fredk

I have one of those glass slickers but find it very limiting. Only an edge corner can be used. Mine cracked and chipped on one edge, a glass fault line. I smoothed that and when I went to buy a new one for a spare and saw the prices I went looking for glass paper weights. I now use a couple of glass paper weights which I got for about £1 each. One is a flat block about 2cm thick by 107 mm by 65 mm. Top side has rounded corners. The other weight is a flat disc about 70 mm diameter by 2 cm thick, top is flat but the edge is rounded. Both are easy to hold. With these the whole top can be used, covering a greater area You can often find glass paper weights at charity / thrift shops for only £1 or a $1. I've ended up with a selection of them, not all for leather work tho edited to add; for smoothing the back of leather I apply beeswax, rub it well in with a cloth then burnish it smoother with one of my glass paper weights and some of my glass paper weights I got these three for under £5, of these I use the block at front and the round one top right A flat topped disc shaped one. Fits the hand nicely and does a fine job of burnishing, Cost me £1 + some postage

I've found that wood dyes are appreciably lighter on leather. Remember, a water based dye will swell your leather, which will shrink back as it dries out. This can ruin any tooling or stamping. An oil based dye might be better

An aside; when I had diffs getting small blades for my wood strap cutter I used the blades from cheap plastic pencil sharpeners. At the time I could get the sharpener for about 10p (pence = 1/10 of a £, or about 12c maybe). The blades were just about the right size, just a wee tad (a technical term) thicker than the regular one for the strap cutter

Neither. I'd try sponge washing it with a strong lemon juice/water or onion juice/water solution first

As above. I use my 60mm a lot on thin leather.. My Fiskars 60mm, retracts the blade for storage, my 28mm, rarely used. has the retractable blade cover. I had a 45mm as well but it had a straight grip and I didn't like it so I gave it away. The 60mm has a stirrup grip and the 28mm head swivels so it can be at any angle I prefer Fabric weight vs blade size - doesn't matter. The 60mm is good for longer straighter or faster cuts, the 28mm better for tighter curves or closer trimming. I've used both on lightweight fabrics and leather up to about 3.2mm (8 oz ?) Its the blade guard which limits the thickness to be cut. On the 28mm the blade is only exposed by about 2.5mm, the 60mm by much more My last bought blade was a 'named' one, cost about £4 for one. Last night I ordered 10 'no name' blades for £6.23

You reminded me that I had to check the sharpness of my current blade. Not very sharp so a new one installed. I must now go buy some new blades as that one was my last spare new

When I got new blades they had thin oil on them. I think to prevent rust. But I cleaned it off as I don't want mineral oil anywheres near my leather or cloth Good find on the sharpener. Now, do they make one for the 28mm and/or 60mm PS, I gave away my 45mm as I found the 28 and 60 were better

Added; Yours is the 45mm blade one. yes? I think its a design 'fault' with the 45mm knife as on the 60mm one there is a plastic bit that goes thru the blade and handle. You cannot tighten that one up so much

I have one which is similar Tighten up the nut then back it off just a wee tad (a technical measurement) until the blade rotates freely. Not to the point where you can spin the blade, but it should rotate when a very light pressure is applied to it No need to lube

There be a quadzillion things you can make Question 1; what size pieces are we talking about? As well as the good suggestions; you could glue small odd shaped bits on a piece of canvas or heavy cotton and make bags, or glue them on to indoor-flower pots, or glue on to small/medium sized wood boxes Cut into equal sized rectangles and make dominoes

I got one from this chap https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/tuningstarltd?_trksid=p2047675.l2559 He's located in Bulgaria but afair he posts from Germany, and post to me from there was 3 days. It might take a week or two to the US, but it may be worth it (?) The one I got is plain but I don't see it on his list anymore https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/m.html?item=264500459452&_ssn=tuningstarltd&_osacat=0&hash=item3d9574b7bc%3Ag%3AnEUAAOSwNMZdpuXz&_odkw=&_from=R40&_trksid=p2046732.m570.l1313&_nkw=basketweave&_sacat=0 They are well made. They make a sharp impression. And as you want, wee alignment 'horns' on the corners. See on this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263862086180?hash=item3d6f67ea24:g:rU8AAOSwfSJbYZb0 TBH, I've only done a few wee lines with my tool, never yet done a full piece Actually, I like the look of this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264500462164?hash=item3d9574c254:g:h0gAAOSwqApdpucm I just might buy one

Problem was/is both the antique and paint use the same solvent. Put on a barrier, aka a resist, or block, first, apply antique, then paint To correct now, put on a resist/block/barrier, then repaint I use a local-to me version of 'Mop & Glo' floor 'polish', which is actually a water thin acrylic varnish

@Jmartin6192 Its working for me edit to add; on page 1, scroll down to Northmount's 2nd posting of July 18 2018 and hit the link in that. That should get your computer opening and/or saving the PDF file

I've found that in N.I. things like this go for more money than they are worth as they are bought for 'interior decoration' Near where I used to live is a business which buys up all sorts of odd things and sells it at huge profits for theme pubs / restaurants or ordinary homes. The outward condition of an item does not often mean a higher price. Sometimes items with 'age & patina' sell for much more

This seller has it as a PDF ebook on a CD http://survivalpress.org/Verlagsneue-Buecher/Handwerk-Technik/Alte-Berufe/Das-Sattler-Riemer-und-Taeschner-Handwerk-eBook-CD::89.html or here https://pw-media24.de/produkt/das-sattler-riemer-taeschner-handwerk-ebook/

Sorry no. When I found out it was false I deleted all my info on it. But I do remember one thing which rang warning bells - it came off a spool and you bought it by the metre ( by the yard / 3ft to you). Also it came in different widths and was pre-pierced for sewing It was through ebay.uk. If I find it again I'll post a link

Yes, what has been said already - you've done a fine job on a complicated item In some ways I can see this being useful to an artist. A holder for pens & pencils and a small sketch book

If you can, make your own. This 'lace maker' from Tandy will make fringe as well A while back I was looking the very same things you are now wanting and everything I found, except one, was all made in faux leather, ie not real leather and came out of China. The one thing I found was a UK seller making fringe in 4 to 6 inches lengths using real leather. I did buy some for my project but later bought the Tandy Lace Maker thingy Making it yourself you'll have more control on quality and sizing as well as it is far cheaper

How much do you need to cut at any one time? You could just put your leather on your cutting area, use a long straight edge and cut with a rotary knife. That's what I do if I just need a short length from a soft leather Or you could make up a special cutting block; basically a block of wood with a straight edge glued on, a razor blade embedded to the side, and beyond that another small length of wood. Glue a piece of wood onto the two pieces as a roof, the height being just the thickness of your leather. This makes a tunnel with a blade. Cut a strip of of your leather and pull thru the tunnel. The roof piece keeps the leather down and the razor cuts. An elaborate version of this it to have two or more blades and cut multiple strips at the one time Tandy used to sell a tool using this idea. Oddly enuf they called it a 'lace maker' https://tandyleather.com/products/table-top-lace-cutter It costs about $50. I got mine in one of their sales, cost me about $20 / £18 Its better with firm leather but with softer leather a sacrificial wood stick can be used to hold the leather tighter to the blades

I've been following this and thinking about it. The only time I had leather like the example was a piece of chrome-tan upholstery leather. I still have some of it. The only way I got around the 'loose fibres' was, after cutting nearly to size I liberally applied some contact glue and rubbed it in. Then after gluing to the other pieces and/or after sewing I cut down to size, thus cutting through the glued down fibres

aw, bummer, But what was the difference to the Brewers Pitch in Tudor & medieval times as the jacks have shown traces of wine or beer having been stored in them

These are a style called 'bucket boots' and are commonly available through stores selling re-enactor clothing Take your pick; https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1CHBF_enGB883GB883&sxsrf=AOaemvJha2fvzb2NnHWp6J7UyLZpknzBjQ:1632262777029&source=univ&tbm=isch&q=medieval+bucket+boots&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwinuYTYjJHzAhUhRkEAHR1wDC0QjJkEegQIBxAC&biw=1366&bih=625&dpr=1

Mix beeswax and neats foot oil into a paste, as thick or thin as toothpaste, and apply liberally all over and after a while buff off the excess with a clean new shoe polish brush and some clean rags

Most excellent 1. US quart? a UK quart is more; 32 fld oz to 40 fld oz 2. What do you seal the insides with?