fredk

I had an interesting experience once I had been using red dye. The glove had a pin hole in it and a little dye got in. Left hand, around the tip of the middle finger, the finger nail and run down the side of the finger and some over the back of the hand. It wouldn't scrub off. A day or two later I was in shop paying for something when one of the assistants appeared with the first aid box. She promptly started to bandage up my finger and hand, despite my protests that it was only dye. She mis-understood the word dye for die. 'no you won't die from that but you need to see a doctor or go the hospital'. I promised I'd go straight to my doctor and thanked her. Well, she got testing out her first aid training and did a good deed at the same time

I'm in the UK and I use UHU glue. Its a contact adhesive in a tube. Bostik is similar. I don't know what is available where you are

How about hiding the ends in 'cord ends'? I use them on the ends of lacing on bracers Available in many styles and colours Or simply a large bead. I use beads to end the laces on draw-string purses. Both ends pared down and glued into a hole in a wood bead

Look for name tags meant for dog collars Le Prevo sells them

As I walk through the valley of the Shadow of Death, I remind myself that you can't always trust Google Maps Yesterday I bought a world map, gave my wife a dart, and said, "Throw this and wherever it lands, I will take you on vacation." We're spending 3 weeks behind the fridge. What Bob Marley music do AWAC pilots play when on opps?? We're Jamin. I took my suit to the cleaners, who wanted to charge me 40 quid, so I gave it to the charity shop next door. They cleaned and pressed it and put it in the window. I bought it back for £15

There is a product called Frisket. Its a translucent painting masking material. afaik its only available in sheets or a roll 10 inches in width. You would need to cut it into tape size widths. Its very low tack https://www.amazon.co.uk/Frisket-Cleanly-Removable-Adhesive-Self-Adhering/dp/B004O7AENS/ref=asc_df_B004O7AENS/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=697225711392&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9425414613565909889&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1007334&hvtargid=pla-306935321735&psc=1&mcid=c62d28f3e02833db9b4962ff62e66dc5&gad_source=1 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Frisket-Cleanly-Removable-Adhesive-Self-Adhering/dp/B001F6J18K/ref=asc_df_B004O7AENS/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=697225711392&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9425414613565909889&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1007334&hvtargid=pla-306935321735&mcid=c62d28f3e02833db9b4962ff62e66dc5&gad_source=1&th=1 I use short sections of Frog Green tape and just join up the missing parts a la a dot-to-dot puzzles

Why does it need to be translucent? Frog Green or Yellow are low tack painters tapes. Green is lowest tack, but even Yellow is far lower than regular paper masking tape. I've been using them for years

Further down the page a chappie has posted 'Templates' and he mentions his 'green tape' Ask him the brand

I use green 'Frog' tape. Have you got that brand there?

The Shire of Glen Rathlin in the Principality of Insulae Draconis I'm a numpty when it come to this. I have a printer / scanner. If it works it will scan the page as an image

Mix the bees' wax with some carnauba wax. That takes away the 'stickiness' of the bees' wax. Carnauba wax is safe to use

I would not have it cut. That will ruin the point of it. The leather wrapping the compass in the photo above can be extended to hold the marble

@Aventurine A teaser. I have accidentally found my files and book on Medieval shoes making which include many patterns and how to make them. These are from my time in the SCA, over 20 years ago. The information was freely available to SCA members back then but I've looked and its no longer available. There is no copyright on it so it would be ok to share it If I scan the pages I don't know how to turn them into a PDF. Therefore each page would be a jpeg. There are a lot of pages which will take lots of time, if my scanner decides to work

I'll do the next up date in just over 2 months time. That'll take it to the 1 year. I reckon thereafter every 2 or 3 months

Well, this is boring No changes at all to any of my test pieces. All the pieces hanging outside in sun and rain remain very flexible, more than the Control piece No fungus, no rotten smells - nuffin, nowt, zilch, nada All I can say, at this point, almost 10 months along, that any of the products can be used on leather, the only difference being how dark you want the leather to be after application Anyone still reading this? or still interested?

I've never considered it. I've always cut dry. I might damp/wet cutting

I know neither book but I'd choose Olaf's. I know his other works Neither book will help you with patterns. They are strictly for historians and archaeologists, very dry reading. If you are looking for guidance on pattern making look elsewhere

Dark brown dye?

Sponge wash with warm water and a doggie shampoo. Pat dry then hang to dry

But you can spread the 8+ hours over a period I bought this repro knife earlier this year, straight from the forge, I have quite a few hours on it and I'm not finished yet

The pokey hole bits are large. They are more suitable for sail making/repairing

Wot he says but I have two of this type They have their uses. Kept one with me for 'emergency' repairs when I did historical presentations

I use mine for cutting the squares on game boards

Thanks

I don't bother sharpening the 60mm blade in my knife a. I'm rotten at sharpening b.a new blade is fairly cheap