Dan Miller
-
Content Count
32 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Hi Skip, I am also a tool collector and user (both wood and leather). I normally live in upstate NY, in the Thousand Islands north of Watertown, though I am in Australia at the moment. Whereabouts in Upstate NY are you? Cheers, Dan
-
Well, I use the number two mallet to chop mortises in heavy timbers for buildings with a 1-1/2” framing chisel so it is probably overkill for most leatherwork. I do use it for larger round punches, key fob punches and so on. The no. 4 is really a persuader. I generally only find use for mine while timber framing - knocking joints together, riving hardwood pins with the froe and so on. Don’t think I own a no. 3.
-
A 16oz hammer should be plenty of weight for setting rivets, etc. Probably what you need is something not rubber. The attached photo shows three of my go-hammers. The middle one, the Garland No. 1 with rawhide faces, is my main hammer for any striking of metal - rivet sets, snap sets, stitching irons, smaller punches, etc. The one on the right is a weighted rawhide mallet of about the same weight, and could be used in place. The hammer on the left is for peening copper rivets, for those times when I choose not to use a rivet set. You should be able to pick up a Garland No. 1 or similar from Ebay for about $15 For larger punches, and other general woodworking projects I have a Garland No. 2 with rawhide faces that is the bee's knees.
-
Looks like you are off to a good start! I am just north of you - drive north until you hit the border, then take three steps back. Dan
-
Here is mine. It belonged to my great-grandfather who was a harnessmaker in Westport, NY. I really enjoy using it. Dan
-
I'm relatively new to all this, but I have been really happy with my Barry King medium awl handle (http://www.barrykingtools.com/handtools.htm).
-
Help Applying Saddle Stitching to Tool Bag Design
Dan Miller replied to OrthodoxMason's topic in How Do I Do That?
My awl-work was jumpstarted, IMO, by starting with Barry King awl blades. They cost $25, but come polished, sharp, and ready to use out of the box. -
No, Just the usual work glove you get at a hardware store for doing yard work, etc.
-
I just started doing this. I use a heat gun, and monitor temperature with one of those temperature "guns" (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071NM73DX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). I take it to 150 degrees F per the Ian Atkinson video, then transferred it using a leather work glove. Dan
-
Help Applying Saddle Stitching to Tool Bag Design
Dan Miller replied to OrthodoxMason's topic in How Do I Do That?
I'm just learning hand-stitching myself, so can't really help you with your questions. I just wanted to say that I really like your tool pouches. I've also done a bit of timber framing myself. Cheers, Dan -
I don't for sure, but if the loop is to fit a 1" strap, it stands to reason that the outside measurement of the loop has to be more than 1" Good point though, and an email to OTB has been sent. Dan
-
Dan Miller changed their profile photo
-
I did ask Nigel, and he suggested these links. Note that the grommet linked does not fit the loop. https://ohiotravelbag.com/products/item/1ef8241d-2d39-4f67-89d8-e93e074d3cad/P-2742-NIC https://ohiotravelbag.com/products/item/06764edb-7899-49ba-8685-0d56c528eb78/1in+Screw+Together+Eyelet+Nickel Lots of good suggestions in this thread (Thanks everyone!). Still, not finding anything that grabs me. Dan
-
And when you order this, or anything else, from Lee Valley, you get free brown kraft paper to lay on your bench when dying leather.
-
Thanks, Tugadude, you've given me some leads, albeit all in chrome. I'd like antique brass/bronze or nickel matte. Billybopp, yes I was was surprised, they don't, as far as I can tell.
-
Yes, have tried Tandy, Buckleguy, Ohio Bag, Springfield, etc...