dikman

Well, the mod had an effect but still doesn't quite work right. Unfortunately I don't have the option of changing the sensor parameter from 1 to 2, it's there but not accessible so this may be the problem. I opened up the hole in the disc and glued a magnet in, which works fine. My Seiko has a large 8" pulley on the head which gives me about a 3:1 ratio. When I first fitted the NPS the motor simply wouldn't run properly, due to the ratio, and kept throwing up an error code. Fitted the modded NPS and now it will run fine but I can't set it to stop either needle up or down. What happens is if the needle is moving down when I take my foot off the pedal then it stops needle down, if it is moving up when I take my foot off then it stops needle up. Sometimes heel down sends the needle up, sometimes it has no effect. An interesting experiment nevertheless - so near and yet so far. Edit:I just re-read Captayne's post, referred to above, and I'm getting the same results that he did. While he thought that being able to "choose" whether you wanted the needle to stop up or down was great that will only work if you are sewing very slow, in order to "control" which direction you want it to stop. If you're sewing that slow then there's no need for the NPS anyway.

I opened mine up and it looks the same (other than having a metal housing). I'll glue a suitable magnet on later and see what happens.

Very interesting. Mine is one which doesn't work with a reducer and although I don't need one you've got me curious.

I agree, beautiful things indeed. The first photo, two of them look like Spalted Maple? Just out of curiosity what do you make the heads out of?

Iron1951, you're doing great photowise. As for not having a cellphone, I don't have one either (don't need it) but I do have four digital cameras . Keep 'em coming, mate.

Yours looked lonely on here Chris so I made one to keep it company. Yes, I could have made one out of wood and yes, it would have only taken 30 mins. or so compared to 6 hrs. 15min - but it wouldn't have looked as cool (0.2mm layers, 20% infill).

With a servo too! I hope you felt a slight tinge of guilt. I did what JJN suggested on one of my Singers, I found a fairly close match and just repainted the bed.

Obviously hasn't been used yet - no dye drips! Thanks Chris, looks better than the tub I use at the moment.

Pretty simple, I used an old electric slow cooker my wife was throwing out, chopped up the suet and left it in there for several hours to reduce. I poured out the liquid to cool and gave the cruzzly bits left behind to the chooks. Doesn't get much easier. I told the butcher what I wanted to do and he gave me suitable scraps from the sheep carcasses, not quite the "pure" suet but worked fine for my needs.

I would consider removing them altogether if you're opening it up. I doubt if many would use this connection these days.

That would explain the funny bulges on the left of the post. I was wondering about that.

The photo is a bit small but it looks very similar to my 51W59.

If you're referring to the tension release pin that slides inside the housing to push the discs apart, I've had to make a couple in the past and just found a suitable sized nail or piece of rod and cut it by trial and error until it worked.

There are quite a few posts on here about them and also youtube videos. It could be useful for what you suggest but the bobbin is very small so not suited to anything other than small jobs.

The older 335's were limited to #138 thread but were happier with #69, I'm not sure about the new models as I couldn't find it listed in the manual that I have. It also mentions needing an air supply.

Damn, that looks nice! Jimi's right, it definitely needs a decal of some sort on the front, now that it's all clean it looks a bit....bland.

Looking nice. You're getting pretty good at this.

Unless you're getting it at an absolutely bargain price then I doubt if it will be worth the effort. Too much to go wrong.

As chiefjason pointed out, wet-molding and dyeing strips the leather and hardens it significantly, which is why most give it a coat of neatsfoot oil first, to add a bit of oil back into it. There's nothing wrong with using straight beeswax other than it needs to be warmed up to make it workable, as you said. In my experiments with various wax mixes I came across one chap who said to mix pure gum turpentine (NOT the manufactured stuff!) in with the beeswax to make it softer. Yes, it worked, but over time the turpentine tended to evaporate out and leave a black gunk in the container. Not good. I've also seen mention of using Pine oil but have no idea how effective it would be. When you've finished your project let us know how it went.

Well, my tallow has been sitting in an unsealed container for quite a few years, stored in a shed that gets bloody hot in Summer and very cold in Winter, and hasn't gone off. I've got several concoctions I've mixed, using tallow, and likewise had no issue with deterioration. Just sayin'.

If you want to soften the beeswax mix in some tallow and neatsfoot oil. Tallow doesn't go rancid.

Except if you look at Constabulary's machine it has a feed dog.

You must be a magnet for these machines, they always seem to find you!

Thanks mate, great photos and quite remarkable that the buildings not only survived but can still be used. If you didn't say where they were taken that "industrial style" of building could be anywhere in the UK.

Yep, I tried a couple of programmes I found on the 'net with my little burner but to no avail. One that did work was simpler than the stuff that came with it!