CowboyBob

This is a Singer 153W that has a walking foot,it's basicially a 111w machine w/a cylinder arm,in softer leather it'll sew just under 3/8" & use #138 thread.It looks like it needs an end plate on it you shouldn't run it w/o one,check to see if they have it. Bob

You'd think as big as they are they'd be good for something other than shoes but,I hate to tell you they don't work to good on much else.I guess they don't make a real good consistant looking stitch. As far as being worth something the higher the letter the better,like G is better than F ,K better than G, &K better than G,L better than K Bob

Catskin is right when he says 1/4" thats all Singer designed them for. These 29K51's weren't made for thick material & be careful if you try sewing thick because this model of 29 has small gears in it that'l break real easy & there's no replacements for them(hasn't been for over 30yrs) HTH, Bob

If you don't mind answering one (or two) other question...I found a juki that has a servo motor installed. Am I correct in thinking that that is a speed reducer which you mentioned? Also, how difficult are these machines to set up once i receive it? Sorry to bombard you with questions, and I really appreciate your time! Kristen, No, a speed reducer is added under the bobbin winder & consists of a large & small pulley that reduce the speed approx 3x less than what the motor runs.Some servos do not run slow as others so you might want to try it out b4 buying. There is a servo available with a builtin reducer that works real nice & is better than have an added reducer because you can tilt the machine back w/o hove to take the belt off every time. HTH, Bob

Look up Singer 12W & you'll see the MG machine ,which was originally gloss black & repainted by MG

The SV in the model means special version where Singer made a certain # of machines for a special purpose,this style of 47 is the older style as the newer style has the tension & t/u lever on the front. The MG machine looks like a Singer too years ago dealers would put their name on machines maybe even under that label there's a Singer sticker on it. They never released what was different about most of the SV machines just that they were different that the standard run of machines. On the front rightside that slotted hole is where the stitch length lever used to be.These are real old machines I think pre-1900 I have a few old 47 style with the stitch length lever but haven't seen a darner like this,there is a 47s70 darner that's on the new style casting.

They are both darning machines used f/repairing clothing & etc.The second one looks like a rebadged Singer. Bob

The 206 is a good machine & just alittle easier to run than the Singers & I have use 207 thread on the 206's b4 they won't sew real heavy. If you look @ the top of this forum there's some pinned info about leather machines. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25239 Bob

Your right you don't need that 133 since you have Brutus which looks identical to our Cowboy 4500& then you have the Seiko which is another good machine. Sew Long, Bob

It's a Darner machine where you pull the material around in the direction you want to sew,they use it for repair large bags,canvas & etc where it doesn't matter what the stitches look like. We had a curtomer in town here that had some they would clean & repair bags for shipping sugar in. It has a jump foot that goes up & down with the needle. Bob

When you thread the bobbincase are you sure your getting it in the slot & under the spring correctly?It's also possible that you need a new bobbincase spring. Bob

Art & Steve are correct in trying to steer you away from this machine,the Touch & Sews have plastic gears that will break when trying to sew heavy.I've replaced gears in 100's of them over the years & most people are just sewing clothing. Get an old Black Singer 15 class with the can type motor on the back they'll sew thinner leather & use up to #69 thread . Bob

There is one model of 111w that has reverse it's a 111G156 & many models of the 211's have reverse but parts are getting harder to get for it,along with the fact that the 111's sew leather better make them a better choice. There's also Consew 226R & Juki 562 that are very much like a 111w.

Tony is right the model# is on the tag,I can't read it but I'd guess it's a 29-4 Bob

Yes, All 29's take the same needles some of the internal parts are different but it makes it nice.It makes it easier for us too when we sell them,some brands have different subclass's the take longer needles. Bob

For sewing webbing & cloth use 135x17 for leather use 135x16 which has a cutting point for#46 nylon use#14,f/#69 use#16 or18,f/#92 use #18 or#20,f/#138#20 or#22

Hello Arno, I will try to find the dealer contact info for a Cowboy Machine in Europe for you. Bob

Ok,you knpow the part that holds the race in follow it over the the right & it looks like a bushing just underneath it is the screw to loosen.

I forgot to mention that I don't know of a repair manual for the 7 class. Bob

Christopher, How much side play does the hook have?The race(the part that holds the hook)has a plate on the backside that sometimes gets old thread & dirt behind it,so you can take out the 2-screws that hold itin & take the screw out of the back that holds the spring & this plate on & clean it out.#2 If there's still alot of play the race can be wornout. #3 looking underneath just to the laft of the hook area you'll see a screw w/a big head on it that goes into a clamp you can loosen this & move the whole race left & right re-tighten the scew as tight as you can get it when your done. Bob

Hello, do you want new or used?

I guess the a first time for everything so here's the pic you wanted. Bob

I have a new one for $49.00 + shpg

Well if a flatbed will work for you & you can get it for under $1,000.00 it might be worth getting because for $2,095.00 +shpg you can buy a brand new Cyl arm machine. Bob

Forget that model of Juki & get the Singer (take your leather along & see how it works)