fredk

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333930064942?epid=20045199299&hash=item4dbfc86c2e:g:p-gAAOSwbWZgWJLP For straight sections I use this, have been for a long time, a scrap of beech with a groove in it I also have a couple of carrot shaped slickers I've also used a piece of denim or a piece of linen in my fingers Before you set out to do it 'easier' learn what it is you are doing

The dark material might be neoprene sponge rubber. Both it and the cork can be as thin as 1mm

Go to a hobby shop which sells items for model railways and ask for cork track underlay. Its thin cork strip, usually with adhesive tape on the back. A big roll will cost you just a few Euro

I believe that is actually a panel beaters hammer. For beating metal panels into shapes. There are a great variety of head shapes in these types of hammers.

On a book shelf with lots of cousins and read occasionally. Thats what it was born for

UK, we use millimeters for thickness. 1 US ounce for leather = 0.4mm thickness. Therefore 3oz = 1.2mm, 4oz = 1.6mm and remember; when you apply dye to your raw leather and it dries, the leather shrinks. Not only in width x height, but also in thickness. Most often this shrinking in thickness goes unnoticed but it can affect the final out come of your project in some cases

Very nicey indeedy

you need to PM a moderator and ask. But they won't necessarily delete a thread if there is information being shared in it

a. dubbin is a heavy waxed based polish used for waterproofing leather items, especially hiking boots and bags. Its not meant to be polished, just applied and allowed to semi-harden b. pure turpentine is made from the resin of pine trees

That and the dull finish makes me think its a dubbin type polish which might be removed with turpentine

Like this That is like my main beek tool when I kept bees

I avoid facebook like the plague. which reminds me, I have a Plague Doctor's Mask to make up I'll check out the Studios tho, sometime soon-ish.

thanks for coming back so quickly. I always forget stuff can be found on youtube

Just another thought; if the cobblers can't do the job, try turpentine. Real turps, not the turps substitute you can buy cheaply. As a beekeeper I used to make beeswax polishes and I used real turps in the mix. Real turps would strip my polishes off things. edit to ask; is this bag worth the effort? or is it one of those projects we just don't want to be beaten by?

well, for my part I'd be interest in how they are used thanks sorry, PS. thats a really loverly bit of tooling on that oakleaf corner, and the basket weave as well.

extra. I bought one of these skiver things a couple of years ago. I've never used it. I must get a round tuit. I need to find somewhere to set it up. It cost me all of about £24. It might do the job of skiving the edges? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284202705458?hash=item422bcd2232:g:fSwAAOSwI7ZgbXEJ

I don't know if this helps any. I've been getting very thin leathers off this chap. Check out each piece for thickness. I get them and use them as is for lining but with a bit of cleaning down and re-dyeing the colours can be changed https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/Other-Leathercraft-Accessories/160670/m.html?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEFSXS%3AMESOI&_ssn=bel-fred&_sop=15

That looks good and fit for purpose

The only thing left to try is cellulose thinners, aka lacquer thinners. I use it to remove just about all top finishes, including polishes and lacquer finishes

Nickle plated steel or stainless steel, or almost any plated steel or aluminium Brass is the one not to go for

Mentioning where the leather is from is often a marketing ploy. Basically, good leather is good leather irrespective of where it originates* but some people, especially the end user, put large importance on where the leather is from. eg some people I've come across think Italian leather is better than Spanish or Scandinavian and these people expect to, and are willing to, pay more for something made with Italian leather. One exception to this, European car manufacturers prefer to use Scandinavian leather as it is better. Better as far as scars and marks but not general quality. Scandinavians do not use barbed wire and they have far less tics to bite cattle, thus their hides are cleaner. Source other leather sellers and ask if they have US or Canadian leathers, but don't ask for 'American' as that will include Mexico and all the countries in 'South America' * a whole topic is devoted to this in another area but I'm keeping it to basics.

Culture differences. Here in N.I. / UK we measure leather thickness in millimetres. I can picture that thickness in my mind better than by the ounce. Your 2 - 2.5 oz = about 0.8mm to 1mm, your 3 - 3.5 oz = 1.2mm to 1.4mm but that link shows 3 - 3.5 as 1.1mm. I reckon that's just about too thin. For what you want I'd be going 1.6 to 2 mm. or 4 to 5 oz. Also, on that link, is a second menu choice, with the square footage, when you choose your thickness then choose your footage the price automatically changes I think vgni is just the store code for veg, natural, India There are loads of discussions on; tools, beginners, for the use of, on this ere forum. Do a search for them

There is a method of sewing where you can hide one side of the stitch, or not have it go right thru the leather. One piece of leather needs to be quite thick for this, at least 3mm unless you are real good at sewing Instead of the thread going right thru both leathers, on the thick piece you go thru the middle of the thickness and up and out again. You use a curved awl and a curved needle for this. Sew the panels together like this then add a gusset sewn on the outside

Some of us have taken to saying 'Bueller?' when there is no response to a question or statement. Taken from the film 'Bueller's Day Off'