fredk

What about Sergey? He has an advert at the top of the LW pages Makes most excellent stamping tools

Just a thought; I would drop to 1.2 - 1.6 mm (3 to 4 oz). lightly glue one edge of a piece to the stick. Bring it around and trim the other edge to meet to first. Lightly glue that edge down. Mark matching stitching holes. Remove the leather and use leather lace to stitch it. Put it back on the stick then wet mould it

It will stamp worse,. Even on a small project its best to case only once and keep it damp, even in just a sealable plastic bag Are you speaking of top surface burnishing or edge? The edges will burnish up real nice and easily, it will take a lot of effort, and I mean a lot, to burnish the top surface

Yes it does alter After your first casing when the leather dries you'll find it stiffens up and also shrinks a bit After each subsequent casing the leather will get ever so slightly more stiff but won't shrink by very much, if at all To counteract this stiffening you should feed it with nfo as it dries after casing Upon the initial casing it will tool nicely and easily. Upon subsequent casing it will need more effort to tool well. But we are talking of it'll just need a greater whack on the tool with the mallet, not having to use a 15lb sledgehammer. The difference is there but not too noticeable If you are going to tool over a period you can do a first casing, keep the leather damp with a sponge as you work. At the end of a session wrap it in ceran food wrap and put it in the fridge until the next session. It will keep for days like this. When I do this I put just a little bit of bleach in the casing water to prevent mould from growing

Chromexcel is a trade name for a leather that has been both chrome and veg tanned. Veg tanned to give the leather bulk and stiffness and chrome tan to make it supple

I would just use 1.5mm (approx) veg tan. I'd dye it a contrasting colour, such as a light tan or black, or even a colour such as blue, red or green

yeah. me too.

My family used to have a set that looked exactly like those The forks were 'pickle forks' , the straight un was for pickled onions and the nut crackers. On of my older sisters used to torture me by using the nut crackers on one of my fingers ; ~ 'do as I say or want or. . . . ' as she squeezed Back on topic; it does look like the pickle forks have been re-purposed to edge bevellers and/or for pulling out small tacks, like shoe sole tacks

Very nice wee purse. Excellent use of 'scrap'. But as we know, there is no 'scrap' in leather crafting. Every sq mm can be used in some way

In the normal course of things it doesn't matter, if you are saddle stitching On straight run stitching it can make a difference On some thin leathers I have holes at 2 -3mm rip out and I have to go up to 5 - 6mm What happens comes with experience

What size do you need? https://www.nautimarket-europe.com/en/Trem-Stainless-Steel-Friction-rotating-base-for-seats-175x175mm-TRD1712563

Just use ordinary paper patterns. Even the seam allowances are alright for leather seams My first choice for leather would be from Le Prevo : http://www.leprevo.co.uk/hides.htm Scroll down for the clothing leather. And the staff at Le Prevo will help with advice too

I get advertising emails from 'Ivan' I just got one about a range of hole punches; https://www.ivan.tw/products/craftplus-professional-drive-punches Interesting shape. And I wonder if that wider chute on the smaller sizes will make it easier to clear the punches of the plugs?

Sometimes the subject comes up ' does chrome tan leather affect steel' ? Today I got out of my EDC pouch a small pair of snippers. I'd made them a small sheath out of some chrome tan leather to cover the blades. The snippers have been in the pouch for months, unused until today. The bare metal blades had some mild corrosion on them

Just over a month ago Gezzer posted up a thread on a hatband he'd made In that thread I suggested getting some false fingers to put on the hatband I got the fingers. They are polythene plastic, not real ones (aww!) They were painted, very terribly, so I repainted them. They are about 50% bigger than real ones Now to find a use for them

There should be a letter before the number. The letter indicates which group the tool belongs, eg A = Backgrounders (mostly), B = Bevellers, P = Pear shaders, S = Seeders, et cetera

Verily most very excellent ! Mucho congrats to you Craftsmanship will always win through

We discussed that knife previously. Many other trades lay claim to it. If you shop around you can buy a good but cheaper one meant for another trade, such as carpet fitters or glaziers

I found my poly mallet was too light so recently I invested in a 24oz dead-blow mallet. I've not used it much but it has made a difference

The two ends look different sizes. I'm thinking this is a home made tool to have two commonly used straight screwdriver blades handy on one tool

yes it will. I find that a belly stretches more from back-bone to centre of belly than along the belly from leg to leg. Laminating it with a less stretchy section reduces the stretchiness

The chap I was talking to who showed me the metal parts soaked the parts in cellulose thinners. He did not explain why though. But that might have been to dissolve the plastic

You can 3D print with metals. I've seen aluminium and brass

A member posted this up; I have not used it so cannot vouch for it

Eagle looks good, Marine looks subtle. A wee tip/idea, if you can't paint really neatly, do it deliberately rough. EG on the Arizona, don't try to fill the rays with colour, do it sort-of child-like scribble, not right to the edges