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They look terrific! My only comment would be that the exposed backs of the rivets and spots will scratch the finish on the cell phones. Bob

Art, I have removed the "nose" of the inside presser foot on my Adler, so that I can see where I'm sewing. Have used it that way for 8 or 9 years and it really helped me....what I don't know is if there is any down side or hazard in doing this. What are your thoughts about these kind of modifications? Bob

Tom, The most important issue is getting the correct size measurement. This is best done by making a plain belt with about a 1" buckle and putting measurment holes that can be read when the belt is on and buckled. Have the customer put this belt on (through the belt loops) and hook it up where it's comfortable. Then you both can read the measurement. Also at this time, determine where the tip should end...6"?, 7"?...the two of you determine it together. Now use that belt to layout the new belt with....you can't go wrong. I have a 1" wide measuring belt and a 1-1/2" wide measuring belt. Use the one that is closest to the width of the belt the customer is ordering. I've never had a problem with size, regardless of the thickness of the belt. What has become a big issue is the pant style that men and women wear now. It's imperative that the customer knows that the belt will fit based on the pant style they are wearing when measured! My overlap for the buckle usually measures 3" to 3-1/2", my tips are usually 6-1/2" to 7". I carry my lining all the way through from the tip to the end of the fold and skive the fold and the lining accordingly. My belts vary in thickness based on the customers desires from 8 oz to 12 oz. If a belt is going to be exceptionally thick, do the final measuring for the fold and the center hole from the inside. Hope this helps, Bob

I can't speak for any one else, but the way I make rope bags is a long, complicated process and I wouldn't recommend starting out on that type of a project. You don't necessarily have to learn to tool first, you could make one without tooling it....but getting all the pieces put together is more difficult than it looks and accumulating the materials is expensive. In my opinion, you should start out with an easier project. Bob

In my opinion, there is no issue here, ethical or otherwise. It's your product....put your name on it! Putting your name on it just says you're proud of it and anyone who sees it should know that you produced it! In addition, it may someday have more value, because it has your name on it! Look at all the collectables whose values skyrocket because they manufacturers put their name on their product! Not an issue....quit worrying about that 8 ball! Bob

That's funny Ray! I do the same thing. Went and bought some cheap small frames for cutting copper pipe, set each one up with different rouge or different size string. Works like a champ! Bob

Do a Google search for line art, when you find something you like, print it, then reduce or enlarge to the size you need. Easy! Hope this helps, Bob

I agree, Ed, 100%! I find myself changing out the right and left quite frequently, also. As a matter of fact, I have one project I do, where I change out in the middle of the sewing run, to make it easier to produce a nice looking job. Bob

Ray, I don't know if removing the entire hole is necessary. I think I'd just try opening up the front so that you can see in, first. Leave the rest of the foot around the needle just to keep the leather in place. Bob

Spence, I do frames from time to time and have never used anything but Barge on them. It works very well. The frame on the right has a tooled piece of leather on top of ostritch. It's all just glued. Hope this helps! Bob

Ray, I was concerned about modifing my needle presser foot also and finally decided that the worst thing that could happen was that I'd have to buy a new presser foot. Art or someone else may know of a good reason not to do this, but I haven't heard one mentioned yet. I think the purpose of the long foot may be to make it easier for the presser foot to climb on thickening material, but on my machine that function hasen't really been affected. If I'm not mistaken, Troy West said he did the same thing with his new (Toro?). I didn't dream this up....I saw a new machine set up that way in a show in Pomona, CA. I don't remember the brand, it was similar to my Adler so I went for it! Nine years later, I'm still sewing with that modified foot. Hope this helps, Bob

Ed, I've been trying to follow along, but I just can't get my mind around what it is you're trying to do. Is the idea to use a solid rivet without the retainer ring? I'm curious because I just don't see how a rivet like that could have holding strength. Have you seen this done already? I understand not liking the copper or brass. Are you just looking for an alternative means of making an atachment. Would a cap rivet or chicago screw do what you need to do? Also, I don't understand how or why you would dome a solid rivet with a lead anvil ILO steel...... Confused... Bob

I was afraid you were going to tell me that.....I figured if the oscilation could be disabled, someone a lot smarter than me would have made a burisher out of it already! I still think I'm going to get one.

It just takes practice, Ray. I encourage people to get the guide, however, I don't use them. I wanted to be able control the stitching freehand and practiced to the point that I can now do that. When stitching a long straight run I have learned to position my fingers on the machine to act as a guide and this has served me very well. I also took the needle presser foot off...ground the nose off so I could see the needle penetrate the leather and that made a big difference for me. Have fun! Bob

Wow, Brent! That's a stunning rig! I know you had fun making that one! It's the kind that belongs in a show somewhere! Great job! Bob

When the belt sanding module is in place, does it still oscilate? The reason I ask is because is occurred to me that this would be a great tool to run a burnishing wheel on if you could disable the oscilation function. Anyway, I think I'm going to try one....Thanks everybody! Bob

I'm really glad to hear you like it.....that's the one I've been considering! Bob

That's a great tip Bruce. I didn't know the big Pilots were refillable! Do you use their ink or do you refill with alcohol dye?

Please let us know how you like the oscillating sander....I've considered one myself. I'm not familiar with the S-18....sounds like something I need to find out about. So you're not really working the air out when you glue....you're just being thorough....nothing wrong with that! The sander I'm using is an attachment made to go on a grinder motor. It's mounted horizontally with about a three inch wheel on the end so I can run the belt vertically up and down the wheel to get the edge smooth. It sounds like you could do that with yours, unless it has a table in your way, which it probably does. Sounds like the spindle sander will be the trick!...after you finish dusting! Bob

Ed, It came out really well! Great job on the edges!!!!!!!!! Bob

Dennis, Are you using a contact cement like Barge or Masters? If you are, you can use a wide faced hammer, which actually helps the two pieces set...there shouldn't be an "air" issue. Bob I use a staionary belt sander and I have a several sizes of the small round sanding drums made for drills that I mount on my burnishing motor arbor based on my need for small intricate sanding. Bob

That's an interesting thought! I'll bet that tip is just pressed in....could probably be pulled out, the pen refilled with dye and then the tip re-inserted. I might look into that. I also use one of those plastic bottles with a built in applicator for shoe dye. Bob

Mark, I had to run out in the middle of my reply....I had more to tell you. If you buy a knife from Bob Douglas, it will be tuned up nicely...really sharp, however they are expensive! He likes the old Gomph and Rose knives. If you can find a Bill Buchman knife, they are very good also (IMHO). If you will look on ebay, there are always quite a few knives for sale. If cost is an issue, work on your knife and get it sharp. If you're not comfortable with sharpening it, it may be worth your $ to send it to Bob and have him tune it up for you....that way, when you get it back...you'll know what sharp really means, and it will be easier to maintain it. I use to think I knew what sharp was and how to sharpen, until I met Bob and tried his knives...I wasn't getting my knives sharp at at all! I don't know anything about Weaver knives, but Bruce's comment is enough for me! Sounds like you already have it's equivelent. Also, I recommend staying away form stainless. It's good, but not nearly as good as the regular steel knives. If nothing else, call Douglas and pick his brain, he's a great guy and won't steer you wrong! Bob

Mark, That's a new one....but is probably alright. Couple of things...Bob Douglas has a large selection of old used knives. He (or maybe Herb French) removes the shoulder of the blade back about 3/4". Thinning the edge is critical to being able to sharpen and maintain the knife. Your knife would be fine ounce it's tuned up. I've never used a Weaver...but would probably never try one. Bob