Dwight

Yes. I use only oil stains for the most part, then use a finish coat of Resolene, . . . no stain moving, bleaching, running, staining from water. May God bless, Dwight

I let a guy buy my own personal rig off my shoulder about a year ago, . . . and just could not get myself all psyched up for a new one for me. I just looked at your tutorial, . . . that may have all changed, . . . I think I can see a 3:10 rig in my future. I have several of your pattern packs, Will, . . . never been disappointed in any of them (other than I can't make what I want to make fast enough to suit me). May God bless, Dwight

I have tried several different methods, . . . and for different products, . . . use different methods. For holsters and belts, . . . the little burnishers you see in the pictures are oak dowels with a 1/8" drill bit inserted as a shaft (so it fits right into my Dremel tool). Lightly moisten the beveled and sanded edges with a paper towel folded and soaked in luke warm water, . . . use the long one with the single shoulder for belt edges, . . . the multi groove one for the holster edges, . . . in the Dremel tool, . . . about 1700 rpm's. Use light pressure on the edge with the tool, . . . going back and forth. A 36 inch belt, . . . doing both sides and the ends, . . . will normally take me about 6 to 10 minutes from beginning to done. The edge will glisten up and shine, . . . while it is still warm, . . . rub it with real honest to goodness 100% beeswax, . . . re-burnish, . . . and you will have an edge that actually glistens. If you want a harder edge, . . . gum trag will give it to you, . . . replace the water & paper towel with an acid brush and gum trag, . . . but be VERY sparing until you catch on with it. Gum trag on a non finished surface can ruin an otherwise really nice project. The grooves are made by chucking up the tool, . . . cutting it smooth all around, . . . sanding it, . . . and cutting the grooves with a file while it is spinning in a lathe or drill press. May God bless, Dwight

That is a McDaniel holster, . . . and the loop does NOT rotate. The snap makes the holster vere easy to take on and off (like going into a gun free zone or something), . . . and while McDaniel uses some sort of screw and nut arrangement (I think) you could accomplish the same thing by starting the loop at the bottom of the holster, . . . and riveting it to the holster in one place. You would have a solid loop, . . . and a snap, . . . having the best of both worlds. Take a look at my website, . . . you'll see I use snaps and loops on both ends of the holsters. I don't even offer a pass through loop like you made, and very few makers do. May God bless, Dwight

anubismp, . . . I left your question alone at first, . . . figuring someone with more knowledge might chime in. Since they didn't, . . . maybe I can help, . . . but from what you are asking, and the way you are asking, . . . quite honestly, I have not the faintest idea of how or what you are trying to accomplish. Can you post a drawing, . . . picture, . . . ???? May God bless, Dwight

For my holster loops, I use some of the "left over" leather from other projects. I cut it with a strap cutter into straps that sometimes are two feet long. To make a holster loop, . . . I get out my little holster loop template, . . . my "half circle" punch, . . . a strap I cut the proper width. Lay the template down, . . . mark it with a pencil, . . . cut it with the punch (made from a wayward piece of EMT conduit I might add), . . . knock holes in it for the snaps, . . . edge em, . . . done. Usually takes about 60 seconds each for total job unless I'm really tired. May God bless, Dwight

These folks http://www.letargets.com/ have always done me well in the Blue Guns. They can and will order what doesn't show on their web site. I am almost certain that on the Blue Gun parent web site, an EMP is offered. It should be about $36 through the http://www.letargets.com/ folks. May God bless, Dwight

Real, honest to goodness rawhide, . . . used for the blade section only and properly fit so that the handle comes down on the rawhide inside the sheath, . . . it will stop the blade from going on and punching through. Look on my website, there is a fringed, single loop, suede sheath (I think it is on page 2), . . . that is what I had to do with that hog leg of a knife. The hilt of the knife stops on the rawhide if you make it slim enough to just accept the blade only. Hope this helps, may God bless, Dwight

Resolene: mix 1 to 1 with tap water. Apply with a bristle (NOT NYLON) brush, . . . apply liberally, . . . brush up a froth, . . . quit applying when the froth appears good, . . . brush out the bubbles, . . . hang up to dry, . . . buff when dry (can take up to 24 hours, depending on temp and humidity). Take a look at some of the stuff on my website, . . . it is on most of the inventory there. May God bless, Dwight

Actually, I really like your spacing theory, . . . that is how I do all my belts. It gives me a cushion in case he/she gained/lost a few pounds since the measurement, . . . and it gives them the opportunity to enjoy the belt a bit longer if they are in a gaining or losing frenzy. I also figure that they will be satisfied longer with my product, . . . and may call me again next time. May God bless, Dwight

Lou Alessi, an old time professional holster maker who passed away not too awful long ago, gave anyone who asked, his proceedure. Cut the pattern. Dye the pieces. Edge the pieces that will not be sewn. Tool as necessary (optional). Glue em together. Sew. Wet and mold. Finish up left over edging. Apply final finish. Done. All glueing and sewing was done with DRY leather. I also make custom holsters, . . . and I prefer to to move my dyeing process most of the time to the slot after wet and mold, . . . just my way of doing things. Both ways work. May God bless, Dwight

As a case in point, . . . I made myself a belt a couple of years back (first one in a long time, . . . too, . . . ) by just laying it beside my favorite belt. It fit, . . . no problems, . . . all is well. THEN, . . . I decided I wanted another belt, . . . a harness belt this time, . . . knowing it is a different process, . . . took off my new belt and laid the measuring tape on it. "UGH," I cried, . . . my tape has shrunk. It says I'm wearing a 39 in belt, . . . but my jeans are 36's, . . . something is surely wrong. Yeah, . . . it was, . . . and it was not the tape. Jeans had ballooned up with me, . . . tape sat quietly in the drawer awaiting its day of glory. Long and short, . . . use a measuring tape, . . . or a belt you know fits. No other way is really reliable. A "kinda, . . . mmmm, . . . sorta, . . . good" rule of thumb, . . . OWB holsters need no additional belt size, . . . IWB for a 1911, XD, Glock, most revolvers: add 2 inches, . . . cowboy gun belt: add 4 inches. May God bless, Dwight

As long as one does the tooling and stamping before the dyeing and finish coating, . . . I am not sure it makes a difference, . . . at least none that I have seen. Madmax saves his stitching for later, . . . he wants to be sure his tooling is good. I save my tooling for later, . . . because if I'm going to mess up on a belt and make a training aid out of one, . . . it will be with the sewing machine. Once I have a belt blank ready for tooling/stamping, . . . it is cut, punched, edged, glued to the liner,. . . and sewn, . . . but there has been no dyeing or finish applied. So far, . . . most of my customers have been semi oblivious to my proceedure, . . . just the product. May God bless, Dwight

The stitches would only decorate as far as I can see, . . . but there is one thing to keep in mind, . . . especially with only one layer of leather. If you stitch any line close to 90 degrees across the belt, . . . you will also build a perforation line, . . . and will possibly weaken the leather to the point that it may fail prematurely. Any line I sew that goes across the belt is done at less than a 45 degree angle simply for that reason. May God bless, Dwight

I had to get up and go find a ruler to answer your question, . . . but 3/16" is where I have my stitch groover set. The border will be something a bit wider than 3/16" because 3/16" is my stitch line dimension. I cut the blanks, . . . punch all holes at the buckle end and cut whatever shapes necessary there, . . . cut the tongue end about 1/2 to 3/4 inch longer than necessary, . . . glue up the pieces, . . . sand the edges smooth and even, . . . shape out the tongue and punch the buckle holes, . . . edge the belt, . . . then stitch groove, . . . sew, . . . decorate/carve/stamp, . . . dye, . . . burnish, . . . and finish the thing. Since I make em basically one belt at a time, . . . this works for me. My next project is to figure out how to glue up an 18 to 24 inch slab of face/liner leather, . . . and still be able to do what I do now at the buckle end. May God bless, Dwight

Just a short "Thank You" for Troy, . . . I like those business cards. I had wanted to do something more dramatic at first, . . . dropped back to plain practical, . . . just may follow your lead and do something more colorful and dramatic. May not also, . . . but thanks for your post, . . . at least it has gotten me to thinking more about it. May God bless, Dwight

I just made a 50/50 mix of pure beeswax and neetsfoot oil to use on some experimental stuff I'm doing. I put a heavy glass jar in my "fleamarket" crock pot, . . . filled the crock pot up about half way with water, . . . plugged her in, . . . it was even easier than using a double boiler, . . . and instead of cleaning the jar, . . . I just set it up on the shelf until I need it again. Just a little tip there to maybe make it a bit easier on all. May God bless, Dwight

Paxton, . . . I have about a 9 x 14 inch aluminum cake pan my wife donated to my leather shop. It is the one I do the browns in, . . . I have another one for blacks. I pour about a half inch of dye in the bottom of the pan, . . . put on two rubber gloves, . . . they go in buckle end first, . . . and they just stay in long enough to absorb the dye. I run em through with the flat of the inside against the bottom of the pan (put a wet paper towel under the pan to keep it from sliding, . . . or tape it down with masking tape) looks like a flat snake taking a bath in dye if you can visualize that. It takes all of about 30 seconds per belt, . . . when I'm done, . . . put the funnel in the dye bottle, . . . pour the rest back in, . . . rinse out the pan, . . . done . Most of the time, I'm doing one belt at a time, . . . but I got sick of trying to daub, or sponge, or dab and get it to suit me. This way it is uniform in color every time. The one thing you have to do though if you want lighter shades, . . . experiment with thinning the dye. I found one really beautiful reddish brown that way, . . . and it is my biggest seller. May God bless, Dwight

Most of my leather work tends more toward practical use, . . . and my business card reflects that. Mine are done on Microsoft Publisher, printed on a laser printer, on standard office supply store business card computer stock. May God bless, Dwight

I finally was able to get my website pieced together and published: www.dwightsgunleather.com I understand that there are services who are able to "submit" a website to the major search engines in such a manner that you can wind up in the first few pages, . . . which would obviously enhance the possibility of sales. If anyone has done that and would care to share your experience, I would certainly appreciate it. I've spent a couple hours looking at various offerings, . . . and came away probably more confused than when I went into it. My goal is to just get noticed out there, . . . get some traffic, . . . and not spend the kings gold to get it done. Thanks, may God bless, Dwight

Take a small bottle, . . . mix a 1 to 1 ratio of Resolene and tap water, . . . shake it enough to get the two well mixed. Then take a small, . . . 1 inch or 1 1/2 inch bristle brush (NOT Nylon or other man made stuff), . . . you want to liberally coat the whole thing, starting with whatever parts of the holster have the flesh side open. I usually start in the inside of my holsters, especially if they are unlined. Coat it liberally, using a back and forth motion, up and down, side to side, cross hatching, etc. You'll know you have enough on when you begin to create a small froth on the top of the holster. Quit adding at that point and brush, brush, brush, . . . until there are no more bubbles. Check the item for streaks or drips and especially go back and coat all edges before you quit. Hang it up to dry over low heat or (I prefer this) hang it in a window where the sun will hit it. Just how I do it, . . . works for me. You can see examples at www.dwightsgunleather.com May God bless, Dwight

I quit fooling around a long time ago with my belts. I dip dye em, . . . every last one, . . . from tongue to buckle. Clear coat em with a 50/50 mix of resolene and tap water, . . . and I haven't had any complaints from any of my customers at all. I brush the resolene on with a bristle hair brush, . . . making sure the back really gets a good dose, . . . when they dry, . . . they're done. May God bless, Dwight

If you would post a picture of the bag your grandfather did, it may make a difference. Some designs are easy, . . . and, . . . ummm, . . . some are not. Also, you may want to have someone else do the actual tooling for you, . . . sell you the panels, . . . you do the punching, lacing, and finishing, and it is a case that you have made yourself. May God bless, Dwight

Some I dip dye, . . . some I don't, . . . those I do, . . . get a good shaking before I hang them up to dry. You also may be leaving it in the dye too long, . . . pardon the pun, . . . but "dip", . . . "don't drown". Leaving it in the dye more than long enough for it to change color will sometimes produce a pooling at the lower end of the item. May God bless, Dwight

I don't remember who it was that asked for pictures, . . . here they are: It may sound problematic, . . . and may look hokey, . . . but my fingers and wrists are beyond hand stitching. I had to figure out another way, . . . and it makes a stitch that is equal to my Tippmann, . . . and of course, . . . if I want to, . . . I can do designs on the face of the leather, . . . sorta like embroidering. Anyway, . . . just another tool for those who need it. May God bless, Dwight