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Chief31794

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Everything posted by Chief31794

  1. These went out of the shop today, both are Hermann Oak©, the Dobro Strap is lined with Pigskin Split and has padding in the shoulder area. Chief
  2. Normally you tool first, then stain, then burnish, but it's your project, it can be done more than one way, traditionally I think the Tool, Stain, burnish is generally accepted as the "way to go". Chief
  3. Wallet interiors and liner material. Can be glued together flesh to flesh to make a nice hefty 4 oz piece for wallet backs, Bible Covers, etc. Chief
  4. Colt, I use 7/8 oz Hermann Oak for unlined Banjo Straps, the back side isn't dyed. I use Fiebings Aussie on both sides, that gives the backside that darker look. The Aussie makes the leather very supple when you apply to front and back, heat with a heat gun (or hair dryer), then remove the excess by buffing. I seal the top side with Clear Lac. Putting the Aussie on both sides also helps with perspiration resistance which is another great benefit on an instrument strap. Chief
  5. Thanks, Thank you Thanks, I still would like to have an informal meet up sometime when I'm in the Atlanta area. Thanks Bob.
  6. I wouldn't glue a belt lining on without stitching. Possible I guess, but not something I would trust. Chief
  7. This is going to a sailor aboard ship. Don't see many Banjo Straps posted so I thought I'd throw one out in case anyone was interested in making them. Chief
  8. you could always get two 9/10 oz belt straps and glue them together if you're dead set on a belt that thick. Chief
  9. Just to pile on, I use a groover as well, I also use an edge guide whenever possible (belts, guitar straps, etc), I set the guide so that the needle is in the middle of the groove, then just keep the project against the guide and sew away. Even when I can't use the guide a groove makes it easier to follow than a scribed line as well as the benefits of protecting the stitches. Chief
  10. I haven't done one of these in decades, but a customer wanted one so here tis'. Chief
  11. I always stamp before I dye. Chief
  12. The main thing I see is that the leather was too wet and I would practice with the swivel knife, your cuts don't seem very accurate. It's important to take more time and ensure that you are following the lines (either traced on or put on with a craftaid, etc) very closely and accurately, then make sure your blade is perpendicular with a forward tilt. Practice starting and finishing cuts, it will greatly improve your carvings. Hope that helps, Chief
  13. Tandy gives you free Elite Membership, all you have to do is provide a copy of your business license at the local store, then it's permanent and good at any store or on line. I don't buy a lot from them, I buy mostly from SLC, but I do get some things and the free membership is definitely worth providing a copy of your business license. Chief
  14. Contact glue, Master's, Barge, etc will glue it down, however, the basic rule in leather working is if you glue it you stitch it, and vice versa. In order to be effective, you should stitch linings in after gluing them down. Chief
  15. Nice work Snubbyfan. Chief
  16. Kharns, I'm not an expert on Swivel knives, maybe someone else will pile on, however, I have used and sharpened them for over 45 years so here's my $.02, only one face and the traditional wisdom is that it should be 30 degrees. There are jigs for sharpening swivel knife blades ( a really good one is the Big Red), they are adjustable as to angle however, the Big Red comes with a jig for setting the angle and it is set to 30 degrees. The blade should be very sharp, it should easily "slice" the leather, it should not gouge the leather. Hope that helps, Chief
  17. Yes, Pigskin Split. Chief
  18. I'm not a big fan of IWB, but I made this one for a customer. He liked it, I always wear Avenger type holsters, just more comfortable to me and I can't tell much difference in how "detectable" they are, I wear mine with my shirt tail out, have to do the same thing with an IWB, some people like them, anyway, here's one that went out today. Chief
  19. I use ceramic stones, the fine is 1000 grit, not sure what the medium is around 600 I think, I also use a Big Red sharpening jig to make sure the blade is sharpened on a 30 degree angle on each side. The ceramic stones are well worth the money. Chief
  20. 1 oz is approximately 1/64th inch which make 8 oz 1/8" thick as Tinker said. Simple conversion or you could buy a thickness guage. Chief
  21. I don't know what he'll say, I'd say WOW!, really nice. Chief
  22. Can't believe everyone is being humorous, I think it's a really nice shade and I don't notice any "rub off". LOL Chief
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