fredk

Thanks for all the answers everyone

Those weren't fully leather. They were embroidered silk uppers with leather soles. Some examples still survive in the storage boxes of certain museums

May I add a few suggestions? 1. if you have to unscrew or unbolt a piece, put the screw or bolt back into its hole. A bit of duct tape over it will help hold it from unscrewing again 2. put any removed parts into plastic bags with a big piece of paper saying what it is and where it came off. 3. during any dismantling take loads of photos, to show the part in place and that place without the part learnt by experience of not doing the above

Tell me somat please; this thread applicator does not appear to have dogs for moving the leather between stitches, so do you have to move your item along and sort-of guess where to put the next stitch? With pre-punched holes you'd just be aiming the needle into that hole?

If he doesn't toe-the-line he'll end up a resident of Boot Hill He's just keeping in-step with modern ideas on recycling/repurposing things

Now knowing that it might need some lots of fettling to get it to work decent I might get one to play with Its what my father used to call a Tinker-toy* * I believe there used to be some sort of toy in the US that was called Tinkertoy

Is this the type of machine youse are discussing? I was thinking of buying one. Just cos I think its rather an antiquated & basic look which I like. I doubt I'd do any real sewing on it anyways. I can get this off ebay.uk, UK stock, for about £60 delivered

If you want to make your wallet or other credit/debit card holder RFID blocked, there is no need for expensive blocker stuff. I use a thin aluminium self-adhesive tape meant for plumbers to wrap around pipes. It cost me about £5 for a 50m x 5cm roll. I've High Street tested it on as many car readers as I could find, over 20 different types, and the tape blocked every time This, (not the exact same roll wot I bought https://www.toolstation.com/aluminium-foil-tape/p97723)

Do you have any builder's merchants? Places dedicated to just the professional building trade? I used to get hardware from a builders merchant. It was both superior, better quality and cheaper than the DIY type hardware places Without an image I cannot really think of what you are looking for but builders merchants often keep a variety of types of chain; for fencing, chain-loop locks et cetera. I used to get one heavy duty type to make tyre winter-chains, another type for keeping certain livestock tied up, another type for the chain-loop locks on gates and trailers and my motorcycle.

A good sharpening is all needs I like to use this wee gadget to keep the cutting edges right whilst sharpening https://www.tandyleather.world/collections/tools/products/craftool-keen-edge-sharpener

Maybe use regular upholsters' canvas webbing across the frame under the leather seat ?

1. yes, it should cut thru the leather real easy 2. the shaft of the blade comes in about 3 different sizes. If you don't know the brand of your knife just measure the shaft diameter. I think Barry King sells blades with different shaft diameters 3. depending on the thickness of your leather, anything from 1/2mm to about 1mm should be enough. Deeper cuts for deep bevelling, shallow cuts just for decoration, eg fur on an animal 4. some folk reckon a ceramic blade is the real dogs-do-das. I just use the ordinary steel blades

This is what its supposed to look like Use veg tan leather. Cut a strip of leather, cut the top edge shape, sew up the ends together. Then - give it a good wetting, a soaking and then fit it over a circular item which has objects attached on the surface where you want the bumps to be. The circular item should be just the right size for the crown to fit over, you then need to force it over the bumps. As the leather dries it will pull down over the bumps. You may need to help it a bit by using a modelling toll or boner to force the leather to form over the bumps

Iron poisoning. It is indeed a reaction of iron parts on the leather I think only oxalic acid will lessen it, but it might not remove it completely. You can usually get oxalic acid in powder form in hardware stores and some chemist will sell it to you. Sometimes its sold as 'Barkeepers Friend' (in B&Q afaik) When replacing any iron or steel parts, replace with pure brass ones

A thumb-break re-enforcer/stiffener Tandy; https://tandyleather.eu/products/thumb-break-stiffener-10-pack

That is a really nice custom bike bag

I think they are the one & same a. I've been getting promo emails from Tandy and Ivan lately. I only signed up for the Tandy. Both promo emails come together, one after the other and the Ivan offers hardware et cetera for projects in the Tandy email b. I bought a lot of stamping tools last year. They were in plastic self-seal bags with a card insert. Both the tool number and the barcode on the card insert were the same for Tandy and Ivan for the same design stamp

Just so we is all talking the same; The upright part of a fedora type is usually called the crown. The top bit which keeps the rain out is the Crown Former Yes, you need to add at least 1/4 inch, maybe up to about 1/2 inch for the bottom edge of the crown to fold outwards to sew to the brim. Commonly, the Crown Former has the excess and its folded down so that the Crown former inserts into the crown piece and then its sewn around the circumference from the side For fitting to the shape of your head; there are several ways to do that 1. If you have a hat that fits, or even if it doesn't, cut a piece of cardboard so it fits neatly into the hat and use that as a template to cut the hole on the new brim piece card pattern 2. Take some cardboard, cut a hole in it and try fitting it over your head, keep trimming it until it is a comfortable size that fits. Then cut another 1/8 inch or so from the edge of the hole. That's an allowance for the leather of the crown when it fits to the brim. The old time 'mad hatters' of London used to keep wood discs with egg shaped holes in them for sizing customer's heads. They kinda look like toilet seats, 3. I have a few polystyrene foam heads which I use for sizing the panel hats. In centimetres the heads go from 54cm, 56, 58 & 60 circumference. For doing a brimmed hat I cut a cardboard pattern and trial it out on one of my disembodied heads first

For #1 the best way is measure around the head; about 1 inch above the eye brows and just above the ears If you are making a hat of panels, the sum of all the panels, each panel measured between the sewing lines at a point which will the brow line, should equal the total of the circumference of the head For something like a fedora, which has a one piece crown, that should be the same as the head circumference plus any sewing/lacing allowance if its ab over-lap join #2 you don't, until you try it on. If you've measured and cut carefully it should fit ok

You can buy Grey / Gray dye I have some but there's no point me telling you who from cos they don't send out of GB, afaik Oh, alright then https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152663364215 Depth of shade of the grey / gray just depends on how many coats you put on btw, here in UK 'Slate Grey' varies from a blue-ish grey to a green-ish grey

What kind of foam is it? You can get thin sheets, about 1mm thick, in Hobbycraft. Its an EVA foam. From 50p/sheet See if this links you to a listing https://www.hobbycraft.co.uk/kids/kids-craft-supplies/foam-sheets-and-shapes?sort=Sale_Price~asc edit PS Hobbycraft says 2mm thick but its not consistent. I just checked some of my stock and much of it is only 1mm, but some, same colour from the same multi-pack is closer to 2mm edit #2 This place does neoprene down to 2mm thick. I've bought thicker from them for sound proofing my hole-punching table https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252353238313 edit #3 above place; 1mm thick sheets https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254212795359?hash=item3b30436bdf:g:6aYAAOSwVL1V-Urt

What do you call 'the original' ? Le Prevo does the wood handle one. I've used mine for over 20 years. No problems with it http://www.leprevo.co.uk/photos/strap-cutter.html

I've used PVA glue. Have done for many years Its ok on joints which do not have any forces on them. eg my game boards, leather to wood board You can get 'weather proof' water resistant PVA. Also you can make ordinary PVA water resistant by adding that floor varnish 'Mop & Glo' or whatever its called in your area. About 5% added to the glue and it dries water resistant I'd not use the children's PVA I can get, its thinner and a weaker version. For roughly the same price I can get regular wood workers PVA, to which I add 'Astonish' floor varnish.

Generally you use a 'resist' on the bits you don't want dyed Use Resolene or 'Mop & Glo' varnish. Other on here have their favourites. Run the resist into the area, flood it mostly, using a fine paint brush, several coats are best. Then after its dry dye, but apply the dye lightly around your lighter area

Usually yes. But give it very light feed of NFO before you case it again Feed it (before mid-nite ), leave it for a day or two, then use it Case the leather, lay it out, put a weight on it, after a while, well before its starting to dry try running a brayer or domestic rolling pin over the wrinkles. Work from the centre outwards, then put the weight back on. Try this a few times