Treed

Only suggestion it looks like the copper rivets are cut a little long and have some sharp spots.... cut them little shorter and take little more time to get a good round on them....no problems then and more professional look

I totally agree with Dwight and use this for belts that the customer wants to save some money......a good stitched set to loops just has a greater wow factor an makes the belt if done right in my book, which is pretty worn out

Weaver Leather, I think Springfield leather carries it or any local canvas marine shop, many outlets on the internet

I was totally on the wrong page..... I was thinking of a curved cut gun belt and that was what confused me

Great job.....love the older styles

I will depend on what you are making. A holster I will carve and tool first because the backing is not stable enough to tool against. A cell phone case to something similar that I use a hard wood, plastic that the leather is molded over then I tool after the molding is done. When I mold after the tooling the molding will never be as detailed as with out. I invested in a vacuum bag system and it works great for molding after the tooling.

I do some lettering in family names and such on leather goods. I have a bunch of stamps that I used but like most had trouble with and did not care for. I use my computer now printing out a pattern for the name in what ever font that looks the best and let the computer adjust the scale and size to what I need. Trace the pattern and a few cuts and bevels and it is done. Easier than layouts, pressing or stamping letters into the leather for me and gives me a broader scope of lettering to use.

I like and sell mostly good bridle leather belts

It has been a struggle and continues to be in some areas. The best thing is try to find leather workers in your area that you can work with and get help and advise from. The books an videos do a great job but working with some one is the real key. Practice and more practice, pick an area swivel knife cuts, beveling, etc. and keep practicing and perfect that area before moving on. Try to keep your self in one area and get good at it. I usually start new students on geometric s to learn control over the tools, hammer, layout, casing and other aspects of tooling before going into carving. We in leather work are usually our own worst critics. The key for me was the desire to learn it and still keeps me going today. I can tell you that I had no talent at all for the craft and had to learn every aspect, It has taken me much longer than others that I know started out at the same time but I just refused to give up.

look'n good

Great looking cases.....love the distressed look to the finish. My only suggestion is that if using rivets that you glue or sew in a liner to cover them on the inside so as not to cause any damage to the phone. keep up the great work.

Great information, I agree with you. My grandson who is 10 rides with a custom made rope that costs damn near as much at an adult rope. But he is a serious rider that no one will ever stop, goes to schools and wins.

I am doing this full time so I have a lot of hours in the shop when I am here. I like to do two or more of the same items so that allows better use of time and gives me inventory for show. The buckles are some that have been won at rodeos by my family. Thanks for the comments.

Thanks everyone for the comments......they were fun

Summer is over, Rodeos done, Back to the Shop refreshed and ready to kick some a$$. Here are some I just finished this week, a couple of belts, two chest holsters and Samsung S4 cases.

Rodeos are done, back to the shop and just finished a couple of tooled chest holsters

Keep us informed I am interested in how this will work. The concept that you have just doesn't comprehend in this old mind and I am lousy at math. I just don't come up with and inch difference in my mind. I have made a lot of 2 ply belts both straight and curved through the years. My use of the belts I like the curved belts better but no one wants to pay for them. The curved belts have more leather wastage and take more time to cut and people don't want to spend the extra....... The fact is that they want a high quality 2 ply curved belt for the cost of low quality straight cut belt of single ply. The cost of the materials that you are building the belt out of would make the finished belt with labor extremely high. Good luck and keep us informed love to see new ways and thinking.

I have made the chest holsters with both wide and narrow straps. Most of my customers prefer the narrow as they can carry back packs or rifles with sling and they don't ride on top of the holster strap. The weight of the back pack or sling digs the wider strap into the shoulder causing discomfort. Holsters carried for a long period will cause some discomfort, but with the chest type (M7 style) they can be move so easy to relieve the presser points

You knocked it out of the park..... on the bullet pouch the border did you use a lined figure bevler on it for the texture.

I used some old wire shelving and cut them into about 18" lengths. I built a plywood box with door about 36" tall to hold them and cut a small hole in the back for a little ceramic heater. The heater draws air from outside and blows hot air into the box. The temp range is about 110 to 120.... I use it for short periods to heat and set the leather then take the items out and place in-front of a good fan....most drying is done with the fan.

I did the same thing for years, figuring that I was never going to learn to draw. The problem was that everything that I came up with just didn't fir my patterns. I started ordering books and videos and took the time to start practicing and studying. It hasn't been easy but it was not as hard as I figured and will worth the time. I still have a long ways to go but it has been worth it and improved my carving at the same time. Bob Parks book is a good place to start, (hidepounder). Don't under estimate your self, if I can get somewhat of a handle on it then anybody can.

Great Job

I don't have them on the web site.....I do them as a custom order for friends.... I am away from home for next 3 weeks at rodeos and will see if someone can find some pictures and email them to me so I can post or send them to you....

I would recommend a 4/5 0z oil tanned leather.....Leather is soft and supple and will hold up to the riggers that you will experience. This is the leather that I use to make working chaps and chinks for real working cowboys and gives them years of use and abuse. The leather can be stiffened in areas that you want with the use of veg tan overlays that are tooled or decorated. This is the same leather that I use for riggin bags for rodeo cowboys. The bags that all there gear goes in from car to plane to car to behind the chutes back to car. There is nothing more abusive to a bag than being a riggin bag.

The best way to handle this is to find someone with a large tack room full of items..... make patterns from them, the greatest benefit to this is to study the construction techniques that were used.