CowboyBob

Sounds like maybe either you didn't hold your threaf when you first started sewing or it's not threaded correctly & the threajammed up in the hook & knocked the clutch out. So you have to push the the button the on the bed (the one on the right)hold it down & turn the hand wheel backwards until you hear a loud click.Then you should put some oil around the bobbincase to get the jammed piece of thread out. HTH, Bob

It would depend which material is on top,if the leather is on top & you want a nice looking stitch use a leather needle,if the cloth is on top then use the round point needle so it doesn't cut the weave of the cloth. Bob

Yes,the wheel on the side,we can supply you with parts for it. Bob Bob

Adler parts are expensive so if it sews good I'd say that's a great price. Bob

It's a shortarm shoe patcher type of machine with a large bobbin.They will sew the same thickness as a 29K but use a max of 138 thread. Bob

Art is right,it's a 104 & it looks like a 104-64 which has needle feed so it should sew to 3/8" or so depending on the leather.Most parts are still available.If you thread isn't pulling up that's the needle thread,you need to go around the 2nd tension on the side 1& 1/2x so it can grip the tension wheel.What type of thread are you using? Bob

Is this a home or Ind machine?A pic would help.I've never heard of model#124 & have sold Ind. Adlers f/30yrs. Bob

These 29's are a handy machine to have around but were designed to sew 1/4" max for shoe repair.I've heard of people sewing thicker but it will take it's toll on the machine in increased wear.They can use a #69 or 92 thread which is good for wallets,purses & craft type items.Then since it was made for shoe repair it has a small arm to get in the shoe which means it has a small bobbin that will constantly need replacing & last since it was made f/shoe rep were it doesn't matter what it look like it has a top feed the foot has teeth on it to grip the leather & it'll leave marks that will have to be rubbed out if you plan to sell a finished product this might not be the machine for you. Bob

I usually tell people to use #22 f/138 & no this size is too big for most home machines. Bob

WOW John, I just seen this post & have to tell you that's a great looking holster.I sure wished I could sew like that.So I just keep on selling them instead.

There's probably a bootmaker somewhere looking for one. Bob

This is a Singer 153W that has a walking foot,it's basicially a 111w machine w/a cylinder arm,in softer leather it'll sew just under 3/8" & use #138 thread.It looks like it needs an end plate on it you shouldn't run it w/o one,check to see if they have it. Bob

You'd think as big as they are they'd be good for something other than shoes but,I hate to tell you they don't work to good on much else.I guess they don't make a real good consistant looking stitch. As far as being worth something the higher the letter the better,like G is better than F ,K better than G, &K better than G,L better than K Bob

Catskin is right when he says 1/4" thats all Singer designed them for. These 29K51's weren't made for thick material & be careful if you try sewing thick because this model of 29 has small gears in it that'l break real easy & there's no replacements for them(hasn't been for over 30yrs) HTH, Bob

If you don't mind answering one (or two) other question...I found a juki that has a servo motor installed. Am I correct in thinking that that is a speed reducer which you mentioned? Also, how difficult are these machines to set up once i receive it? Sorry to bombard you with questions, and I really appreciate your time! Kristen, No, a speed reducer is added under the bobbin winder & consists of a large & small pulley that reduce the speed approx 3x less than what the motor runs.Some servos do not run slow as others so you might want to try it out b4 buying. There is a servo available with a builtin reducer that works real nice & is better than have an added reducer because you can tilt the machine back w/o hove to take the belt off every time. HTH, Bob

Look up Singer 12W & you'll see the MG machine ,which was originally gloss black & repainted by MG

The SV in the model means special version where Singer made a certain # of machines for a special purpose,this style of 47 is the older style as the newer style has the tension & t/u lever on the front. The MG machine looks like a Singer too years ago dealers would put their name on machines maybe even under that label there's a Singer sticker on it. They never released what was different about most of the SV machines just that they were different that the standard run of machines. On the front rightside that slotted hole is where the stitch length lever used to be.These are real old machines I think pre-1900 I have a few old 47 style with the stitch length lever but haven't seen a darner like this,there is a 47s70 darner that's on the new style casting.

They are both darning machines used f/repairing clothing & etc.The second one looks like a rebadged Singer. Bob

The 206 is a good machine & just alittle easier to run than the Singers & I have use 207 thread on the 206's b4 they won't sew real heavy. If you look @ the top of this forum there's some pinned info about leather machines. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25239 Bob

Your right you don't need that 133 since you have Brutus which looks identical to our Cowboy 4500& then you have the Seiko which is another good machine. Sew Long, Bob

It's a Darner machine where you pull the material around in the direction you want to sew,they use it for repair large bags,canvas & etc where it doesn't matter what the stitches look like. We had a curtomer in town here that had some they would clean & repair bags for shipping sugar in. It has a jump foot that goes up & down with the needle. Bob

When you thread the bobbincase are you sure your getting it in the slot & under the spring correctly?It's also possible that you need a new bobbincase spring. Bob

Art & Steve are correct in trying to steer you away from this machine,the Touch & Sews have plastic gears that will break when trying to sew heavy.I've replaced gears in 100's of them over the years & most people are just sewing clothing. Get an old Black Singer 15 class with the can type motor on the back they'll sew thinner leather & use up to #69 thread . Bob

There is one model of 111w that has reverse it's a 111G156 & many models of the 211's have reverse but parts are getting harder to get for it,along with the fact that the 111's sew leather better make them a better choice. There's also Consew 226R & Juki 562 that are very much like a 111w.

Tony is right the model# is on the tag,I can't read it but I'd guess it's a 29-4 Bob