hidepounder

I agree with the other's comments....I think you are using too much pressure and oversanding as well. Here is a link that explains the method I use on edges... Finishing Edges Hope this helps... Bobby

I'm pretty sure that Weaver sells them. Bobby

I tried the ProCarve and just didn't see where it was helping me. I don't think it held the moisture in the leather any longer than water with Joy dish soap added. While I'm not quite as excited about the Lexol solution as some others are, I do like it and I have to agree with Bruce that my leather stays moist longer....longer than Pro Carve and longer than plain water. I can't help but think that's the Lexol holding moisture in the leather. I'm not sure that if you are wetting your leather and going right to work that you will realize as much benefit from the casing solution, however it certainly will not hurt anything at all. You might achieve an increase in burnish color but probably not as much eaze in cutting as the leather will not contain the same amount of moisture as cased leather will. Bobby

Good looking saddle, Dave, sorry to hear about your customer though. It's nice clean work though, anyone should be proud to own it! Bobby

maybe not rich....just richer!

You are welcome to use it. If you google "buffalo skull line art" you will get lots of material to look at also. Bobby

Great looking shop, Elton! I'm definitely jealous! And an 8'x 8' cutting table?! I'm with Bruce....that's incredible! I love the blueprint drawers too...no more patterns nailed to the walls! WOW! Thanks for sharing..... Bobby

I'm still using Leather New when I clean and soap my saddles and gear. Mostly because that is how I was taught as oppossed to personal experience with other products, but I'm still pleased with the results. bobby

I have been using Ben's casing formula also. I keep it in a big plastic bottle and when I want to use it I pour it in a big pan and dunk my leather just as I did when using water with Joy soap. When I'm finished I pour it into a really wide mouth pitcher that I found and then pour it back into the bottle. I think it makes some difference when cutting tough leather and a big difference when cutting leather that doesn't have a tendency to be sticky. I agree about stropping. I think I strop less. I haven't experienced a big difference in burnish, however I think that is due to the size patterns I've been tooling recently. I suspect when tooling an average size pattern on skirting leather where you can put some "heat" on your tools that there will be a big difference in burnish. I have not seen any impact on finishes either.

Pretty fancy Dave! You guys put in a lot of work on both pieces and it shows! Bobby

Mark, Great job on the case! It looks very professional. When I make these I leave the edges oversized at the gussets so that my sewing machine has more surface to walk on. Then I go back and cut the final size and burnish the edges. I think it makes it a little easier for me to sew. Bobby

I think the general answer to your question is no...that typically does not work, however there is a motorized edge finishing system available....it's on ebay a lot and works on the principle your are thinking of. I can't remember the name of the unit, but someone will jump in and give it to us. I have not ever used it so I can't comment on it. It involves applying a special beeswax compound and running the edge through the burnishing wheel. In my opinion if you are looking for a very highly finished glossy end result you are going to have to do some additional work. Here's a link explaining the process that I use......Finishing Edges I Hope this helps.... Bobby

Nice job Butch! I'll bet they're heavy when fully loaded...that's a lot of ammo! Bobby

Beautiful, David, as all your seats are! I think your designs are great! Bobby

Good looking rig, JW! Bobby

It's good practice to copy any pattern and practice cutting it until you can make it look like the original. Be critical.....compare your work to the original and see where your weaknesses are and concentrate on them first. Meanwhile here are some swivel knife patterns you can practice on. Hope this helps.... Bobby

Hi Paul, I want to tell you that I am impressed with this lesson and am looking forward to the continuing series. You have addressed some important points and misconceptions that are big stumbling blocks for those who decide they want to try to start tooling. This is good stuff! Bobby

I feel your pain, LOL! I have done the same with my machines and find I still need to take a slicker and rub ot the marks when I'm finished sewing. I am resigned to the fact that It's something I just have to do after sewing. Bobby

Good job Storm....I like the oak leaf the best! Bobby

Great job as always, Freak, I like them both! Bobby

I highly recommend "Sheridan Style Carving" by Bob Like wise. It's an excellent book with lots of how to pictures. It is full of information that can be applied to most any floral carving. Hope this helps.... Bobby

arbalet12, Denise is correct....the only tool used on this was a swivel knife. Hope this helps... Bobby

Yes....that would be a head or round knife. However it can be done easily with any sharp, narrow pointed knife. I have a couple that look like paring knives and they work just fine. Wet your leather and then use a pair of dividers to make a line which represents the taper. The taper can gradually narrow into the full width or you can use something round to mark the curve from your scribed line back to the full width....either way. If you have a strap end punch, you can place the heel of one side of the punch on your scribed line and and make the transition cut that way. Then take your knife and cut along the scribed line you made with the dividers to complete the taper. Use a strap end punch or your knife to cut the shape of the tip. Piece of cake! Hope this helps.... Bobby

When I make latigo reins I edge all four sides and then rub the entire rein down with saddle soap. I typically hook one end in my vice and standing back from the bench apply Fiebings yellow soap all over the rein and then with a mitt I made from heavy canvass I rub soap into the rein by starting at the point where the end is in the vice and pulling allong the rein. I do this until the soap is worked well into the rein and the edges get a smooth burnished look (the edges won't really burnish). Then with a dry cloth I continue to rub and polish until the rein is dry. That process should work well with a dog lead. Hope this helps.... Bobby

I use a head knife to cut 99% of everything I do. It is also what I use to skive everything I do so in my opinion it is the ultimate leather cutting tool. There is definitely a learning curve related to using and sharpening, however. Hope this helps... Bobby