking about the same thing then something's definitely wrong as the thread shouldn't go anywhere near that slot.

If it's a gift, as Northmount said what is the person on the receiving end going to be making with it? And what is your budget?